Crampon to Boot Fitment (and secondary point position)?

I think this should be way better.  Any thoughts?  I can push them even further forward with the other bail position, but then the actual body of the crampon starts to get really close to the front ot the boot.

I noticed a massive jump in confidence on WI4-5 (tr) going from petzl vasaks with bd small bail to g20s. I would kick boot into ice when it was chendaliered with the petzls and I never felt secure when it got vertical. The g20s were a dream on steep and featured ice, however I didn't like them as much on low angle to wi3

Hi Kyle,

      You are on the right track.  Just like in rock climbing the idea is to get as much of your body weight onto your legs and feet as possible.  Even with the strength of Hercules no climber can keep pulling up with his/her arms on his/her tools forever.  So in technical ice climbing getting your weight onto your legs and feet is a question of optimizing your boot/crampon/points combination and configuration.  I have been working to optimize my setup for decades and still find myself making small adjustments every year.  There is a sweet spot for you to find that relates to how far back your boots are relative to your crampon points.  At one time I went too far and found that the leverage on my calves was too much and downright painful.  But too short and you have the problem you encountered and are now in the process of solving.  From your pictures you make a significant improvement.  But do not stop there.  Consider other adjustments--the side spacing on your rear bails (the gap between the bail and the boot--reduce the gap to minimize side shifting of the boot), the side spacing on your front bails (same thing--minimize boot shifting side to side when it sits on the crampon), trying points from other manufacturers (might need to drill some new alignment holes), etc.  The goal is to optimize your setup so you get as much of your weight off your tools as you can, and in turn, this will boost your confidence and endurance on the hard leads--test various combinations by simply standing on a stair step with just your points and maybe about a 30 lbs., pack on--a dozen or so adjustments down the road and you will have a good setup that works for you.  Best of luck!

Cheers,

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.