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Devils Tower Aid

Original Post
ERolls · · Custer, SD · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 90

Anyone have route suggestions for C1/C2 aid practice on Devils Tower? Preferably something that won't get in the way of the free climbers weekend. Thanx -E

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The routes that get aid ratings in the guidebook are fairly tricky - I took a big fall trying to do a clean ascent of the aid route next to El Matador. Just about every free route on the tower is a good clean aid line though. Pick any 5.11 or 5.12 fingercrack and you likely won't be in anybody's way.

Doug Hemken · · Delta, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,705

What Andrew said: look at the free lines. As long as you're climbing clean, what style you climb in is your business.

If you can find a copy of Harlin's "Guide to North America", he gives some clean aid ratings to DT routes in there, stuff like McCarthy NF 5.8 C1. The old Bonney guide might give you some ideas, too, although the aid ratings there are for iron, e.g. Hollywood & Vines 5.5 A1. But if you take the modern free ratings and pay attention to the G-PG-R ratings, and then look at the older guides, it might give you a few ideas of things to explore.

Be sure to report back here when you find something fun. There are loads of folks interested in beginner aid routes that are clean.

mtnkid85 Mershon · · MT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 25

bumping this, pretty much interested in the exact same thing. Ernie, did you ever get on anything?

Frank Sanders · · Devils Tower, WY · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 100

Hollywood & Vine and the 1st (& 2nd) pitch of Carol's Crack!!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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