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Comfortable harness

Original Post
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

So it's a bit past time for me to get a new harness. I have delayed this probably longer than I should have because my current harness is super comfy and I don't want to get something less comfy. What I have right now is a really old BD harness, I think it's an earlier version of the momentum model. I love that I can sit in my harness at a semi-hanging belay for a least half an hour before it starts to get uncomfortable.

I want a harness that is just as comfy as my current one but isn't heavier (ie a bigwall harness). 4 gear loops and a haul loop, speed buckles preferred, don't care about the style of leg loops (although I'd prefer detatchable). I prefer the molded gear loops as opposed to the rounded ones but I'm sure I could adjust. 

Any suggestions on where I should start my search?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Eli, you’ve been on here long enough to know where this thread is headed...

Misty Mountain Cadillac.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Yes, I know and I've heard, both on here as well as from one of my climber partners. However, I don't want to limit myself to one brand, despite their reputation. Full disclosure:

I'm planning on getting a new harness as a Channuka gift when I visit my parents over winter break. Chattanooga only has one local gearshop for climbing and I don't have any idea how many different brands of harnesses they carry so I want to have plenty of options to explore in case they don't carry some of the options I want to try on.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

you must carefully consider how it would shape naughty crotch bulge and whether it would deliver a stiff lashing to the testicle upon your inevitable fallings

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Kids today don't know why it's called the Cadillac.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280

I really like the comfort/weight of my Arcteryx AR-365 but I tried on the BD Solution and it was basically the same thing for half the price (at least retail)

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100

So if you're limited to the harnesses in that one shop why not wait and just try them on when you're in town. Then get the one that works for you. 

LLubchenco · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 25

I totally dig my BD Solution, but it sounds like it might fall just short as it doesn't really have an actual haul loop. I'd agree that it is super similar to the Arcteryx line of harnesses but for way less (although they do have a haul loop). I've sat in mine for an hour plus at a belay and started to just feel the effects towards 50 minutes. Pretty impressive for $70 in my opinion. Good luck in your search. 

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
RockinOut wrote:

So if you're limited to the harnesses in that one shop why not wait and just try them on when you're in town. Then get the one that works for you. 

Because I want to go in having at least a general idea of what I want. I don't trust the saleperson to get me what if I don't know what I want. Basically, I'm trying to do some research before, or rather crowdsource some research because I am clueless. All I've ever worn was this old BD momentum and the BD Alpine Bod that I learned to climb on, so I want to get some more opinions.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

BD Momentum AL. Discontinued :( In my book it was the best harness ever. Sadly, it was.

Edelrid Orion. Most likely the best option available now days. Not as good as Momentum in terms of wearing on/off when wearing crampons, don't like that idea of right side buckle, although there's nothing comparable around now days. Bonuses. 4 carytools option (2 slots + 2 could be attached to leg loops), Omni-friendly leg loops desing (read: easy Croll attachment), wisely desingned gear loops (fully functional when carrytools are installed).

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

More info, I don't ice climb so crampon and ice screw stuff is irrelevant. Also Pavel, what was the momentum AL?

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
eli poss wrote:

what was the momentum AL?

Old good Black Diamond harness was discontinued around 2012. No bells and whistles. Top/left corner:

Sorry, have failed to find a better pic of Momentum AL.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

I'm pretty sure that's the same harness that I have. Except in much much better condition.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

Aaaand Aleks wins the internet.

J G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 38

Edelrid Cyrus 

J G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 38
John Wilder wrote:

Not available in the US, unfortunately. Luckily, the Orion is the same harness with adjustable leg loops. 

Weird, I bought mine from backcountry but it was at least a year ago. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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