Carolina Christmas climbing recommendations?

You can walk off the north side of looking glass. I have only climbed the sperm there but the walk off wasn't too bad.

if you're looking for surf, the OBX is your best bet (period - don't even mess with SC)- be aware, however, this is quite a drive from or to WNC. Water this time of year is getting cold (mid 50s) - depending on where you go, you'll want to bring your wetsuit, booties, (maybe even gloves & hood -- may not need them, but just in case). OBX will be colder... SOBX will be a bit warmer. You can check out Wrightsville Beach in the SOBX - this may be your best bet with easy highway access. check this for a report - wblivesurf.com 

as for climbing, you've gotten lots of good advice. Stone Mountain and/or Pilot Mt. will be a shorter drive from the OBX; anything in the Cashiers/Highlands (Laurel Knob, Big Green, WS, etc.) area will be your longest drive.  

If you're looking for all around climbing, those that have recommended Looking Glass are correct. There's all kinds of climbing from 5.7 - 5.12 - this is outside Brevard and that's not a short drive between the waves and the stone. If I were you, I'd plan around the drive... get on Google maps and work on NOT spending your whole trip in the car. 

Good luck! Have fun! Enjoy the home state! 

The road up to Looking Glass is closed. Long approaches now. Would reccomend Rumbling Bald, Stone Mountain, or Shortoff.

Thanks for all the input (even though I'm not the op).  I will be in the area at the same time.  Any recommendations for a family friendly crag?  I noted the Rocky face recreational area as it has many low grades, I will have my 6 and 9 yo with me.  Anything else closer to Raleigh?  It seems about 3 hrs from where I'll be staying.

Wes C wrote:

Thanks for all the input (even though I'm not the op).  I will be in the area at the same time.  Any recommendations for a family friendly crag?  I noted the Rocky face recreational area as it has many low grades, I will have my 6 and 9 yo with me.  Anything else closer to Raleigh?  It seems about 3 hrs from where I'll be staying.

Pilot mountain is 1 1/2 hours or so from raleigh, rocky face is closer to 3. Both are family friendly, although rocky face may be the best choice as it has a super short approach, close bathrooms, picnic tables by the crag. It is an old quarry and not really representative of the best NC has to offer, but it is family friendly and convenient. 

Pilot has a longer approach hike (although still pretty short) and better climbing. 

The Asheboro boulders are the closest area to Raleigh, you need to be a member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition to access the area per our agreement with the land owner. 

Brian Payst wrote:

Pilot mountain is 1 1/2 hours or so from raleigh, rocky face is closer to 3. Both are family friendly, although rocky face may be the best choice as it has a super short approach, close bathrooms, picnic tables by the crag. It is an old quarry and not really representative of the best NC has to offer, but it is family friendly and convenient. 

Pilot has a longer approach hike (although still pretty short) and better climbing. 

The Asheboro boulders are the closest area to Raleigh, you need to be a member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition to access the area per our agreement with the land owner. 

Thanks, I'm leaning toward Rocky face if the weather is good

Wes C wrote:

Thanks, I'm leaning toward Rocky face if the weather is good

Pilot is much better in my opinion it has great views and great climbing on a variety of different climbing features. Rocky face is an old rock quarry- not very scenic and basically just blasted out rock that has some climbable features- there are some good routes but it's just not the same experience.

But if you want to grill hotdogs off the back of your truck while belaying at the same time, Rocky face is the place to be

Edited to add: the approach at Pilot is a 5 minute downhill walk

Dave T wrote:

Pilot is much better in my opinion it has great views and great climbing on a variety of different climbing features. Rocky face is an old rock quarry- not very scenic and basically just blasted out rock that has some climbable features- there are some good routes but it's just not the same experience.

But if you want to grill hotdogs off the back of your truck while belaying at the same time, Rocky face is the place to be

Edited to add: the approach at Pilot is a 5 minute downhill walk

It looks like there is a lot of top rope routes at Pilot.  The beach area seems to have a lot of anchors listed at the top of the routes.  Three bears however didn't list if the anchors were natural or bolted?  What would I need to take to build anchors there?  I have plenty of static line and webbing as we have to build anchors off trees here where we climb.  Thanks.  

Most (if not all) TR routes in Three Bears as well as Little Amphitheater have bolted anchors. These are the closest/easiest to access top-roping areas from the parking lot.

Will Maness wrote:

Most (if not all) TR routes in Three Bears as well as Little Amphitheater have bolted anchors. These are the closest areas to the parking lot and easiest to access. 

Thanks!  Are these identified from the top at all?  I don't want to see the kids up on something they can't get up. I'm assuming the trek down is easyish?  The rock definitely looks more interesting.  Want to make sure the kids have a good time.

In general, pilot has bolted anchors on almost every route. The park superintendent has requested that tree anchors not be set up to prevent further degradation of the trees around the cliffs Edge so avoid that if you can. He is, however, fine with anchors set up on some of the boulders at the top of the cliff. You will find easy access anchors at the parking lot area, some of the amphitheater routes, the little Amphitheater, Three Bears Gully and the beach. With kids that small I would recommend some of the easier TR routes in the Three Bears Gully. Enjoy! http://dev-ccc7.pantheonsite.io/sites/default/files/PilotGuide_v2_online_booklet.pdf this link should hook you up with a free pdf guide to Pilot mountain

Andrew AJ Jackson wrote:

In general, pilot has bolted anchors on almost every route. The park superintendent has requested that tree anchors not be set up to prevent further degradation of the trees around the cliffs Edge so avoid that if you can. He is, however, fine with anchors set up on some of the boulders at the top of the cliff. You will find easy access anchors at the parking lot area, some of the amphitheater routes, the little Amphitheater, Three Bears Gully and the beach. With kids that small I would recommend some of the easier TR routes in the Three Bears Gully. Enjoy! http://dev-ccc7.pantheonsite.io/sites/default/files/PilotGuide_v2_online_booklet.pdf this link should hook you up with a free pdf guide to Pilot mountain

Awesome thanks for the info.  Now to watch the weather and hope it stays dry while we're there.

http://www.climbpilotnc.us/ClimbingAreas/Areas.htm

has the most detailed Pilot Mountain information by far, especially if it's your first time there.... everything from approach to climbs and all the anchors. 

great spot to climb with the kids!