Personal anchoring

What is everyone's preferred method of personal anchoring upon sending a route - either for setting a top rope or cleaning a route via rappel/lowering?

Personally, I don't find anything wrong with using two opposing longer quickdraws. Also, bear in mind that this is posted in "Sport climbing" section.

1/10

besides, the answer is obviously the petzl dual connect adjust made from 11mm ultradynamic super rope backed up with a metolius pas 22 for quadruple redundancy.

Chris Blatchley wrote:

B SK wrote:

not sure was this sarcasm or re-definition of "bomber-safe"? 

Combination of your recent membership and the rather lets-kick-dead-horse topic made him consider you a troll. This resulted in a rather sarcastic reply.

Black Diamonds Alpine PAS is pretty nice. It’s lightweight to bring up with you. I primarily used it for trad but I for sure bring it up sport routes with me now as well when I plan on cleaning them. 

right. anyway, i was recently introduced to rock climbing (definitely not a troll) and i reckon all sports evolve through the time so do opinions and standards. that being said, i guess it is not the end of the world if someone asks a fresh opinion.

back to the topic: so, 2 quickdraws are safe after all?

Sheesh. They get bored, OP, don't mind them, they're usually helpful eventually. Sometimes.

We have a couple draws made up of longer dogbones, with locking steel ovals on one end for top roping. They work rather nicely, and don't distribute a bunch of aluminum in the rope.

For a pas for cleaning, I have a tied Purcell (doubles as an ascender) that I use. 

And yes, the past thing is pretty common. The connect is nice, too. Watch what partners use, and ask how it works. You'll get good info, and perhaps a chance to try it out!

As a newer climber, whatever you choose, practice until you really have it down, and not just one way. Even if you intend to always lower, make sure you can clean and set up to rap, also. It's easy to practice, unweighted, you can set up anywhere. Then, weighted, but where there are no consequences.

Best, OLH

B SK wrote:

right. anyway, i was recently introduced to rock climbing (definitely not a troll) and i reckon all sports evolve through the time so do opinions and standards. that being said, i guess it is not the end of the world if someone asks a fresh opinion.

back to the topic: so, 2 quickdraws are safe after all?

The quickdraws are only used to support yourself while you pull slack through lowering rings, tie a figure eight on a bite, and clip back into the rope. Then you have belayer take in slack so you can test your eight on a bite and carabiner to confirm good for lowering. Once confirmed, you can untie your original eight, remove quickdraws, and lower. 

Since you are never untied from the rope throughout the whole process, it is fine that you are using a or multiple quickdraws.

The rope or two slings/draws.  Learn to clean without untying. ^^^

https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5ipkouk0id07cgc3dqks4fljnsgnx6

BrokenChairs BrettC wrote:

The rope or two slings/draws.  Learn to clean without untying. ^^^

https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5ipkouk0id07cgc3dqks4fljnsgnx6

Yeah, make this your go to. But, learn to safely thread a rope through, also, or skip cleaning and send someone experienced up. There are surprises at anchors, sometimes! 

Best, OLH

I currently use a PAS 22.  Recently I did start to carry and use a long sling  as I felt it offered me other options however I found it a hassle to adjust to the correct length at an abseil point (this is what I like about the PAS 22).  I also use a couple of quick draws as I like to be VERY safe esp if I need to re-thread the rope, this part of a climb always freaks me out a bit.

I intend to get the Petzl Connect Adjust very shortly as that seems so easy to use, and I'll use that in combo with the PAS22 or quick draws.  Overkill I know, but it takes seconds to add some redundancy and for me it works...

In regards to joining two quick draws together (i.e. carabiner clipped to a carabiner) I noticed in a video by Magnus Midtbø I saw yesterday that he had done just that, and I guess he knows what he's doing.

BTW, maybe it's a cultural thing (I'm from Australia) but I find the sarcasm on this site quite astonishing.  It appears that there's a fair number of people who have no desire to be helpful at all but just want to have a go at others.  Either that or I'm not getting the humour.  Again, maybe it's a cultural thing???

I use a couple steel lockers and an Omnisling, often with doubled QDs for a backup.  

Clip into the steel carabiners that are at the anchor, remove whatever gear was left on there. Get lowered. If there aren't any steel on the top of the sport route? I'll make sure the extras in my pack get up there some how.

Carl Schneider wrote:

BTW, maybe it's a cultural thing (I'm from Australia) but I find the sarcasm on this site quite astonishing.  It appears that there's a fair number of people who have no desire to be helpful at all but just want to have a go at others.  Either that or I'm not getting the humour.  Again, maybe it's a cultural thing???

Haha! I thought taking the piss was the Australian national pastime!

Carl Schneider wrote:

BTW, maybe it's a cultural thing (I'm from Australia) but I find the sarcasm on this site quite astonishing.  It appears that there's a fair number of people who have no desire to be helpful at all but just want to have a go at others.  Either that or I'm not getting the humour.  Again, maybe it's a cultural thing???

I doubt that it's unique to the USA and would imagine it even happens on Australian forums. Here's the equation that explains it:

I use a Metolius PAS 22. It works great for me. 

This is what I use for sport climbing where I don't expected to be above the anchor nor belaying at it either. I use one 120cm dyneema. The middle of the sling is attached to my belay loop via overhand knot instead of girth hitch, so the sling isn't cinched down on the belay loop. This makes it easier to inspect to the sling loop and belay loop. Each end of the sling has a clove hitched non locker. This setup gives me a little less than two feet of extension which I find just right for most sport routes. I prefer having two equal PAS points when cleaning anchors like the one below. If all your weight is on a single rap ring, I find it very difficult to remove the locker that's under the ring. By having two equal PAS points, if I shift to the right, it puts most of my weight onto the left rap ring, allowing me to remove the right side locker. Then I do the vice versa to remove the left locker.

The middle of the sling is attached to my belay loop via overhand knot instead of girth hitch, so the sling isn't cinched down on the belay loop.

I'm having a hard time picturing this. Surely you don't mean you just tie an over hand knot onto the belay loop, right? Overhand on a bite with a 'biner to attach to the belay loop?

simplyput . wrote:

The middle of the sling is attached to my belay loop via overhand knot instead of girth hitch, so the sling isn't cinched down on the belay loop.

I'm having a hard time picturing this. Surely you don't mean you just tie an over hand knot onto the belay loop, right? Overhand on a bite with a 'biner to attach to the belay loop?

I'm guessing that's referring to the method of taking a double-length sling, passing it through your belay loop, doubling the ends up, and tying an overhand knot.. This give you two loops to use as personal tethers, and 2 fixed loops going through your belay loop, without cinching onto it like a girth hitch would.

I thought I had saved a picture of this, but I can't find it right now. (I believe it was posted by John Long, but I could be mistaken.)

^ that makes more sense. Thanks.

Nate Tastic wrote:

Since we're being on our best sarcasm free behavior, for our friend the Ozzie, I'll add the Sterling Chain Reactor to the list of PAS possibilities. 

Only acceptable if worn in the gym.  

Anchors that have been fooling would be tradsters and personal anchor enthusiasts for years here in WA. What to make of this... Personal anchor with nylon to dyneema!!!!  Oh the madness.  I think he should have used a locker on the blue, super sketch.  

Just trying to keep things in check here for Nate.