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First time in Chaos, need some tips

Original Post
Adam Bazydlo · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 186

Heading there this August, will be a weekday but I only have 2 days. What's the most logical area to hit for some good moderates? Was seeing an abundance of climbs near Dream Lake, figured I'd start over there since it's close to parking 

Patrick Bodnar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 416

Visit Emerald Lake one day and Lower Chaos the other. Lower Chaos definitely has a better concentration of classics, but it also has some harder stuff you might want to work, so keep that in mind and go there when you think you'll climb the strongest. 

Some awesome climbs worth checking out at each...

Emerald Lake:

The Kind V5 (must-do), Tiger Stripes V5, The Cube Boulder (which has a couple 5's and 6's), and Kneebar V6.

Lower Chaos:

Potato Chip Layback V3 (must-do IMO), Potato Chip V7, Autobot V5 (ultra scenic), Tommy's Arete V7 (must-do!), Skyscraper V5 (at least look at this epic highball), and Deep Puddle Arete V5. 

Hope that helps! 

BruceH · · New Harmony, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 45

I'm planning a mid/late July visit.  I'd like to work on Tommy's and other good stuff easier than that.  I know that Tommy's requires (at least for mortals) a bunch of pads/spotters; given that I'll be solo, would I be better of going on a weekend?  Or are there generally enough folks around Chaos during the week?  Are there at least a few high quality moderates that are reasonably safe to climb solo?  Thanks and apologies if I've hijacked the thread.   

Patrick Bodnar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 416

Bruce, there are a decent amount of moderates that are fine for a solo mission, but many classics have questionable landings. If you are able to get around easily during your visit, you may want to visit some other climbing areas with better landings, including lower ones in RMNP (maybe Wild Basin or Moraine), during the week, and save some climbs (like Tommy's) for the weekend, just in case. 

Also, you can always post in the Colorado forum to see if any groups would like to meet you there, or feel free to see what I'm up to when you're in the area: 720-862-4792.

RobG814 · · Wilmington, NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 335

I will also be out there late July and am hoping to get on some of the classics. I was planning on renting two pads and hoping that would be enough to get by, but it sounds like it might be better to look for a group for some of the stuff up there. Really want to get on Tommys as long as my finger heals up in time!

Patrick Bodnar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 416

Rob, you'll probably want to climb with other people, but groups are easy to find, especially at Tommy's. Two pads is probably fine if you have a decent spotter, three is comfortable. I'm definitely down to session Tommy's with some first-timers, it's siiick!

RobG814 · · Wilmington, NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 335

Right on Patrick! I'm really hoping I can get my finger back in shape in time. I have 4 weeks so I'm pretty confident that I will be good to go. I'll hit you up!

PCowan · · Loveland, Co · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

Just a FYI on weekends bear lake lot will likely be full around 7am and even the shuttle lot can be full mid morning.

As mentioned upthread I'd say emerald is the easiest to find of the areas and has the best landings. Certainly worthy of a full day.

For chaos your best bet for fun is to get someone who knows the area to show your around. The guide book is accurate but it's still a talus field with not super concentrated problems. Amazing area enjoy!

pm me when it's a few weeks out and I'll see if I can't get up there, Atlanta transplant myself! 

Adam Bazydlo · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 186

So Emerlad Lake easily accessible? Great! You've all been super helpful. 

Is problem finding pretty easy or should I consider getting my hands on a guide book 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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