Capitol Peak Winter Ascent

Does anyone want to rope up and do an ascent of the northwest ridge in the next two weeks. Looking to do this Wednesday-Thursday as that is somehow my weekend now (thanks bossman)

Doing that route in winter, let alone in 2 days would be extremely ambitious.

The two factors to conquer are ;

1. A long approach in a valley to the East of a big ridge. Even Elk have difficulty walking in it.

2. Elk Range is the home of large amounts of loose rock. IE. Colorado boat ride down the mountain.

Or did you mean NE Ridge ? You could likely lessen #2.

Sounds like an adventure. I hope you've got skis, as mentioned above the approach may be one of the harder parts! But hey, at least it's officially spring now.

i would be curious to see if there is ice on the start of pitch 2, as it is usually wet in summer.

have you done many other routes that are similar in terms of length, commitment, difficulty, altitude, etc?  your profile doesn't really list any similar climbs.  i think most folks would be pretty hesitant to undertake this sort of route with some random internet guy.

Ah... Spring Post Holing season. Jim Wise enjoying some.

Ice on pitch 2 going down to approach route tomorrow. Freeze - thaw should ensure rocks will follow for months.

To slim I’ve climbed 6000m+ peaks and lead around 5.9/10 outside. I’m sure a 4th class climb at 14k would be reasonable for me

good to know.  i think that info will help you land more potential partners.

Steve Phillips wrote:

To slim I’ve climbed 6000m+ peaks and lead around 5.9/10 outside. I’m sure a 4th class climb at 14k would be reasonable for me

4th class scramble is the NE Ridge (standard route across the knife edge). Your original post says NW Ridge (did you mean NW Buttress???) goes at 5.9

Might have better luck getting partners if you straighten out your route description too.

a winter ascent of the NWB would be pretty heinous.  in a lot of ways.

i think people are asking questions because it seems like you kind of shotgun out a bunch of bold ideas but don't seem to do any research.  for example not knowing that the road to mt adams would be closed pretty far back.  or not really doing the research on the feasibility of a winter approach to forbidden.  or not realizing that may is early for the bugaboos.  or a "weekend jaunt up something easy/moderate like pigeon spire or NE Ridge on bugaboo" on president's day weekend (lolz). or "I’m a relatively new leader but wouldn’t be opposed to trying the lower portion of the exum as well".  ambition can only get you so far. 

like others have said, there is a significant difference between a fun trek up a 6000m peak and doing a winter ascent of a pretty big north facing technical wall at a moderately high altitude.

Steve Phillips wrote:

Does anyone want to rope up and do an ascent of the northwest ridge in the next two weeks. 

Steve Phillips wrote:

To slim I’ve climbed 6000m+ peaks and lead around 5.9/10 outside. I’m sure a 4th class climb at 14k would be reasonable for me

These quotes together are great.

The NE ridge (1-2 days) saw a fair bit of play last winter with a low snowpack. At least 7 or so summits by that route. Not sure how much play it's seen so far this spring, but I'd imagine the skiers are staying away due to lack of coverage.

Steve Phillips wrote:

Looking for a reliable partner to climb with from June 20-24. Was hoping to do Owen Spaulding the first day and then do the exum Ridge the following day.

Steve Phillips wrote:

I have June 20-24 off. Climbed disappointment last May and would like to climb [Liberty Ridge].

Steve Phillips wrote:

Looking for a partner to put up some routes in the bugaboos from June 20-24.

Gonna be a busy couple of days for you, my man.

I have those days off, so I put out 3-4 separate forums as sort of a “lottery”. First person to answer/confirm would be the trip I book. Since I put those forums up, I already have found a partner for teton. As far as capitol peak, I appreciate the constructive criticism(I’m just looking for a partner, but advice whether not to do it or not). I should have been much more specific; I meant to include that I intend to do the NE ridge but if snow covers gonna be that horrible then it’s out the window! Now I know to book my ticket in July as opposed to March . Being on the east coast means I have to meticulously plan ahead so yes I had to shoot out a BUNCH of ideas and then fill it up from that point. Also sucks that my weekends are Wednesday and Thursday. 

Sam Sala wrote:

4th class scramble is the NE Ridge (standard route across the knife edge). Your original post says NW Ridge (did you mean NW Buttress???) goes at 5.9

Might have better luck getting partners if you straighten out your route description too.

Lol I def meant NE “w” and “e” are neighbors on the keyboard 

Ryan Marsters wrote:

These quotes together are great.

The NE ridge (1-2 days) saw a fair bit of play last winter with a low snowpack. At least 7 or so summits by that route. Not sure how much play it's seen so far this spring, but I'd imagine the skiers are staying away due to lack of coverage.

E and W are close neighbors on the keyboard sorry for the confusion. Gonna have to wait til July or so 

We're just getting a little sick of hearing of people dying on Capitol Peak. I think 4 or 5 died last year on it. 

Seems to be the latest siren. The Bell Cord on the Maroon Bells used to get all the accidents. Millennials must not be snow climbers.

David Pneuman wrote:

We're just getting a little sick of hearing of people dying on Capitol Peak. I think 4 or 5 died last year on it. 

Seems to be the latest siren. The Bell Cord on the Maroon Bells used to get all the accidents. Millennials must not be snow climbers.

I certainly don’t want to die that’s for sure. From different forums I read it seemed as though it was doable in the winter time. Were all of these deaths during winter?

9 fatalities in 17 years, 5 in 2017 - those 5 were within 6 weeks of each other. 

I get that it's a 4th class peak @ 14k, but it should be approached with respect, as the rock quality totally blows,  routefinding seems less than straightforward, and people seem to be making mistakes after a long day or two.

Peaks....why.....

David Pneuman wrote:

We're just getting a little sick of hearing of people dying on Capitol Peak. I think 4 or 5 died last year on it. 

Seems to be the latest siren. The Bell Cord on the Maroon Bells used to get all the accidents. Millennials must not be snow climbers.

I lol'd at the last line.