Best Harness for Ice and Alpine?

Shepido wrote:

Did you lose all the screws racked on that Caritool? 

I have the vaults - love em - but the Sitta harness cannot take them - I tore the slots in just 6 days on ice this season. I picked up a Mammut Togir 3 Slide while Petzl decides if they are going to warranty my Sitta or not. The Togir ice clipper slots are reinforced a whole lot more with heavier stitching, and thicker material. Stories like this just freak me out, just look down and boom gone.  I wonder if anyone has had a crazy epic due to losing a rack of screws?

I've had no problems using the DMM Vaults on my Sitta. However, the ice clipper slot material is pretty thin, I could see it having durability issues.

I've broken 3 black diamond screw holders (2 in an icy chimney) and one Petzl carritool, the Petzl is stronger, I broke that once when rappelling, my tool got snagged on a sling...  I'm more careful now.

Dropped a couple screws which I found (one in 3 feet deep powder!)

I like my mammut togir click.

Lost 3 screws climbing Mt Washington when a clipper broke, maybe 8 years ago... Never found them.

I had a ice clipper break when my tool got stuck on a tree. My X Dream fell 100 feet. Found it and still use it.

BD Technician

Christian George wrote:

Grivel posideon 

It’s dry treated. 

Why does it come with a nut guard? Ice climbing didn't get that dangerous in the past few years, did it?

Since we’re throwing out names... DMM Renegade  

Decaf Christian D!!!! CAF

Christian George wrote:

Frickin Decafe... that’s blasphemy Bill. And I will hear none of it. 

Lol

 Amen brother! I have cut down though. I drink a double shot/day instead of 3. 

I have the Grivel Poseidon and really like it, but not for any of its 'alpine' features (lightweight, dry-treated)...

...it's just the only climbing harness I have that doesn't mash my balls. With my others, you have to make a conscious effort to keep the leg loops high and tight, and belay in a 'cowboy' stance. Even then, some (BD Momentum, I'm looking at you) still pull the loops inward and really fucking hurt.

The Grivel has some kind of witch-magic that makes it totally painless while belaying, so it has become my go-to for gym and rock climbing, too. The gear loops are 'meh' and the haul loop sucks, though.

Christian George wrote:

It is a back support that spreads the impact over several vertebrae  instead of just one or two. 

It is easily removable for people who don’t mind riding a wheelchair. 

Everyone talks shit about it, but it is very comfortable and a great idea. 

People talked shit about friends when they came out in the 70’s, now cams are “the way” and people talk shit about tricams and hexes. 

Einstein put it susinctly when he said “great ideas run into violent opposition from mediocre minds”

LOL. Relax.

I could've used it on my wall days. My back arches just thinking about those belays.

I've been climbing in the dead bird for a few months and love it.

I'm resurrecting this thread. It seems like the 395a has been the general consensus however some time has passed and I'm curious if that's still the best option. Any more thoughts on the Petzl Sitta?

Blake Bolton wrote: I'm resurrecting this thread. It seems like the 395a has been the general consensus however some time has passed and I'm curious if that's still the best option. Any more thoughts on the Petzl Sitta?

I like the Sitta, but the fit is weird for me, especially when wearing a lot of layers.  I will try an Arcteryx harness next - having 4 ice clippers is really nice.

I like the Petzl Corax

Edit: the old one.. the new ones SUCK!

Camp Flash at 236 grams, 4 ice clippers, and an affordable cost or the Alpine Flash at 300 grams with adjustable leg loops.
Do people hate weight savings these days?

I liked the SITTA at first, but it wore very fast, and then I torn the elastic g-string thing that hold up the leg loops - easy to sew back but this is a common weak point. It would probably be an OK harness for just ice or mountaineering but not durable enough for alpine or rock.

The SITTA is awesome for its weight, but does lack in the durability a bit.  I like it enough that I'd buy a new one if it broke though.  

Petzl.....YOU GOT ME