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Conditions: Long's Peak: Cable Route

Original Post
Aaron Ray · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

I am planning to attempt Long's Peak via the Cable Route on Saturday 8/26. Has anyone been up there recently and can report on route conditions? I am curious about melt water/ice on the technical pitches and the presence of snow on the scramble to summit. Thanks.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Didn't get a look at the Cables but was up there on a different route on Saturday. Snow on the North face itself will not be an issue, but you will encounter some ice/wetness on the Cables. See recent conditions report here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_peak.php?peakparm=200&type=14ers   The ice is usually avoidable but the climbing might be slightly harder than 5.4. I wouldn't worry too much unless your lead limit is 5.4..  

Philip Magistro · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

I climbed the Cables on Sunday.  It was mostly dry with a bit of ice on the second half of the technical bit.  No snow to worry about currently, but last Saturday afternoon I was up there in a full blizzard, so get it done early and take some warm clothes.

rich mcfadden · · Garden City, ID · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 25

Solo climbed cables Wednesday and agree with previous post, driest I've seen it ever. What is interesting is someone left a coiled rope at longs peak by stamped rock, as well as a fixed line just right of cables route. Must of been a bail line as sling flaked around large chock and slings tied into existing pitons. There is an orange rain slicker jammed halfway next to a large loose flake. Whether it was weather or darkness this climbing party left two ropes, slings and carabiners. They obviously just missed the Cables eyebolts for rap which is too bad. I have to thank them though as my 30m rope rap off of last piston and rope sling reached a reasonable ledge to avoid downclimb. Enjoy!

rich mcfadden · · Garden City, ID · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 25

Philip Magistro · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
rich mcfadden wrote:

Solo climbed cables Wednesday and agree with previous post, driest I've seen it ever. What is interesting is someone left a coiled rope at longs peak by stamped rock, as well as a fixed line just right of cables route. Must of been a bail line as sling flaked around large chock and slings tied into existing pitons. There is an orange rain slicker jammed halfway next to a large loose flake. Whether it was weather or darkness this climbing party left two ropes, slings and carabiners. They obviously just missed the Cables eyebolts for rap which is too bad. I have to thank them though as my 30m rope rap off of last piston and rope sling reached a reasonable ledge to avoid downclimb. Enjoy!

Is that gear still up there?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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