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La Sportiva Kataki

Original Post
Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

I just got back from a week in Indian Creek with the La Sportiva Kataki, and here are a few initial thoughts.

The Sportiva Kataki is the lace version of the Otaki and the sister shoe to the softer Skwama. I have worn out a pair of both the Otakis and the Skwamas, and I'll compare the Kataki to both of those.

The Kataki fits like the Otaki and Skwama: wide at the forefoot. But the laces extend down to near the toe, allowing a more precise fit. The toe is low profile and similar to the Otaki. The Skwama's toe is a bit higher profile and less supple with all the rubber up front. I climbed cracks from fist size down to 5.12 .3-.4 Camalots in the Kataki. I also used them to climb Stolen Chimney, and I used them for an afternoon of sport climbing at Wall Street. From 5.10 hands to 5.12 fingers to 5.12 edgy face routes, they performed great.

The laces do show some fuzzy wear after several days of jamming in cracks. I imagine if I was there for much longer, the laces would need to be replaced.

They are much stiffer than the Skwama. The Skwama is not only softer in flex, its XS Grip seems to wear out nearly twice as fast as XS Edge. The benefit of XS Grip is that I think it holds much better on rounded crappy feet frequently encountered while bouldering. The Skwama is definitely better for bouldering and gym climbing for me than the Otaki/Kataki. The more custom fit of the Kataki over the Otaki due to the laces make the Kataki my choice for roped climbing.

Some folks may poo on the idea of using an "aggressive" shoe like the Kataki for crack climbing. But other folks recognize that shoes like the Katana Lace and Kataki can be great for cracks---especially thin cracks.

Anyway, that's about it at this point. I need to wear them more to have more thoughts on their performance on other terrain. My prior experience with the Otaki and Skwama informs some of what I think I'll find. For example, I think the S-heel is a gimmick and doesn't do much, if anything, for me. I'm really liking this new line from Sportiva.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Thanks for the review!  So if the S-heel is gimmicky, what is it you like about the line?  It sounds like the Kataki is otherwise basically a Katana Lace.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Thanks, I've been meaning to try on a pair. How does it compare to the Katana Lace in stiffness? I know the toe box is more asymmetric like the Otaki...

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

It is very similar in performance to a Katana Lace. Thus the "Kataki: Katana+Otaki" name. The fit is different. I couldn't wear a Katana Lace, but the Kataki fits my foot extremely well. It is similar to a typical Scarpa fit, but with a slightly larger (less precise for some?) heel. Fit is everything when it comes to shoes. I'm hesitant to endorse how well any shoe fits as different folks' feet are so different. It may be slightly softer than a Katana Lace, but to be honest I haven't worn a Katana Lace enough to say that's the case

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I'm hoping it won't be too much softer than Katana Lace... The Otaki fits my feet better, so I'm hoping that'll extend to the Kataki.

As for the "typical" Scarpa fit, I'm not should there is such a thing. IMO, the Vapors (more asymmetric like the Otaki, but narrower and aren't as stiff) fit differently from the Instincts (even between the VS and the current lace, with the lace having a tighter (narrower & lower profile) toe box in practice) and from the Boost(er/ic)/Dargo/Furia. Not to mention the fit difference between iterations.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

They fit very much like an Otaki and are similar in stiffness. I have worn out two pairs of Instinct VS, each with multiple resoles, and they were my prior favorite shoe before this new line from Sportiva. I got a pair of the new Instinct Lace in the mail when I got home, but I haven't tried them yet. Out of the box the new Instinct Lace felt like my toe was really "up front" in the toe box. Hard to describe, but it seemed a bit weird at my toes---as if my big toe was right over (almost beyond) the front edge of the sole, and I could easily stub my big toe if I wasn't careful. Is "too precise" a thing?

I appreciate the feedback on Scarpa shoes. My only real experience with them has been the Instinct VS, Feroce, and some Generators from way back when

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

You can see a tiny little bulge at the end of the toe of the Instinct Lace where my toe pushes the thin rand out

Bnice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Did you size the Kataki the same size as your Otaki and Skwama?

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

I went one half size bigger than my old Otaki and Skwama in order for my toes to lie flatter for cracks and longer comfort. My foot measures 10.5, but I usually wear 11.5 in most street shoes due to width issues. I've owned 2 pairs of Otaki at 43, one pair of Skwamas at 43, a current Skwama at 43.5 and the Kataki at 43.5.

Bnice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Awesome! Thanks for the review. I currently love my pair of Otakis and was eyeing the Katakis when I have to send these in for a resole. Or I was debating just getting another pair of Otakis. Being able to lace up tight to dial in the fit seems nice

Girish Ramesh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Hi Brian, I just won the Kataki in a prize draw and I'm wondering how to size them since I can't test the shoe before buying them since it's getting shipped to me. I am between 12.5-13 US street shoe size and I'm thinking of getting a 45.5 shoe. What do you think? I also have wide feet and morton's foot, so I think our fit should be similar. Also, do you recommend this shoe for gym climbing or should I save it for outdoor stuff? Thanks. 

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

I would go try on some Sportivas in the store and figure out what size you like. I wear an 11.5 street shoe usually. 43 is a single pitch fit and 43.5 is a multipitch and crack fit

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

I found the Skwama and Otaki to fit differently from many other LS shoes. I wear a 43 in Katana Lace, Miura VS, TC Pro, and Testarossa, but a 43 in the Skwama or Otaki is unusably sloppy.  I bought Skwamas in 42 and have been happy with that.  I don't own the Otaki but I've tried it on a couple of times and would also get it in 42. (I wear a 10.5-11 street shoe, not that that means much.)

Edit: I tried on a Kataki in 42 today. It fits just like the Otaki. It feels a bit softer overall than the Katana Lace but is otherwise shaped and constructed very similarly.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

Anyone want to venture a comparison to the Miura lace up? Those the most precise shoe I've ever worn and I love them for vertical climbing. Unfortunately they're a little too narrow for me to use out of the box and take a long time to break in to anything near comfortable.

Marc Squiddo · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

I've got a 41 in the skwama and Otaki and a 42 in the katana lace. Been eyeing these as I love laces. Feels like a 41.5 may be the ticket for me!

Ryan Crochiere · · Fairfax, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 76

I have all of the shoes mentioned in the La Sportiva line up.  I am not sure why, (perhaps there were different sizing generations) but I have found that my Otakis are much more precise and have a harder edge than my skwama of the same size.  I’ve taken to using my otaki for harder short routes and the Kataki for longer climbs.  I was also once Miura Guy, I still love em.  Still trying to figure out how I feel about the Miura XX.

John L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 10
Bill Czajkowski wrote:

Anyone want to venture a comparison to the Miura lace up? Those the most precise shoe I've ever worn and I love them for vertical climbing. Unfortunately they're a little too narrow for me to use out of the box and take a long time to break in to anything near comfortable.

I wear Miura Lace 39 and it's slightly tight even after 1 year. I recently bought Otaki size 39.5 and it's really comfortable after few climbing sessions. I think I should have gone with 39, but 39.5 comfortable enough.

For reference, my running shoes is size 42 or 8.5 2E (Asics)

Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

I had climbed in Otakis for the last year or so and LOVE them.  I have had them resoled a few times and the leather on top is now stretched and I have to crank down on the velcro which is causing some pain, or else they feel too loose.  I was looking to buy new shoes to replace them and was considering the Kataki - I have TC Pros and had Taratulaces, and think lace-ups for my more aggressive shoes might be a good idea.  I have read the posts above and it seems that I should maybe get the Katakis in the same size as my Otakis (44).  However, this website says the Katakis are NOT just lace-up Otakis and size quite differently.  Furthermore, this website predicts I should get a 44.5 in Katakis.  
First question - are Otakis and Katakis really that similar, or are they truly different shoes?
Second question - if I get Katakis, what size?
THANKS!!!

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Splitterchoss is wrong, the Kataki very much is a lace-up Otaki. Sizing is exactly the same.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

yep. I wear the same size in both

Marc Squiddo · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

Not me, kataki a 1/2 up

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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