First 12a at Smith

I'm trying to break into the grade. I prefer slightly overhung, powerful movement (which I know moderates at Smith are typically lacking in). Any recommendations for a new project? 

Panic Attack.  Listed as 11d here but I think it's every bit of 12a. The extension of Cool Ranch Flavor.

Based on what you said Torrid Zone at the North Point would fit the bill. Short with a few powerful moves with limited feet. The ones already named are also good for breaking into the grade but don't meet your preferences as well as Torrid Zone does.

It's not at Smith but if you are just looking to tick a 12 Angular Motion (First 12 in the Portland area) at Carver is super doable. Kind of a long boulder problem into 15-18 ft of 10+. 

Mike Brady wrote:

It's not at Smith but if you are just looking to tick a 12 Angular Motion (First 12 in the Portland area) at Carver is super doable. Kind of a long boulder problem into 15-18 ft of 10+. 

This line looks awesome, never been to Carver but it's definitely on the list this spring. 

Latin lover

My first 12a @ smith was Heinous Cling, the run-out will keep you moving and you'll be at the chains before you know it! Get it wired and do the full 12c, amazing line. 

Try full Magic Light! 

You may have already  climbed the lower 70% of the route to the 5.11 anchor, and the crux of the route is a powerful sequence just above the lower anchor.

Sam Miller wrote:

Latin lover

lol

I don't know many specific routes, but the shipwreck wall has plenty of 12s that are overhung and not the normal smith style

5 Easy Pieces is a great one for breaking into the grade (At picnic lunch wall).

Alan Zhan wrote:

lol

I don't know many specific routes, but the shipwreck wall has plenty of 12s that are overhung and not the normal smith style

Yeah didnt read the actual post

Agreed that Five Easy Pieces P1 is one of the easier ticks at the grade. Rising Tides on Shipwreck Wall is steep for Smith. Cool Ranch Flavor for convenience. Bolt from the Blue for outstanding quality. There's a few super-steep 12s out at the Zoo that are very juggy and would go quickly for gym climbers. Sorry, but Panic Attack doesn't get 12a credit.

I'm sure, like most people, your tick list doesn't really represent your climbing, but how much 11b, 11c, 11d have you tried? Nothing wrong with picking a long-term project but don't get too caught up in reaching the next number grade without building a solid base. Climbs like Vomit Launch, Bloodshot, Full Overboard, Moondance, etc. are as quality as any 12a in the park and if you climb well on those, the next grade is easily attainable.

Alan Zhan wrote:

lol

I don't know many specific routes, but the shipwreck wall has plenty of 12s that are overhung and not the normal smith style

Does the "lol" mean that Latin Lover is sandbagged? Or not fitting the style I outlined? 

Kevin MP wrote:

Agreed that Five Easy Pieces P1 is one of the easier ticks at the grade. Rising Tides on Shipwreck Wall is steep for Smith. Cool Ranch Flavor for convenience. Bolt from the Blue for outstanding quality. There's a few super-steep 12s out at the Zoo that are very juggy and would go quickly for gym climbers. Sorry, but Panic Attack doesn't get 12a credit.

I'm sure, like most people, your tick list doesn't really represent your climbing, but how much 11b, 11c, 11d have you tried? Nothing wrong with picking a long-term project but don't get too caught up in reaching the next number grade without building a solid base. Climbs like Vomit Launch, Bloodshot, Full Overboard, Moondance, etc. are as quality as any 12a in the park and if you climb well on those, the next grade is easily attainable.

I've climbed Vomit Launch and Bloodshot, haven't redpointed either however. Good point though, I should get those dialed before I move on to harder projects. 

Connor McCafferty wrote:

Does the "lol" mean that Latin Lover is sandbagged? Or not fitting the style I outlined? 

Latin Lover is like the definition of smith style

'artsy' movement from small crimps to small nubbins and pockets on a vertical face.

Majestic Pigeon is blast, techy slab to a powerful roof. For steep powerful climbing, go to The Zoo.

I second Torid Zone

Any updates?? Did u ever manage to send a 12a? Maybe u should try appian way

No Contest at the Marsupials