Looking for Sport in a 6 hour drive from DC for my group.

I have a group of guys that I want to take sport climbing for a guys four day trip. The thing is that they all climb up to about 5.10b/c sport 5.11b TR in the gym.  I keep hearing that NRG is not great for first timers.  Is there a place within a 6 hour drive (RRG is too far) that has good 5.7-5.10b/c leading?  I've been outdoor sport climbing out west in CO/AZ/CA.  Just haven't been in this area climbing.  Someone mentioned Pilot Mountain in NC. Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

Birdsboro in PA is alright. Or just buy a guidebook and go for it at the NRG

Wow, there are a ton of routes there.  I'll have to give that a look.  Not too far.

Birdsboro is pretty chossy. It's up to you whether that's a dealbreaker, but you'd have to be insane to climb there without a helmet.

If I were you I'd go to Safe Harbor instead. Still plenty of routes, and better quality rock.

I think the main reason Birdsboro is more popular than Safe Harbor is that it's closer to Philadelphia/NYC. But if you're coming from DC, Safe Harbor is closer.

If you go to Safe Harbor, be sure to check out the Safe Harbor Website in addition to what's on MP; there's a free guidebook which you can download in PDF form to your phone.

That said, I am skeptical of what you've heard, that NRG isn't good for first-timers. While I've never been to NRG, there are plenty of routes your friends could get on in NRG, probably more than you'd find in either Safe Harbor OR Birdsboro, since those are less developed areas. Do the people who say the NRG isn't good for first-timers say why?

David Kerkeslager wrote:

That said, I am skeptical of what you've heard, that NRG isn't good for first-timers. While I've never been to NRG, there are plenty of routes your friends could get on in NRG, probably more than you'd find in either Safe Harbor OR Birdsboro, since those are less developed areas. Do the people who say the NRG isn't good for first-timers say why?

I was curious about this as well. And exactly what does "first timer" mean in this context?

I think you should reconsider the New! There are plenty of beginner friendly sport routes there. Maybe check out Bubba City and Summersville Lake.

NRG can certainly accommodate a group of guys who lead 5.10b/c on a 4-day trip.

You will end up going to some of these crags:  Summersville lake (Long Wall, Orange Oswald, Gun Wall), Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall, Beer Wall at Bubba City, Butcher's Branch at Kaymoor, The Other Place and/or Area 51, or Endless Wall.

Whippoorwill at Summersville lake has plenty of moderates that fall in your range as long as you are going when the lake level is down. Sandstonia an Bubba City is also a pretty moderate area as well. I started climbing at the NRG in the early 90s so the thing that it’s not for beginners is kind of bull. 

NRG is a choss pile. everyone should just go to RRG

Safe harbor is stupid. Birdsboro isn’t chossy, just sporting. My advice is to pony up and go to the new or if you don’t feel comfortable go to birdsboro. Safe harbor is one of the most heinous and dumb spots ever.  

Your group can definitely do 4 days at the New. Everyone says it's better if you are climbing 11+ (which is probably true) but I climb 10s and always have a great time!

The New has many more routes in your range than it used to. You’d be an idiot to take a road trip to PA for sport climbing when you could go to the New. This is not a difficult choice.

So the first idea was to go to the NRG.  I have a boat and was going to post up at summersville lake so we could hang out on the lake after climbing.  I guess we will just do the New.  What's the best place to visit down there for newbies?  I will buy a guidebook soon.

You could hang on the boat while climbing at Summersville lake. Check out Orange Oswald wall. Areas not accesibleby boat....check out Bubba City

That was the thought.  Try some DWS just for fun.

Thanks for all the suggestions.  We're gonna stick with NRG but now I have some closer spots to check out for a weekend trip.  You guys Rock!!! (pun intended)

TaylorP wrote:

Your group can definitely do 4 days at the New. Everyone says it's better if you are climbing 11+ (which is probably true) but I climb 10s and always have a great time!

Everywhere is better if you climb 5.11+ though.

The New isn't all that friendly for "beginners" but leading 5.10+ sport is not exactly what I call a beginner.  Guys leading 5.10 will have plenty of routes to do at the New - many times more than enough for a 4 day trip.  Now 5.7s and 8s sport are going to be few and far between.

Jake Jones wrote:

Here's my input on the subject.  I'm not a local there, but I'm about as close as one can get without actually living there.  The stated range was 5.7 - 5.10b/c.  Are there plenty of routes there in that range?  Yes.  But the bulk of them are in the upper end of that range, mostly in the 10s.  Not much in the way of 5.7 and 5.8 bolted lines- and if you want to climb at an area that has these lines, be prepared to get up at the crack of dawn, force feed and drag your tired ass to the crag or wait in line behind the neon-clad shitshow for half the day whilst wading through a sea of hammocks, dogs that might be friendly, might not, leashed and unleashed, Clif Bar wrappers and packs and gear strewn about the trail, blocking the way.  

I don't know what each person in this group climbs, but if the expectation is to warm up or have a ball on grades below the top end of the stated range of 5.10b/c, then NRG won't be that conducive to that.  Not only that, There aren't that many areas with that complete grade range. In fact, there are hardly any.  Can it be done?  Sure.  Will it be a gleeful cornucopia of bolted beginner goodness?  No.

This is what I have heard in the past.  We were planning on a weekday trip so we would hopefully avoid the weekend warriors.

Chris Rice wrote:

The New isn't all that friendly for "beginners" but leading 5.10+ sport is not exactly what I call a beginner.  Guys leading 5.10 will have plenty of routes to do at the New - many times more than enough for a 4 day trip.  Now 5.7s and 8s sport are going to be few and far between.

By beginner I mean outdoor beginner.  I remember leading my first outdoor route was a little more nerve racking than in the gym for some reason.

Jake Jones wrote:

First obvious choice for the full grade range is Summersville- particularly the Long Wall, Narcissus Cave, and Orange Oswald areas.  If you go here, go early.  These routes are pretty good for the grade range, and so lines start fast.

Second choice is Bubba City.  In my opinion, the really good routes here are few and far between. The stuff that's in your grade range has some classics though.  Same as Summersville.  Get up super early and get your butt out there or risk waiting in line and all the great things that come with a crag full of bolted beginner lines and moderates.

Third choice is Southside crags- Area 51, etc.  The routes in that range will be fewer and further between, but it's a good hike in, so you won't have to get up balls early and there won't be as many folks there.  Trade off.

Fourth choice is the first couple buttresses at Upper Meadow, which is across the river from Southside crags.  Again, not a ton of options, but enough to keep your crew busy for a day.  Getting more popular each season, so a marginally early start is prudent.

If it's not cold, and particularly if it's a warmer day, Kaymoor is hard to beat.  The approach is meh- and most of the routes there that are in your range are in the low 10s.

Also, and I hate to suggest this, but for a good variation day, there is Bridge Buttress and Junkyard wall.  Not many bolted lines, but top-accessible, if you want to try your hand at cracks (no pun intended) but can't/don't want to lead on gear.  Please be courteous here, as both areas are frequented by guides and people that want to lead those lines quite often.

But the whole place kind of sucks.  It rains a lot and there's tons of bugs and spiders.  You should add a day to your trip and head to the Red.

If you need a guidebook, and haven't purchased one, please consider patronizing the local gear shop and picking up one there.  They are also super friendly and can help you out with beta on places to climb as well.

Thanks Jake, very helpful.

Jake, what about Franklin Gorge, Reeds Creek, or Smokehole as a "intro to outdoor climbing" spot?  These spots are 2 hours closer to DC.  I haven't been to any of them but I have seen what happens to sandstonia on a weekend.