Linville Gorge (Mummy/Daddy)

Thinking about heading to try these out next weekend if the weather permits it. From what I've read it "The Mummy" seems like the better line. I liked the idea I read of climbing "The Mummy" then rapping to the 3rd pitch of the "Daddy". I've been to Linville once, but only to Table Rock.

How accurate is the MP Location description for getting to the Amphitheater?

What is the rapping situation like?

Any cool advice, or must do routes for the trip?

Thanks,

Nick

Both routes are fun. I prefer the Daddy--definitely do the whole route. Bring plenty of water this time of year. The beta is fine. You can also take a faint trail left (as you are facing the gorge) once you hit the flat rock. It contours to the top of the mummy/daddy buttress. You can stash gear there and rap down the gully behind the buttress to the base, then have less of a climb out at the end of the day. That said, if you've not been there before, the straight in gully approach may be the easiest/most obvious.

I think that the Mummy is more sustained (at the grade) but the daddy has a more natural line with lots of interesting features. The Daddy is better, especially with the direct 5.8 variation. You won't be able to rap to the third pitch of the Daddy without leaving gear anchors. The best thing to do would be to climb the Daddy, rap the descent gully then climb out on the prow. Or add any number of other routes on the way (Mummy, etc...)

The prow ends right at the approach trail. The description for the trail is quite accurate, watch for the quartz block.

I heard you can climb the daddy in chacos, and the mummy has a real mummified bobcat somewhere on the third pitch

If you get out early you can climb both routes and stay in the shade - sun starts to hit the top of the Daddy a little after 12pm. Routes descriptions in NC Select Climbs and on MP should be more than enough info to get you to the base, though the approach seems to get the best of some first time visitors.

Dave Wise wrote:Both routes are fun. I prefer the Daddy--definitely do the whole route. Bring plenty of water this time of year. The beta is fine. You can also take a faint trail left (as you are facing the gorge) once you hit the flat rock. It contours to the top of the mummy/daddy buttress. You can stash gear there and rap down the gully behind the buttress to the base, then have less of a climb out at the end of the day. That said, if you've not been there before, the straight in gully approach may be the easiest/most obvious.

Alexander K wrote:I think that the Mummy is more sustained (at the grade) but the daddy has a more natural line with lots of interesting features. The Daddy is better, especially with the direct 5.8 variation. You won't be able to rap to the third pitch of the Daddy without leaving gear anchors. The best thing to do would be to climb the Daddy, rap the descent gully then climb out on the prow. Or add any number of other routes on the way (Mummy, etc...) The prow ends right at the approach trail. The description for the trail is quite accurate, watch for the quartz block.

Jonathan Dull wrote:If you get out early you can climb both routes and stay in the shade - sun starts to hit the top of the Daddy a little after 12pm. Routes descriptions in NC Select Climbs and on MP should be more than enough info to get you to the base, though the approach seems to get the best of some first time visitors.

Thanks for the info guys!

Patrick Wilder wrote:I heard you can climb the daddy in chacos, and the mummy has a real mummified bobcat somewhere on the third pitch

Awesome, that will help with the heat. As for the Bobcat, I don’t giva damn.

Jonathan Dull wrote: though the approach seems to get the best of some first time visitors.

It definitely confused me. I tried to get to the rap station from the trail and both times I just ended up walking to the base of the climb instead. The beta about the quartz block is spot on. Like Alexander said, climbing out on The Prow is a good choice if you decide to walk to the start of The Mummy or Daddy. Getting down there is hard enough, I can't imagine hiking up that trail.