Green Pond, NJ

Hey everyone, so I spoke with my friend from the morris county parks commission. She is in charge of the craigmere property. I was asking her about the climbing and she mentioned they had some folks testing out the cliffs behind craigmere awhile ago but nothing ever came off it. It sounded like the group just never followed through. They (the parks commission) were interested in opening the cliffs for climbing. She said they were thinking that folks would have to do a certain amount of climbs with the guides before climbing on their own. The craigmere property is becoming a concern. They don't have as many company picnics/events this year and need something there to draw in funds. So, they are looking for ways to use the property. This does not apply to the cliffs at the end of deerhaven as those are on watershed land.

Is the person who parks the suv on the jeep trail on here?

[] KarenNJ Aug 10, 2016 "Hey everyone, so I spoke with my friend from the morris county parks commission. She is in charge of the craigmere property. I was asking her about the climbing and she mentioned they had some folks testing out the cliffs behind craigmere awhile ago but nothing ever came off it. It sounded like the group just never followed through. 

They (the parks commission) were interested in opening the cliffs for climbing.

She said they were thinking that folks would have to do a certain amount of climbs with the guides before climbing on their own. 

The craigmere property is becoming a concern. 

They don't have as many company picnics/events this year and need something there to draw in funds. 

So, 

they are looking for ways to use the property. 

This does not apply to the cliffs at the end of deerhaven as those are on watershed land. 

Is the person who parks the suv on the jeep trail on here?KarenNJ Joined Dec 1, 2015[][]

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Please take a picture, that will be yours to post or not. I'm sorry to have gone off the grid. John Anderson and I are of the same mind mostly. 

Climbing in the United States is variously regulated I would be sad to see any fee charged.

 it is done now though. 

I'm sure every one else will have all the great ways to do whatever it is they do.

 I've never been a fan of the climbers advocacy group. That is just me. 

They have done great work, saved and opened a lot of rock climbing areas, Especially small & "historic" areas. 

They address The need for fixed anchors, and set guidelines For types of protection all great and needed in today's climbing realities. 

As to the radio silence ? 

for wonders never cease! 

It has always been that way, 

and I'm jealous. I whole heartedly approve! go get those twelves!, what do you call "Kevin Bien's shoes" the giant roof with the offset crack, running out the middle, two variations go out at the lip. . . . 

Different from the 'v' notch with a pin at the lip(? Still there) Aid Route - Rodeo-0 5.10a2 Free Route - Tis-Done, 5.11c/d? that is one of the oldest climbs I know of. Originally done with aid, turning the lip into the 'v' notch needs a careful belay. 

TRing this 1st if not short, stout & very strong, is highly recommended. 

The aid move often included a 'Lasooe', move before/ instead of cheater sticks. 

I can't wait to know what folks think with Modern I gear? 

The Blue Gus Chimney is in bounds !! I'm gonna try to get down there ! 

If it is your vehicle make a dash board card for easy identification, with a contact number What is your purpose, Climbing.

Let the great neiborhoods know that, 

My Dashboard card includes a picture, and the time /date of expected. return. 

Safety is the highest priority. Show good steward ship. 

I found an incredible amount of rock here in Connecticut. 

Hey Freerida' ! Stay COOL! No ,..., wait . ... .. ., ,nah... See you in September ?

Michael Schneider wrote: I found an incredible amount of rock here in Connecticut.

would be very interested in discussing enhancing public access at Green Pond. Various reasons climbing access did not evolve. Will not trouble you w/ the malarky, thats for sure. Trust your understanding. There is an interest in enhancing access at GP. John Anderson

I live nearby in Ringwood and am interested in helping out with this cause if possible.  Feel free to touch base if you want to to chat or have any ideas...

That's to funny - I swear I was just thinking of looking at this ole' thing!

Tom P,  there's nothing to do but go climbing , keep it low key be carful and respectful. The less interaction with established state blow hards the better 

Ringwood? That's Weiss Ecology Center, The Pizza Face &  Pine Paddies - territory, - have you check'd that out ? ( I sent Michael C, from the 1st pages of this thread, a Xeroxd mini-guide.)

&

Hey -  jia! Get In touch life's to short!

I am aware of the Ecology center and have hikes and ridden bikes in the vicinity...but I have not checked out any climbs.  Do you have any digital info?

Thanks for reaching out Michael.  I appreciate the insight.  I wish I had a ton of free time to explore down there more.  If I do decide to head down I will let you know.  Maybe we can meet up.  FYI I climbed bolts at Thatcher outside of Albany Sunday and it was decent.  Nice crag they are developing up there.  Limestone was a trip!  Tom

I go by GP twice a day, I've heard its real crap rock from some but I've never seen for myself.

@All - 

I don't think it's visited for climbing, but if by Green Pond, NJ you mean the private lake past Craigmeur into the private community (right onto Johnson Rd).  1- this is private land.  Not just private for climbing access, but it is a private community like a golf course.  Exclusive/guardhouse/etc... and they drive golf carts around in the community.  I mean, I don't care and won't narc you out if you sneak in to try and climb.  There are no restrictions on climbing if you're a member or visiting a member but..... 2- WARNING! the rock is shit rotten and not solid at all.

Here's the beta on the private land...

I'm an avid climber now.  Grew up at the Seven Sisters.  As a kid, I scrambled around the whole lake and did the traverse.  Not bad and kind of fun.  Mega sketchy if you go upwards though - like up to blue rock.  It was fine when we were young, but erosion and traffic has made it kind of sketchy.  Further up the west shore, I was scrambling up with a buddy once.  I yarded on a hold, tested it, weighted it, did a move.  Fine.  Then my buddy followed, yarded on the same hold, and the watermelon sized thing pulled off and took him with it.  Only thing that saved him was a tree he landed up against instead of falling down the scramble mini boulder slope.  The rock has mud caked in between the cracks in a lot of the rock.  So much of it is pry-able.  Super fucking choss.

When I got into climbing (legit - Gunx, Rumney, Colorado, etc) I tried to see what was available for gear, TR, and bouldering lakeside.  I rapped down in several spots from the fire road above the west shore.  It was a nightmare.  Horrible vegetation, prickers everywhere, no definitive edge or end to routes.  Nothing I'd want to rope up for.  The bouldering also looked like it might have had potential from the water, but there's nothing worth it.  Sure, maybe some barefoot v0's at EKD or other spots if the water is deep enough and you don't hit something below.  I kept exploring and wishing our little community had some gems.  But I found nothing.  Maybe I'll check out the other posts in this MP section to see if there's stuff near split rock or outside of the lake community next time I'm up there.

But just a heads up, within the lake private community, it's garbage.  Any lakeside bouldering that could have holds or some problems on them are painted with graffiti as this seems to be a ridiculous "past time" tradition.  Given the community doesn't really care about the natural appearance of their lakeside rock formations, I'm sure chipping and drilling holds would be just fine.  Maybe I'll borrow a bosch from someone and bolt a crap line.  Breaks my heart every time I head up there in a boat.    

Anyway, I'm glad to know that climbers have even better ethics than the local residents.  Sure there might be ticks left or a stray piece of tape accidentally not picked up.  But even if you're a shithead and don't packout your TP waste or you're into chipping holds... at least, you're not into painting a big fucking grateful dead logo on a rock where you live.

Send hard, be safe.  Ping me if you have any more beta on this area or want to discuss.

- derek

Derek,

Not sure if anyone climbs directly behind Green Pond where you are talking about or not.  Most of the talk in this thread is about the two cliffs a bit further north and east of there.  The same cliff band, but on the other side of Notch Rd, and more so the cliff above/behind that behind Deerhaven Lane.  The white blazed four birds trail is at the top of this cliff.  I've done some exploring out that way on my bike, but I've not climbed either of the cliffs there though.  The first cliff appears to be owned by Morris County Parks, as part of the Craigmeur property, and the second is on Newark Watershed land.

-Jim

Michael Schneider wrote:

Ringwood? That's Weiss Ecology Center, The Pizza Face &  Pine Paddies - territory, - have you check'd that out ? ( I sent Michael C, from the 1st pages of this thread, a Xeroxd mini-guide.)

Another climber from Ringwood here. Is there a mini-guide to the area? I've done some wondering around in the woods and found some bouldering but nothing too good.

Tom P wrote:

I am aware of the Ecology center and have hikes and ridden bikes in the vicinity...but I have not checked out any climbs.  Do you have any digital info?

I got what Mike sent me, and can send it to you.  It's cool, old school stuff.  There's also info in the NJ Guidebook.  I'd like to check it out but the approach seems a bit confusing.  It's probably me, and not the description.  But if anyone has been there and can provide details/gps it would be helpful.  I think in the late fall it would be a good time to visit, as it's set back in the woods pretty far from what I have gathered. 

Dave 22 wrote:

I go by GP twice a day, I've heard its real crap rock from some but I've never seen for myself.

Andrew (the guy who I mentioned in the beginning of the thread) says it's ok. Lots of vegetation and loose rock, like most "adventure" climbing. It's not going to be as clean as well-travelled rock.  But that just means you all need to get out there and climb it more!

JimN wrote:

Derek,

Not sure if anyone climbs directly behind Green Pond where you are talking about or not.  Most of the talk in this thread is about the two cliffs a bit further north and east of there.  The same cliff band, but on the other side of Notch Rd, and more so the cliff above/behind that behind Deerhaven Lane.  The white blazed four birds trail is at the top of this cliff.  I've done some exploring out that way on my bike, but I've not climbed either of the cliffs there though.  The first cliff appears to be owned by Morris County Parks, as part of the Craigmeur property, and the second is on Newark Watershed land.

-Jim

Jim - cool.  I kinda know that spot.  Used to mountain bike up that hill to the look out.  I remember Craigmeur getting on their PA and yelling at us.  Will have to check out the second cliff next time I'm home.  Thanks, D

Derek Young wrote:

Jim - cool.  I kinda know that spot.  Used to mountain bike up that hill to the look out.  I remember Craigmeur getting on their PA and yelling at us.  Will have to check out the second cliff next time I'm home.  Thanks, D

Cool man, hit me up next time you're home if you want to ride.  I've explored all over the place from Wildcat and Splitrock to Green Pond and further north.

Hello All

Just would like to chime in on GP cliffs, have been in and out of there for past 2+ years and would love a copy of min guid. 

Last TR at Jenga Aug. 

Keep up the dialogue everyone:)

Every state, county & town has it's own way of doing things. Unfortunately if you are actively trying to get an area opened up for access you have to play ball on how that government entity chooses to do the process. If you have ever dealt with the politics of town & county officials in this state it is an incredibly painful process! I am not personally involved in the process at Green Pond but out of respect for the folks who are putting in countless hours doing so, Don't climb there outside of the current rules in place till they are able to accomplish what they are trying to do. Thatcher state park in NY state took over 4 years, Sourlands in NJ now has a yearly comp at it as a few examples once a place is properly open. Opening access takes time for goverment to open to the idea, adjust and embrace it. All it takes is one person injuring themselves during the probation period and the process goes back to square one and therefore has an impact on other areas that may be under consideration. Please for the sake of all the work involved do not jepordize the efforts being put forward to get a place open for everyone just because you had to go climb there before everyone else. 

Nicholas Hernandez wrote:

Don't climb there outside of the current rules in place till they are able to accomplish what they are trying to do.

Excellent advice.
So now that this thread has been going more than four years . . . 

What are the "current" rules?

Who is "they" who are "able to accomplish"?
Do they have a page to tell us current status or current rules?

Ken

Nicholas H

The search for first routes is not who I am, this has been my home for 50+ years.

Seeing new life to the area inspires me to share some of my early learning spaces with like minded people.

And to note we are not the teenagers spray painting our names or continuing to dump and party at these places.

Live within the spirit of the law, leave no trace, and most of all be safe.