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Standard Rack for Lovers Leap/ Tahoe area

Original Post
Justin G88 · · Leavenworth · Joined May 2015 · Points: 230

Kinda new to the trad game, I have a small rack (Camelots .5-3 and a set of nuts). I would like to figure out what I would need for some of the classics out there. Small cams? a #4 or #5 maybe?

What do you guys rack?

Thanks for your help

simplyput . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

Depends what you're getting on. For longer routes with unknown belays I ussually carry C4s .3-3.5 doubling up on 1s and 2s and a set of nuts with some extras in the larger size nuts. Sometimes I'll also bring MasterCams from 00-3 if I think I need smaller/supplemental pieces.
But I'm a pussy who doesn't mind some extra weight.

wcayler · · Salt Lake · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 224

My partner and I climb with a double rack of cams (small and large sizes), a set of stoppers and 6ish alpine draws. Once we have done a route we slim down the rack, I also don't really think there is much of weight difference from a single rack with doubles in 1-2 vs a full double rack lots of the small cams don't weight much. We also do lots of the climbs in two pitches so the extra gear comes in handy.

Nat Heckathorn · · San Diego · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I lean heavily on stoppers (BD), racking singles 1-3, doubles 4-7, and triples 8-10. The Leap really does "eat nuts" and there are a handful of routes which I'd repeat with nothing but a double set of stoppers, there are just so many places to put them. This does require additional slings and free biners, but since I like to extend everything anyway, I'm already swimming in extra webbing.

Double cams are nice to have, especially 0.75 - 3, but I can't imagine wanting or needing the 4 or 5 on most routes at the Leap. Sometimes route beta will call out what you need for each belay, and if you remember those details and keep pieces in reserve, you can stretch a limited rack pretty far.

Small cams (master cams, X4s, aliens) are a great shortcut for the occasional awkward situation where you don't want to take the time and energy to find a clever placement. I wouldn't call them essential for the classics, but they are handy, and light. Also, expensive. If you're slowly building your rack, you might consider hexes and/or tricams as a cost-effective way to flush out your coverage across all the sizes. They have their haters (and they really can be awkward), but they are cheap. And routes at the Leap are no strangers to hexes.

K R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81

I climbed in the Sierra for many seasons with:

  • 1 set Metolious power cams #0-10
  • 1 set standard nuts
  • 1 pink and 1 red Tricam
  • Couple of hexes just larger than the largest nuts.

Double cams are nice, but usually a "standard rack" doesn't mean doubles.

When in doubt, look at the guidebooks. They usually define "standard rack", and supertopo gives detailed gear recommendations (which I find to usually be more than what's needed).

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

The only thing I would add is: who are you going to be climbing with? Chances are likely that you'll be mostly climbing with people who are more experienced than you (hopefully - definitely a good idea in the beginning) who will have racks of their own. If this is the case, doubles probably won't be necessary.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 23,789

Pro to 3". 1 set standard nuts, 1 set micros.

That will see you up 90% of what Tahoe has to offer.

Before you leave the ground, remember... Less is better!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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