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Luna Luna
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Oct 11, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
seeking opinions/ideas for where to find the balance between good routes with good protection at GOTG thoughts?
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CMaloney
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Oct 11, 2017
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 0
New Era sews up nicely, at least the first pitch. Most of the moderates seem to protect well. Have not climbed very high grades there but GOTG certainly has some sketchy routes if you want them.
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Rich Brereton
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Oct 11, 2017
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Pownal, ME
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 175
What grades? Sport or trad? Bob's Buttress Crack, Credibility Gap, Alligator Soup, Mighty Thor, Diesel and Dust, Anaconda p1, Rainbow Bridge, Men at Work, Grapefruit Dance. All well protected on solid stone (for the Garden)
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Luna Luna
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Oct 11, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
prefer trad:: 5.fun!- mid 11s happy to get on anything that climbs well in range and have a good time sport is cool too if its safely bolted (looks like some things are protected w/pins and have questionable anchors?)
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Mike Robinson
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Oct 11, 2017
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 8,011
many year ago when I climbed there I remember feeling like most of the routes where questionably protected...but that may be part of the adventure...a beautiful place to climb...Also some great stuff not far away in South Platte
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Tim Stich
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Oct 12, 2017
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
Luna, that soft, red rock just isn't the best rock out there to hold a hard fall. Nuts and cams in it are highly suspect. Get out of Garbage of the Gods and head to Turkey Rocks or some other S. Platte destination for trad climbing. Have you been to Parachute Rock yet? It's near Woodland Park. Also, check out Tanner Dome and Voyager.
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Doug Lintz
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Oct 12, 2017
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Kearney, NE
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 1,196
The sport routes on the east side of South Gateway Rock are reasonably protected. In general, if you're that concerned about iffy protection (trad or sport), I'd suggest not climbing at Garden of the Choss. :)
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Luna Luna
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Oct 12, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
I hear you guys, turkey rocks is GREAT.. I haven't been to Parachute Rock, maybe I'll check it out during the week next week. Call me stubborn, call me a choss chaser (I personally prefer eye of the choss) but I like to form the opinion for myself.
Doug: thanks, east side.. reasonably protected
stich: suspsect protection.. or no protection? ill take suspect protection on routes at/BELOW grade and... uh.. not fall?
its just too pretty and outstanding of a location to never climb there at all
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Tim Stich
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Oct 15, 2017
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
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Luna Luna
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Oct 17, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
Ended up doing a bunch of sport routes and trad lines around new era. Some.. 100% inadvisable to fall. Some were great. New era was great to the top. Worth it.
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Tim Stich
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Oct 17, 2017
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
End of an Era is one you don't want to fall on after the first bolt. If you don't clip the second, I think a groundfall is possible. Jim Donnini retrobolted the start of Alligator Soup and made it fun, whereas in the past it was a horror show. I enjoy leading that now.
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Luna Luna
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Oct 18, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
yeah.. I "borrowed" a bolt from end to end to not feel so close to death on end of an era. end to end felt like a much more enjoyable route in my opinion.
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Rope Byrne
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Oct 18, 2017
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Colorado Springs
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 105
Luna Luna wrote:Ended up doing a bunch of sport routes and trad lines around new era. Some.. 100% inadvisable to fall. Some were great. New era was great to the top. Worth it. congrats on finding the good climbing at GoG!
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Tim Stich
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Oct 19, 2017
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
Luna Luna wrote:yeah.. I "borrowed" a bolt from end to end to not feel so close to death on end of an era. end to end felt like a much more enjoyable route in my opinion. Oh, I clip two or three bolts on End to End myself when I lead that. Then I go back to the arete to finish up. It turns the climbing into 5.9, but it's much safer.
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Robert Scrivner
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Oct 27, 2017
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Estes Park
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 285
Go climb Footloose 'n Fancy Free on the west side.
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Glenn Schuler
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Oct 27, 2017
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Monument, Co.
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,330
Rob Scrivner wrote:Go climb Footloose 'n Fancy Free on the west side. Seeing as how someone has actually died on that route, I don't know if I would recommend to OP.
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Beth C
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Oct 27, 2017
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
Glenn Schuler wrote:Seeing as how someone has actually died on that route, I don't know if I would recommend to OP. If you use this rubric to choose climbs in the Garden, you aren't gonna be doing much climbing in the Garden.
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Kevinmurray
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Oct 27, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 0
Beth, If you knew some of the things Glenn has done you probably would not have made that comment.
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Luna Luna
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Oct 28, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
I thin the walk off kindergarten walk is potentially more dangerous than the way up. Another thing at gotg that is not intrinsically difficult... just downright sketchy and dangerous
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Beth C
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Oct 28, 2017
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
Kevinmurray wrote:Beth, If you knew some of the things Glenn has done you probably would not have made that comment. Sorry if my flippant comment touched a nerve, but it behooves people to realize that the Garden is a dangerous place, even for an inherently dangerous sport. It's my home crag, and I learned to climb there, but I know that it's dangerous and shitty.
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Tim Stich
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Oct 28, 2017
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,520
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