Choosing a belay device

Wait till spring 2018 for the black diamond pilot honestly

20 kN wrote:

The Mega Jul is quite literally the single worst belay device on the market. I am going to assume with a very high degree of confidence you have not tried using it to conduct a double rope rap otherwise your opinion would differ significantly. Go try rappelling ten pitches on two 10mm strands and then come back and tell us your opinion of it.

The Mega Jul, especially the MJ2, is a great BELAY device. I carry an F-8 for rapping. There ya go!

20 kN wrote:

The Mega Jul is quite literally the single worst belay device on the market. I am going to assume with a very high degree of confidence you have not tried using it to conduct a double rope rap otherwise your opinion would differ significantly. Go try rappelling ten pitches on two 10mm strands and then come back and tell us your opinion of it.

You say it's the worst belay device, and your evidence is that it raps poorly?  Hmm... You know what raps worse? A GriGri...

It's a great device.  It's smaller, lighter, and cheaper than any other multi-function auto-blocker.  But then, if you're using double 10's, form factor probably isn't your first concern.  For anyone using thinner ropes, however, it's fantastic.  I've done plenty of 9.5/8mm raps after using guide mode with the 9.5, and have had exactly zero issues.  If you're climbing with fuzzed-out 10's or bigger, it's not the best device, granted.  But calling it "the single worst belay device on the market" is ridiculous.

Mark Paulson wrote:

You say it's the worst belay device, and your evidence is that it raps poorly?  Hmm... You know what raps worse? A GriGri...

It's a great device.  It's smaller, lighter, and cheaper than any other multi-function auto-blocker.  But then, if you're using double 10's, form factor probably isn't your first concern.  For anyone using thinner ropes, however, it's fantastic.  I've done plenty of 9.5/8mm raps after using guide mode with the 9.5, and have had exactly zero issues.  If you're climbing with fuzzed-out 10's or bigger, it's not the best device, granted.  But calling it "the single worst belay device on the market" is ridiculous.

There are plenty of reasons as to why it's the worst belay device on the market there is basically an entire thread that goes into explicit detail with numbers to back it up as to why it is the worst device on the market being shit on rappel is just one of many reasons why its a poor belay device, also grigri is great on rappel, easy control, locks of consistently unless on soaked or iced up ropes it pretty much everything you want in a device to rappel, just a shame it doesn't have two slots.

Apsu wrote:

...I use both a MegaJul and a Grigri 2. The Grigri is my go-to device for basically everything. I like the MegaJul, but it tends to get really hot and rappelling on it can be nightmarish--half the time I rappel with it I end up more pumped from keeping it from locking than the actual climbing.

All you have to do with the MegaJul is flip it upside down (green handle up) and it rappels like an ATC.  No lock-ups.

Mega-Jul is my preference. Has assisted braking in one direction and performs exactly like an ATC if flipped around. If flipped it rappels smoothly without the locking action. Also works just fine belaying a second, although I prefer the ATC guide in that function. ATC guide or other similar tube-style device is the only other option I would consider. 

Grigri's and other similar devices are great for belaying, but you still need another device to rappel with in most situations (unless you are purely doing single pitches with well-placed anchors)

Why carry two when you only need one?

Idaho Ian wrote:

Mega-Jul is my preference. Has assisted braking in one direction and performs exactly like an ATC if flipped around. If flipped it rappels smoothly without the locking action. Also works just fine belaying a second, although I prefer the ATC guide in that function. ATC guide or other similar tube-style device is the only other option I would consider. 

Grigri's and other similar devices are great for belaying, but you still need another device to rappel with in most situations (unless you are purely doing single pitches with well-placed anchors)

Why carry two when you only need one?

No you don't need two devices. Thread rope through anchor, biner block with a clove on a locker (or an 8 if you'r paranoid), first partner rappels with a grigri. Second partner pulls the locker out, puts on their tube device and raps as normal. 

First rap now has a full locking device, no need for a friction backup. Easier to manage any rope snags/snarls. Easier and faster to re-ascend the rope if you miss a station. Using a grigri is much better if you plan to simul. 

Big downside to megajul on rappel is that even when it is flipped to not lock the biner slightly goes into the slot when you pull on the brake strand. From a hanging stance it makes fully weighting the device before unclipping your PA a PITA. I used a megajul for an entire summer, around 300 pitches. Grigri wins hands down.

Idaho Ian wrote:

Mega-Jul is my preference. Has assisted braking in one direction and performs exactly like an ATC if flipped around. If flipped it rappels smoothly without the locking action. Also works just fine belaying a second, although I prefer the ATC guide in that function. ATC guide or other similar tube-style device is the only other option I would consider. 

Grigri's and other similar devices are great for belaying, but you still need another device to rappel with in most situations (unless you are purely doing single pitches with well-placed anchors)

Why carry two when you only need one?

When flipped around, the Mega-Jul locks in reverse.  That is, it locks when you are trying to take in rope instead of when rope is pulled out.  Therefore It is not exactly like the ATC when it is flipped around.  

As others have mentioned this reverse-locking makes it a pain in the arse to pull yourself up and weight the device at a hanging belay before you disconnect your PAS and rappel.  It would also cause problems if you needed to ascend a bit during a rappel

Double rope rap is part of why I bought the Alpine Up.

Best, OLH

cyclestupor wrote:

When flipped around, the Mega-Jul locks in reverse.  That is, it locks when you are trying to take in rope instead of when rope is pulled out.  Therefore It is not exactly like the ATC when it is flipped around.  

As others have mentioned this reverse-locking makes it a pain in the arse to pull yourself up and weight the device at a hanging belay before you disconnect your PAS and rappel.  It would also cause problems if you needed to ascend a bit during a rappel

Yeah, you caught me there. I was referring to it acting like an ATC on rappel, although that was not clear in my post. I have rappelled with it many times though and haven't had an issue. I am unsure why it hasn't locked up on me, because that seems logical. 

Anyways, if it is of any concern that the locking function causes trouble, I would default to my other recommendation. An ATC guide. Tried, true, and every function you need. 

As all the information is gathered, I suppose why I have good success with the grigri+ I have fed rope quickly , stopped falls, and never had to use anti panic function, I would use anywhere, I know opinions are like well you know we all have one.