Five Ten ... Adidas

Ted Pinson wrote:

For all their tech, LS can’t make a good all-arounder like the Anasazi.

*cough* Mythos *cough*

Yeah, Mythos are probably the closest, but they’re not nearly as high performance.  Maybe with a C4 resole they could do.

jg fox wrote:

*cough* Mythos *cough*

ummmm....no

Ted Pinson wrote:

Yeah, Mythos are probably the closest, but they’re not nearly as high performance.  Maybe with a C4 resole they could do.

Yeah it's not like the Mythos has let someone free solo 5.14...*cough* Alex Huber, Kommunist 8b+ *cough*

Ted Pinson wrote:

Yeah, Mythos are probably the closest, but they’re not nearly as high performance.  Maybe with a C4 resole they could do.

I don't know about that.  I have Anasazis and Mythos.  I've climbed some stiff routes in Mythos.  My favorite shoe.

So looking to get some good shoes for overhanging stuff but also not bad for techy stuff.  I was thinking about teams or testarossas.  I just had a pair of Muira’s that I liked but they didn’t even last a season.  Suggestions?

Katana Lace has been used for a huge number of 5.14 trad FA's, climbed a ton of hard sport, and isn't the worst bouldering shoe for some types of rock either.

The point of my comment is that many companies make comparable and possibly better shoes.  Being narrow-minded about the one time you tried that one brand or shoe X years/months ago isn't a good way to form a long term view on the overall market.  Most of Five Ten's currently models are very old and have been very unchanged at a time when most other companies have moved to split soles, more advanced tension and forefoot support, and can actually design a pull strap.  I'd love to see Adidas revamp some of the Five Ten line.  I don't see how they could do harm.

Hiangle

NorCalNomad wrote:

Yeah it's not like the Mythos has let someone free solo 5.14...*cough* Alex Huber, Kommunist 8b+ *cough*

How many 5.15s have been climbed in them? ;)

Karsten, that’s exactly why some people prefer Five Ten...they don’t want gimmicky bullshit.  Five Ten has kept those models by popular demand because people get pissed and start protest campaigns when they discontinue them.  Think about what LS’s most popular shoes are...Miuras (one of their oldest models), Solutions (going on what...10 years now?), Testarossas, etc.

Jeremiah Nason wrote:

So looking to get some good shoes for overhanging stuff but also not bad for techy stuff.  I was thinking about teams or testarossas.  I just had a pair of Muira’s that I liked but they didn’t even last a season.  Suggestions?

which part of your murias fell apart first?

vapor laces ^^  they're kinda like a testarossa but with a bigger toehook patch.    or instinct laces.. enough stiffness to be techy..... though if you climb a lot of small pocketfeet the testarossa might be a better choice..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOfYNX82_xw 

Talking 'bout shoes. Here's a vid:

Results: http://www.rockmasterfestival.com/2016/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/General-result-M-E-N-lead1.pdf

JIC, he was using different make/model shoes for left/right feet not for a purpose. He had no other option but wear on the only left and the only right shoe he had.

It does not really matter what you wear on. Climbing is a sport of skill. The best shoes in the World would add nothing to your climbing (OK, OK, it's a bit too strong proposition. The best shoes in the World will definitely add some style to your climbing outfit which is of a huge importance).

Pavel Burov wrote:

Talking 'bout shoes. Here's a vid:

Results: http://www.rockmasterfestival.com/2016/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/General-result-M-E-N-lead1.pdfJIC, he was using different make/model shoes for left/right feet not for a purpose. He had no other option but wear on the only left and the only right shoe he had.

It does not really matter what you wear on. Climbing is a sport of skill. The best shoes in the World would add nothing to your climbing (OK, OK, it's a bit too strong proposition. The best shoes in the World will definitely add some style to your climbing outfit which is of a huge importance).

but then again... world cup routes generally are not about grade pushing your limit.... but more about route reading and flash ability... most of them could be graded in the 7a-8b range..

Yep. Personally I don't like I do love 5.10 Quantums and 5.12 Anasazi VCS. My feet are shaped by the former shoes.

Ted Pinson wrote:

For all their tech, LS can’t make a good all-arounder like the Anasazi.

Miura velcro, Miura lace up, katanas...next question please. 

Ted Pinson wrote:

How many 5.15s have been climbed in them? ;)

Karsten, that’s exactly why some people prefer Five Ten...they don’t want gimmicky bullshit.  Five Ten has kept those models by popular demand because people get pissed and start protest campaigns when they discontinue them.  Think about what LS’s most popular shoes are...Miuras (one of their oldest models), Solutions (going on what...10 years now?), Testarossas, etc.

And how many people will ever actually climb 5.14, nevermind 5.15

J Squared wrote:

which part of your murias fell apart first?

vapor laces ^^  they're kinda like a testarossa but with a bigger toehook patch.    or instinct laces.. enough stiffness to be techy..... though if you climb a lot of small pocketfeet the testarossa might be a better choice..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOfYNX82_xw 

Both my toes blew out and I climb on them maybe 3 times a month and didn’t last a season :\ vapor laces sound good but I was looking testarossas bc I live in the south and most things overhanging so they seem like the best choice for that regard.  Thinking about getting them and a pair of skwamas for the more overall shoe and save testies for when I need them.

from what i've seen on other peoples feet... skwamas end up looking way more downturned at the toes than testas when worn..

frank minunni wrote:

And how many people will ever actually climb 5.14, nevermind 5.15

Hahahah not me. ;)  

Ted Pinson wrote:

Yeah, Mythos are probably the closest, but they’re not nearly as high performance.  Maybe with a C4 resole they could do.

Oh man, Mythos with C4 is my jam. Best shoes ever when you do that (for super wide Sasquatch feet but normal heel size).

J Squared wrote:

from what i've seen on other peoples feet... skwamas end up looking way more downturned at the toes than testas when worn..

Depends on sizing. I own both in 39.5 and the testes do knuckle my toes more aggressively once broken in. Skwama toe box stretches a lot, testes don’t. 

If you’re on a rock that requires precise edging with sensitivity, toeing in on pockets and no/minor toe hooking the testes are amazing. 

If you’re on a higher friction rock where “smedging” is fine or that relies heavily on toe hooks skwamas are great. I do feel they loose a lot of precision as they stretch, I don’t use them if that is needed. 

Actually did a lowly 11b slab route last year that required toeing in hard on a very small nub. Literally could not make that move in the well used skawama. Put on testes, the sharp point let me get more of the rubber into that nub, move went fine. Tried it a few more times with the skwama, no dice. Tried it with my next pair with sharper edges, still no dice. Only went with testes and it went easy in them.

If I had the fingers to crimp a 1/2 pad edge hard in a low lock off the shoes wouldn’t matter at all. I have weak fingers. Shoes matter the weaker your fingers are.