Seneca Rocks TR solo spots?
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Looking for a recommendation on good TR solo spots at Seneca. 5.8 and below. Thanks! |
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I would look at the southeast corner. The routes usually top out at the lower broadway ledge which I think you can reach from the east face trail. I've also seen the lower slabs recommended as a TR spot but have never been there. |
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You'll have better luck just soloing routes that are significantly under your limit. Unless you plan to bring gear and build anchors to TR on, there isn't a whole lot of bolted anchor single pitch climbing. If you're looking to rope solo, there are a few spots on the southern end and southeast corner with beefy trees at the base. The Lower Slabs are a great place to top rope, but you'll want static line to build your anchors from the trees above. You could probably have a decent time if you solo'd up Skyline Traverse and then rapped down to the anchors of Ye Gods and Little Fishes, Candy Corner and Drop Zone. That area sees a lot of traffic and also rock fall from the climbers on Skyline, so be careful. |
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For the South Peak: If you can solo the first two pitches of Old Man's then you can TR solo a ton of stuff off of the big trees on the traverse ledge (Prune, Monkey See Monkey Do, Front C, Seneca Days). You can also set a TR on the bolts at the top of Neckpress just at the end of the traverse ledge. If you are comfortable soloing the last pitch of Old Man's then you have a lot more options. You can scramble up to the top of Critter Crack and TR Critter Crack, Crusher Critter, Krispy Critter, and possibly Traffic Jam. If you can find the bolts at the top of Dirty Old Man you can TR both ptiches of that too. Scramble up to the summit and you can TR Alcoa Presents off the summit bolts on the East Face. If you have a 70M rope you can actually reach all the way down to the ground and you can TR Castor, Pollux, and Conn's East Direct as well. It is also easy to set up a TR for Ecstasy JR and the Burn if you hike up to the luncheon ledge and walk through the notch to get to the top of P2 of EJ. From that tree you can TR P2 of EJ and the Burn and if you rap from that tree down to the lower ledge you can TR P1 of EJ and the Burn. As mentioned above, if you are comfortable soloing up Skyline Traverse you can hit Candy Corner and Ye Gods. But if you're not you can also easily TR Bee Sting Corner (and possibly Dufty's Popoff if you have a redirect) from the bolts. North Peak: If you hike up to the top of the North Peak, you can very safely drop a rope on Streptococcus (which is a very manageable 5.9) and some of the other easy routes around it. You could probably also walk over a little further to drop a rope on Desperado (a harder 5.9), but it may require some additional shenanigans. Finally, the Lower Slabs is probably the most accessible area, but you will need more static rope to build anchors and there are fewer quaility routes in the range you're looking for. If you do head down there, definitely check out Scuttle (5.6) and Discrepancy (5.8). |
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Great info all around, thanks for the help! |
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How much static line is really needed for anchors on the Lower Slabs? I'm hoping to get in some TR soloing on the slabs this weekend, and want to be sure I have enough rope. |
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ubu wrote: How much static line is really needed for anchors on the Lower Slabs? I'm hoping to get in some TR soloing on the slabs this weekend, and want to be sure I have enough rope. Some where around 50 feet would get most of them. Moving above the lower slabs is very sketchy. There are a few to the north that’s not bad but the farther south you go the worse it gets. Be very careful. Loose rocks, leaves, pine needles and who knows what else is up there. I would find a partner and get your climb on! Much safer |
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Joe Ray wrote: Bummer, that doesn't sound too promising. As a trad newb I've had a terrible time finding Seneca partners, but guess I'll just have to keep searching. |
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I’ve also had good luck with MP for partners. Did you post in the partner finder forum? |



