Mountain Project Logo

Homemade auto belay, Rockn and Jamn North, approx 2006.

Original Post
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

So I'm trying to remember a rig I saw one time. I think it had a cinch with a swivel that hooked up to a belay loop. When you fall, it simply caught and you had to pull the handle of the cinch to rap down. 

It wasn't just a fixed line ala mini/micro Trax style. It was very smooth and reliable. I bet it got pulled since it was not an approved use in a commercial setting.

I'd love to recreate the rig on my backyard tree of pain. 

Has anyone else seen this and remember it better than me?

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

A friend of mine fell to his backup knot TR soloing with the cinch. Once it wears out a bit the rope will slide through under tension and can result in catastrophic failure, what a peice of garbage that should have been recalled. Btw I don't think this aspect of the design has changed on the Vergo. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
DrRockso wrote:

A friend of mine fell to his backup knot TR soloing with the cinch. Once it wears out a bit the rope will slide through under tension and can result in catastrophic failure, what a peice of garbage that should have been recalled. Btw I don't think this aspect of the design has changed on the Vergo. 

Whatever this design was, would work with another device. I'm talking about a very specific rig that was unlike what you are envisioning. I only mentioned the cinch to hopefully jog someone's memory.

This thing was only up a couple days. Was a super interesting rig. I would love to see it again.

This isn't a cinch thread. I don't use them, don't trust them, and won't be incorporating one into anything.

brianszero · · Rogers, Ky · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 21

PETZL MAKES A SWIVAL

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

I remember this. there was a long PVC pipe mounted next to the end of the wall. I talked to the (then) owner about it. Unfortunately, I never got a full explanation of the mechanism. I think the idea was to have an auto-braking function so you weren't lowered to the ground if you came off. This would allow you to work hard sections of a problem. Sorry I don't know more. Brian works at Wilderness Exchange and was the manager at R&J at the time. He might be able to tell you about it.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

This thread is a mess

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
kevin deweese wrote:

This thread is a mess

Your mom is a mess.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

Your mom is a mess.

Considering how bad your memory is, I'm more than impressed with my mother's ability to make a lasting impression on you. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Kevin, it's clear you have no idea of the contraption I'm referring to. I barely do, it was up for one day about a decade or something ago.

From my memory, I think it would be ideal for me. Added bonus that I have everything for it. 

If I remember correctly, the slack (bottom) end looped upward to something, maybe a spring loaded drum or maybe a counterweight of some sort. 

What I do remember is that it tracked well even at the bottom of a route. A fixed rope setup like the micro trax doesn't do to hot near the ground, even with weight at the end of the rope. That plus the quickness of just quickly rapping down is what interests in recreating it. It would allow me take a lap up the tree of pain and get down without catching my breath etc.

The tree of pain consists of a 25' chain hanging from a branch that I have anchored the bottom to create a 25 degree overhang. I dry tool up the bastard, even fig 4 up it. It would be really beneficial to get down in about 5 sec, rather than the 60 it takes to release a min trax and rappel. Other ideas are also welcome.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I certainly need a swivel for this. That's not the problem. I'm looking for a picture of the wild way they they rigged this. 

Greg Klingler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

I designed and built the contraption you are talking about.  I'd be happy to discuss it with you.

Greg Klingler

720-289-6440

greg@finnoff.com

Ryan Bowen · · Bend, Or · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 85

we want pictures!

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

@Greg, Without demanding all the grisly details, perhaps you could comment on the device? Did it work? Would you use it yourself? Should it exist?

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Considering Mr Klingler just created this account 6 hours ago,  I'm left wondering 

Did OP see this contraption on this site? 

If so then did Mr. Klingler forget his previous account? 

Did he delete his former account due to something that's a story unto itself? 

Was the device posted by someone else?

Is Mr. Klingler just a troll pretending to be the one? 

Will this single post be the alpha and omega of Mr. Klingler's contributions to MP?

Surely Mr. Klingler will deliver...

From his website: http://www.finnoff.com/about.html

Greg Klingler: Over 30 years experience in operations and financial management. Greg's career includes serving as General Manager for Turbo West Aviation, and as Executive Vice President of Operations and Finance for Pilatus Business Aircraft Ltd.

Earlier in his career, Greg was Senior Strategic Planner for Mergers and Acquisitions Analysis of Boise Cascade. He then became Operations Manager of the largest paper manufacturing division of that company. Klingler earned a degree in Chemical Engineering from the University of Colorado as well as an MBA from Harvard Business School.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
kevin deweese wrote:

Considering Mr Klingler just created this account 6 hours ago,  I'm left wondering 

You might be on on the Deep State conspiracy. A somewhat simpler explanation - instead of looking at when poster joined ( February 2012), you looked at the time stamp of his reply (6 hours ago).

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55
amarius wrote:

You might be on on the Deep State conspiracy. A somewhat simpler explanation - instead of looking at when poster joined ( February 2012), you looked at the time stamp of his reply (6 hours ago).

GOLD.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
amarius wrote:

You might be on on the Deep State conspiracy. A somewhat simpler explanation - instead of looking at when poster joined ( February 2012), you looked at the time stamp of his reply (6 hours ago).

Almost, I looked at when he posted his first contribution, of which the 6 hours was correct. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
kevin deweese wrote:

Considering how bad your memory is, I'm more than impressed with my mother's ability to make a lasting impression on you. 

Turns out that it was exactly as I remember. I guess the plaques and bundles aren't as bad as you thought. 

That'll be all I share about it. I do think it's pretty awesome that we've got a tight enough community that a simple question like this can be answered within a few days. Kevin not withstanding.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Homemade auto belay, Rockn and Jamn North, appr…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started