Best camping in Leavenworth?

I have a trip planned to the icicle creek. Any advice on the best and closest camping close to the walls?

Where did you plan on climbing? Or just in general?

Get there early. We arrived mid afternoon on a Friday and the first several campgrounds were all full. We ended up at Upper Johnny Creek Campground which was Ok but required driving to climb each day. The Eight Mile Campground is the closest to Leavenworth and has climbing within hiking distance but it was full it seemed like it would be hard to get a spot, many of the sites can be reserved online. Good luck, fun climbing once you get there.

If 8mile is full try the bridgecreek campground. A few more miles up the road at the turn for the Stuart Lake trailhead. There is some free camping passed the campground, across the bridge on the left.

If you are camping in a vehicle its usually cool to sleep in the lot just above Barneys Rubble.

You can also camp at the Forestland Boulders lot for free, but it's not exactly scenic...

Edit: looks like things have changed. Don't camp there. Been a few years. Free camping across the creek from Bridge Creek can either be pleasant or an utter gong show, don't count on it being pleasant on a weekend.

Camping at the Forestland lot as far as I know is frowned upon and as of late has been patrolled.

Thanks guys. Sounds like there are a lot of options. It will be my first time there. Where do you recommend climbing going for 5.10 and under?

Josh Carpenter wrote:Thanks guys. Sounds like there are a lot of options. It will be my first time there. Where do you recommend climbing going for 5.10 and under?

For trad: outer space (5.9, 5 pitches) snow creek wall. Splitter!!! Crux is short and not that bad, the rest of the climbing is 5.8 or less

For sport: condorphamine addiction (5.10b, 7 pitches). Super fun jaunt, lots of safe bolts, well protected cruxes. 2 5.10 pitches, the rest are easier.

There are some short fun multi-pitch routes in Icicle Creek Butress. These are great intro to trad leads. There are 5.6 to 5.8 and harder

Outer Space is great, but if 5.9 trad is your limit I wouldn't recommend it. The crux is short but somewhat finicky. Gear at the crux is good, but there are also some lose flakes to negotiate.

Pearly gates are a great crag for your range. Even have some fun bolted climbs.

Castle Rock: Catapult, The Bone, South Face Jello into Midway, Canary... all some of my favorites in the area, all under 5.10, all really steep, exposed, and fun for the grades.

+1 for Castle Rock, and Clem's Holler is also loaded with good 9s and 10s. Neither tends to be very crowded...

...unlike Outer Space. It is super classic, so go on a week day and be prepared to do Orbit if you don't want to wait in line. Beautiful season to visit Lworth!