Your favorite solo’s in Jtree

Guy Keesee wrote:

David Fogel wrote:

..... Didn’t know you could walk off mikes books... it’s a rap. Please correct name if I’m wrong anyone.....

One can down climb off of Intersection Rock if thats what you mean by "Mikes Books" ....  I think it is called... "The Southeast Corner" ... 5.3.  It is a downclimb, with a blind move down but once you do it.... its a piece of cake.  You can downclimb, down jump and chimney sideways to get off of Intersection.  

Josh is chalk full of horrible, scary dangerous descents.... its part of the charm. 

But to the OP.....    you look like you can handle yourself, from your profile, just don't get in over your head, have fun. 

David Fogel wrote:

Ryan Strickland is a badass, but imo be careful if you go on bonzo dog band. Imho the crux is really funky and awkward and old school j Tree 5.7. Soloing fote hog was fun after I roped it 2 times. Didn’t know you could walk off mikes books... it’s a rap. Please correct name if I’m wrong anyone. Dairy Queen wall you can walk off easy and there are 5.5-5.7s there. There’s a 5.7 in echo cove sbout 100~ left of big more that might be fun for you. Easy walk off. And ya I didn’t Cove has a lot of good solos w walkoffs, short wall as mentioned and fuedal Wall. Have fun sir.

Ha! I got scared leading Fote Hog a couple years ago when I was considering it as a solo. Made me glad I roped up and I will likely never solo that one. I like Bonzo Dog Band because you may as well solo, since the 5.7 move is so poorly protected. To each their own! I'm no badass though, far from it. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

One can down climb off of Intersection Rock if thats what you mean by "Mikes Books" ....  I think it is called... "The Southeast Corner" ... 5.3.  It is a downclimb, with a blind move down but once you do it.... its a piece of cake.  You can downclimb, down jump and chimney sideways to get off of Intersection.  

Josh is chalk full of horrible, scary dangerous descents.... its part of the charm. 

But to the OP.....    you look like you can handle yourself, from your profile, just don't get in over your head, have fun. 

 

I prefer the West Chimney downclimb, which I think you're referring to. The hardest moves are low enough to the ground that you probably wouldn't die... And like you said, once you know how to do it, it's really easy. 

Ryan Strickland wrote:

I prefer the West Chimney downclimb, which I think you're referring to. The hardest moves are low enough to the ground that you probably wouldn't die... And like you said, once you know how to do it, it's really easy. 

Ryan.....    MP says it's this. I always remember its right of the waterchute and left of Bushisner (sp) 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/southeast-corner/105839311

and yes if you blew it the dirt is really close. 

The downclimb from the top is different than pictured, but one does jump... to a pedestal, the crux for me and the bad knee, a squeeze through chimney... will rip your shirt.. and the final blind lower down....    

Heck just thinking about it makes me want to go smoke a J on the summit and do the scarry downclimb.  

Guy Keesee wrote:

Ryan.....    MP says it's this. I always remember its right of the waterchute and left of Bushisner (sp) 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/southeast-corner/105839311

and yes if you blew it the dirt is really close. 

The downclimb from the top is different than pictured, but one does jump... to a pedestal, the crux for me and the bad knee, a squeeze through chimney... will rip your shirt.. and the final blind lower down....    

Heck just thinking about it makes me want to go smoke a J on the summit and do the scarry downclimb.  

 

I guess we aren't talking about the same thing. I am referring to West Chimney. I've done that route you're talking about as an up-climb and it was pretty fun and would be a mellow down climb too. 

Business Trip

kmyee wrote:

The Bong (5.4) is a popular solo. 

The Bong and the Eye are both fun.  Peyote Cracks are good - cruxes right off the ground.

Hands down favorite jt 5.6 solo “damn jam” pretty secure chimmney with a option of a more exposed finish.. theres a walk off

Ryan Strickland wrote:

I guess we aren't talking about the same thing. I am referring to West Chimney. I've done that route you're talking about as an up-climb and it was pretty fun and would be a mellow down climb too. 

Ryan.... maybe the next time I am looking for a good way down I will try the "West Chimney" .....    The upper right ski track is also a good way down. 

Dan Evans wrote:

No offense to Russ, but personally I recommend against soloing Right On--especially given the criteria you are looking for in a solo. The route finding isn't obvious and it is really easy to find yourself in more difficult territory on pure friction slab without any real way to back out. When I first started climbing, my partner who regularly led JT 5.8 took a 30 ft tumble down the slab on pitch 1 and broke his ankle. Years later, a different climbing partner who lives in JT and climbs there all the time led it and said it felt sand bagged. I have no doubt that the true route goes at the suggested grade, but don't feel it is a good free solo for someone just visiting the area.

Did your buddy dislocate hid ankle? 

I climbed this route years ago and we got to the base shortly after another pair got there and they let us jump on ahead of them. The more experienced climber fell on the slab runout and destroyed his ankle. We found his phone on the way out and met up with his partner at Nomad the next day to return it. He showed us a pic of his partners ankle and it was one of the most brutal things I've seen.

Was that you? 

The bong, the eye, beginners left and right, upper right ski track, toe jam, mikes books. All secure routes right outta the campground. 

Dan Stringer wrote:

Did your buddy dislocate hid ankle? 

I climbed this route years ago and we got to the base shortly after another pair got there and they let us jump on ahead of them. The more experienced climber fell on the slab runout and destroyed his ankle. We found his phone on the way out and met up with his partner at Nomad the next day to return it. He showed us a pic of his partners ankle and it was one of the most brutal things I've seen.

Was that you? 

lol yes.. that was me that met you at Nomads. I was the one with the shiny new rack. Small world. Thanks again! I've yet to go back and lead that climb because of that.

Nectar 5.4, next to bird of fire, is actually a ton of fun with great jams and minimal wide weirdness 

Water Monkey wrote:

The bong, the eye, beginners left and right, upper right ski track, toe jam, mikes books. All secure routes right outta the campground. 

Tag a rope or down solo if doing toe jam no walk off

Dan Evans wrote:

lol yes.. that was me that met you at Nomads. I was the one with the shiny new rack. Small world. Thanks again! I've yet to go back and lead that climb because of that.

Woah, that's wild! Sorry we couldn't get your buddy's gear back to him, those Brits that were there were all too happy to swoop up on it. 

I hope your buddy made a full recovery and is still climbing!

Ben Snow wrote:

Nectar 5.4, next to bird of fire, is actually a ton of fun with great jams and minimal wide weirdness 

I did Nectar many years (and two kids) ago when I was really into the wider grovels.  I seem to remember it being a bit sketchy for a 5.4....but maybe that was because I ran out of gear 1/2 way up so I guess it is easily solo-able.

Nectar is #2 hand jams the entire way up. who needs gear

I'll chime in only because I've looked for these same recommendations and didn't find the information I wanted... too many recommendations for hiking/driving to a spot for a single route. I like short walls with a bunch of routes right next to each other and an easy walk off so that you can just knock them out as fast as possible. You hardly need a guidebook for these spots.

trashcan - the entire west side, just bang them all off for a quick ~8 pitches. right on your way into the park and 15' from the car. 5.0-5.6

atlantis area: a little hike in but a ton of routes

-minotaur wall (in front of main atlantis) you can do all the (~5) routes, even the 9/10s are 1-move boulder problems into 5.7 jamming

-then the main wall is great; good rock and solid jamming. sometimes there's TR-ers. 5.5-5.8

-the back wall (Morrisette) has easy routes if you're still in the mood, rock is worse though

lost horse wall (right): the swift 5.7 is fun.. kinda out of the way and the descent is longer. but fun because it's ~3 pitches. you pass this wall when driving to atlantis area

dairy queen wall (right) - very positive/juggy climbing and jamming on a steep wall for the grade (5.7s). great rock quality.

the blob - great if you're stoked on the cardio aspect because the descent is longer haha. aka not that great. but you can do beginner 1, beginner 2, and the bong (5.2-5.4)