Miura VS or Miura XX

Looking at either the Miura VS or the Miura XX as a primarily edging shoe for vertical to steep sport climbs. Which is better suited to this use?

They'll both be excellent for it IMO. Basically it comes down to whether you want laces or velcro. 

I personally like the katanas just a little more than the miuras, but I've heard the Katakis are basically the katana with an improved heel. Just try on a few pairs of edging shoes and see which ones you like best. 

The kataki is not just a katana with an improved heel. The fit of the shoe is wider overall, with quite a bit of extra room in the 4th, 5th, and "6th toe" areas. I can't wear a katana but the otaki is near dreamy. It is slightly softer out of the box, but no idea how that all plays out when they break in. My guess is they might stay a litte stiffer and retain their downturn a little more than a katana.

Muira xx is lower volume than the VS. Because of that, the xx feels more offset than the vs on MY foot. The VS is partially lined and the xx is fully lined. My vs stretched out much quicker than my xx's. The muira lace will fit the same as the xx. Trying them on is always the best bet though

I'm also interested in the xx. I have a narrow ass foot so I prefer laced shoes because I feel I can tighten them more.. what's the sizing like for the xx compared to street shoes. I've never tried the muira vs 

It's nearly impossible to answer that question. It's all dependent on your foot shape, and how tight you want it. The xx is my most recent shoe purchase, it's also the smallest shoe I've purchased thus far. My street size is 11.5/12. And my right foot is bigger than my left by enough to feel it when I put on my xx's. Shoes I've worn in the past year are mythos and finale - 42.5, katana lace - 43, miura xx -42, Anasazi- 10. The Katanas are my comfy shoe and would go a half size down for an aggressive fit. They also fit my foot shape better than any of my other shoes. Katanas seem to have a more flat ended toe box versus muira which seems more pointy and offset. Muira xx hurt like hell for A LONG TIME before they became wearable. Now they're only for my hard routes. Take all this with a grain of salt. 

Does anyone have an opinion which is stiffer? XX or VS

There's an Adam Ondra video where he claims the XX's are stiff and "wouldn't be the best gym shoe" (paraphrasing). So, I'd bet they 20's are stiffer than the VS

Update- I now have had both pairs for close to a year, and would say overall, unless you're really sensitive, they're both very similar. The 20's are maybe a bit stiffer, but I think it's mostly due to the fact that I can lace them extra tight. I prefer, and love the 20's, but for crag days when I'm not climbing my absolute max I tend to bring the VS's simply because they're replaceable. If the 20's weren't limited edition I'd probably only wear those. Just my opinion, and keep in mind I much prefer laces on any shoe.

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Does anyone have an opinion which is stiffer? XX or VS

they will be exactly the same stiffness, both have a full length 1.1mm midsole.

Well yes and no Seb.  TC Pro, Katana  Lace, and Miura VS all have 1.1mm midsoles, but I would disagree that they all are the same stiffness.  Other factors such as upper material, closure system, and fit make a difference as well.

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Well yes and no Seb.  TC Pro, Karan Lace, and Miura VS all have 1.1mm midsoles, but I would disagree that they all are the same stiffness.  Other factors such as upper material, closure system, and fit make a difference as well.

The real difference is how tight you fit them(one of the stiffest shoes i have ever owned was the speedster), the shoes deign dictates how tight you can fit them considering they have pretty much the same upper they will be equal in stiffness.

That being said i think i was wrong about the miura shoes having full length pretty sure it's half length.

That is definitely true.  I was surprised at how "soft" my comfy fit TC Pros felt, considering the rubber and design.  I also think that many people (myself included) confuse the extra power you get from a  downturned toe or heel tension with stiffness.  Outsole (is that the right term for the bottom?) rubber thickness also plays a huge role...both Miuras have relatively thin rubber at the toe (which is probably why the blow out so quickly).

Ted Pinson wrote:

That is definitely true.  I was surprised at how "soft" my comfy fit TC Pros felt, considering the rubber and design.  I also think that many people (myself included) confuse the extra power you get from a  downturned toe or heel tension with stiffness.  Outsole (is that the right term for the bottom?) rubber thickness also plays a huge role...both Miuras have relatively thin rubber at the toe (which is probably why the blow out so quickly).

I think the miuras blow out so quick due to how the rand meets the toe rubber and the extra pointy toe accelerating the wear, TC pro's have this rep for being master edgers but I think it's over hyped especially considering how most people size them like most shoes to get the most out of edging you really need to downsize I go with a quarter knuckle and it climbs cracks fine and edges so much better than with a flat foot.

In reality the tighter the shoe fits the better it will edge this is simply because your foot is squeezed in there so tight that it can not bend the shoe literally wont allow it, for this reason i feel that we should stop talking about edging performance and instead talk about how well a shoe can edge when worn comfortable or painful.

Well, that's sort of implied.  They do edge really well for their size even when sized comfy, but I'm definitely not nearly as secure as I am with my tight Miuras.  I've heard people say that Katana Laces actually perform better sized comfy, but the only pair I've had were sized for performance so it's hard to say.  I'm curious what size TC wore (relative to his street shoes obviously) on the Dawn Wall.  I tried on a pair of TCs in my Miura size and they were still pretty comfy, so I think it would take (and could go) pretty drastic downsizing.

Ted Pinson wrote:

  I tried on a pair of TCs in my Miura size and they were still pretty comfy, so I think it would take (and could go) pretty drastic downsizing.

I personally found TC pro's got uncomfortable fast due to the narrow toe.