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Valley routes that 'eat gear'

Original Post
Kevin Crum · · Oakdale · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 56

What are your thoughts on routes that are hungry for pro in the valley?  Im looking to build a nice list over any grade range that, at the very least, has the pro where it counts -- but it would be nice to find a route that is famished and starving for pro.  

Any size hair thin to chimney wide.

Mikekd · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) and Bishops Terrace (5.8) comes to mind first. 

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 151

The  Grack Center (5.6) if you wanted you could put a .5 to 2.0 Camelot every 2 feet.... And the second pitch might actually eat your gear if not careful its a deep parallel sided crack..

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Are you looking/hoping to score free gear :-P

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

The Rostrum has a reputation for eating (and not returning) big cams.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Kevin Crum wrote:

What are your thoughts on routes that are hungry for pro in the valley?  Im looking to build a nice list over any grade range that, at the very least, has the pro where it counts -- but it would be nice to find a route that is famished and starving for pro.  

Any size hair thin to chimney wide.

Probably too many to list - not counting the old school friction routes on GPA, Royal Arches, etc. or the hard aid walls.

Ellis L · · Truckee · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 156

Jam Crack, Mr. Natural, Manana 

Alex Souza · · Bishop, CA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 31

Sherries Crack 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Is this a troll?

All of the crack routes eat pro.

Slab climbs, not so much.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

The Bachar-Yerian 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

How about:

You Asked for It

Body and Soul

Blackout

Nerve Wrack Point

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Big Boys Don't Cry lol.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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