Merlin #8

Got a chance to climb on it with one short offwidth that finishes in a squeeze today.  The spring tension is definitely noticeably more than a BD #6 when in a crack.  This thing sticks quite well even when close to tipped.  Took a small takeish fall on lead solo with it too.  Probably had a foot or so of slack in the system (was probably slightly less than a .1 FF but I'm sure took more than a KN of force) as i botched a move at the low end of the crux (the crux section is this flare that is just shy of full squeeze for me).  Held no big deal.....didn't budge even though I actually had it a few degrees out of the direction of fall.  Stem seems to be the perfect steel for this application as it bent while holding my weight but went right back to dead center once weight was off it.  Still should certainly aim for getting that stem in the direction of fall of course though.  If I had a belayer today I would have taken it on this spooky cave chimney climb where I would have been able to push it for days but alas not this week.

Christopher Smith wrote:

They are the equivalent of the BD 5 and 6....only really handy compared to C4s if you really feel you like using those extendable slings over carrying a few extra alpine draws (which frankly I hardly ever extend stuff in the wide anyway).

I got to handle the dmm prototypes last fall and they are noticeably lighter than the bd cams, and the dmm 8 had a far lower minimum range than the bd 6 does

Mike Byrnes wrote:

I got to handle the dmm prototypes last fall and they are noticeably lighter than the bd cams, and the dmm 8 had a far lower minimum range than the bd 6 does

I really despise the lack of a thumb loop on cams personally....I've tried friends DMMs before and I just felt way more fumbly with them.  I don't really mind draggin extra weight up a wall anyway and frankly IMO weight matters less when you are shoving good portions of your whole body in a crack.  YMMV

Merlin #8, Excalibur and R & D wizard's book of spells...

Merlin #8

Does the stem flop at all under the weight of the cam's head like the bigger metolius mastercams or is it solid? The stem looks pretty thin 

- MERLIN ROCK GEAR Merlin #10 (2018) Serial Number 0002
- original #6, #8 and #10 prototype lobes
- 3 generations of control horns for the #8
-  2 control horns for the #10
 - 1 #8 stem end (I-beam part)
 - Steve Byrne's Chouinard biner for scale ;-)

Today I received a Merlin #10 only 2 days after Erik shipped it. As far as communication goes he’s probably the best seller I’ve dealt with and the cam is absolute quality work!! It’s easy to look at a tape measure and see how big it will be, but holding the cam is a huge difference. For how large it is I would have never expected it to be so light. With all of that being said the stem is supper skinny and doesn’t flop around at all. Super stoked to use it next weekend!

Justin, when did you order yours originally?

Cole D wrote: Justin, when did you order yours originally?

I ordered it on January 8th so the three month turn around is pretty spot on. Erick is super communicative and answers any questions you have quick as well. I’ll definitely be in touch to get some other sizes. 

It cost me $353 after taxes and shipping to Monrovia, CA. Well worth the price if you enjoy suffering.

Well I finally made a fix for the one complaint I have about the Merlin, the trigger lock.  I wish it was good but it just doesn't work, at least with mine it unlocks at the slightest bump which makes it especially useless when you are flailing in a chicken wing.  Thankfully all it takes is some paracord.  It's a little tricky to remove one handed but not impossible, especially if you brace the lobes against your leg to take pressure off the trigger.

I have two complaints:

1. The trigger lock (super difficult to engage, but fortunately easy to release). I guess I have it wearing out completely to look forward to...

2. The trigger. Seriously only big enough for two fingers. There's a LOT of spring tension in this puppy. BD and VG large cam trigger bars let you wrap a full four fingers around them... Wish the Merlin was that way.

Other than that, this cam is great!

abandon moderation wrote:

I had the same thing happen with mine; used to lock well, now it pops open. The problem appears to be that the little metal lip inside the trigger lock got worn/smashed off. I can't say if it happened from normal use unlocking it a bunch of times, or if it got mashed open while thrutching up a chimney.

Unfortunately, I don't think the trigger is really replaceable. If it was made out of steel instead of aluminum, maybe it wouldn't be a problem...

I think I might see if I can "fix" it by filing down the inside of the trigger lock, otherwise your solution looks like it will work.

Honestly it never worked amazingly for me.  It was definitely a bit better when new but basically by the time I actually used it on a climb it had already worn enough from playing with it (I'm ADHD and really like to fiddle with things) that the slightest touch set it off like a mousetrap.

Took my first fall on my #8 this last weekend.

Dunder . wrote: Took my first fall on my #8 this last weekend.

r u ded

Dunder . wrote: Took my first fall on my #8 this last weekend.

Interested to hear the details as I'm also looking at getting one. 

Jon Hillis wrote:

r u ded

He might very well be, it’s been 36 minutes since the post.

Any chance anyone wants to sell theirs?   

TaylorP wrote: Any chance anyone wants to sell theirs?   

Erik might be willing to let one of his go. Probably only cost you $300

It was the first piece on a short route, maybe 50' at 9+/10a or so. The actual technical crux of the line was about 15' up with a changing of technique, wide right facing corner to wide flake style. Cam placement was textbook, foot or so below my waist. Crimper edge that I wanted was just out of reach so I sacrificed technique out of desperation. I found myself hanging a few feet below it a second later. It did it job and kept me off the ground. Lowered and started the struggle over again, this time clipping the chains.