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Ted Pinson
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Jul 1, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Metamorphic rock will do it to you.
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mountainhick
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Jul 1, 2016
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Black Hawk, Franktown, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
Varies significantly depending on where I am climbing. When hanging climbing near home this is the rack I take to Eldo, but if I know the climb often pare it down from this gear or add appropriate extra C4s: -assortment of nuts, total amounts to more than 2 sets... -one set of BD #3 to #11, -one set of DMM offsets, -a few mid size misc nuts, -one set of DMM peanuts, -assorted brassies/HB offsets -0.5, 1 and 1.5 tricams All racked on three biners. -Small cams: Totem basics blue through red and/or Metolius TCUs 00-3. Rack these sets together on single biner/set. C4 0.4-3, doubles 0.75,1,2. Add others for specific climbs. C4s racked on CAMP photon color coded biners EDIT: I got more trad runners, eliminated the QDs for trad climbing, so 15 trad runners, 2 of them with light locker on rope end., plus a couple double runners over the shoulder with lockers. a couple extra lockers Big belay biner, DMM pivot, belay gloves third hand (currently sterling hollowblock) Nut tool multi pitch: wind/rain shell and sometimes cordellete with locker. Descent shoes for walk offs.
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Ted Pinson
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Jul 1, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Your rack is pretty similar to mine (albeit bigger). How well does it work for you to keep the totems on 1 cam? Right now I have 1 per biner and clip 'em together...nice for anchors and racking but does take up a lot of space.
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mountainhick
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Jul 1, 2016
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Black Hawk, Franktown, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
Re: bigger rack, I don't carry all of it all the time. It's what I pack in my pack for an Eldo day. 4 or 5 small cams on 1 biner works just fine for me.
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Brian L.
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Jul 2, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 90
mountainhick wrote: 4 or 5 small cams on 1 biner works just fine for me. if you're racking multiple cams to one biner are you always putting a sling on them?
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mountainhick
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Jul 2, 2016
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Black Hawk, Franktown, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
Brian L. wrote: if you're racking multiple cams to one biner are you always putting a sling on them? almost always unless I am in splitterville. It is a rare placement that a small cam won't move/walk without extending, and small cams tend to get stuck or walk out of placements easier than larger cams. I want my placements to stay where I put them even when the rope goes tight through the line of pro
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Ted Pinson
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Jul 2, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
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Gabe Cisneros
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Jul 23, 2016
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Baltimore, md
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 15
Dragon cams 1-5 (double #5) on camp nano22 Totem cams blue-red on camp nano22 Set of BD stopper 4-13 (doubled medium sizes with wallnuts) Double set of tricam Evo .5-1.5 10 alpine draws with camp nano 22s Two double length nylon slings 1 each 7mm and 6mm cordelette 120mm BD dynex sling Hollowblock ATC guide And a couple extra BD lockers and no lockers I have a set of torque nuts but only take them if I'm feeling loud. Works for the Gunks and MD/PA areas
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JK- Branin
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Jul 23, 2016
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NYC-ish
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 56
Virtually every time: BD C4 .3-2 On oz biners BD stopper 4-13 split between two biners DMM offset stopper set Nut tool Belay/rap gizmo on a biner 4 lockers some Yosemite draws More often than not I'll add: BD C4 #3 Tricam evo set BD x4 .1 & .2 Sometimes I'll add: Doubles on cams .5-2 (omega pacific link cams) Cams #4 or bigger Rarely but it happens: Triples on .5-2 (C4s or UL C4s) Doubles or triples on select other size cams (mix of C3, C4, X4) Doubles of nuts (frost sentinels) Screamers Things that are basically wasting my closet space: Hexes Metolious TCUs Offset X4s Climb Tech Tech Nuts (Large slider nuts) Things I very rarely need but I like to take for funsies somtimes: Slider nuts (Lowe Balls in the small sizes) Big tricams
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Brian L.
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Jul 23, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 90
JK- wrote:Yosemite draws That's a new one for me. I assume this is what you call an alpine draw (trad draw to some)?
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Brie Abram
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Jul 23, 2016
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Celo, NC
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 493
I first learned about alpine draws from someone who called them slowdraws. I've used this term ever since, but apparently no one else uses it. Is "slowdraw" a term anyone else has heard or uses?
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eli poss
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Jul 23, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
If I don't know what I'll need this is generally what I take Note that the supercam will be replaced with an orange totem as soon as it arrives and will join the gear in the 2nd photo. I don't dislike the supercam (although some of my partners do), I just like the orange totem better.
If I have an idea of what I'll need I may subtract stuff and/or add some of this
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JK- Branin
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Jul 24, 2016
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NYC-ish
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 56
Brian L. wrote: That's a new one for me. I assume this is what you call an alpine draw (trad draw to some)? Same thing.
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Colonel Mustard
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Jul 24, 2016
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
mountainhick wrote: 4 or 5 small cams on 1 biner works just fine for me. I've only climbed with one person who does this. I gotta say, it's off-putting. Camalots for me in the .5"-6" sizes, mostly. Sometimes I'll take the green and yellow link cams out for a stroll. Confidence level is not as much as for the BD pieces, but I've rocked these numbers for years. There's the forged stem friend, of course. That 3.5" size, a nice prelude to some gentle fist fucking. Finger-size cams range from C3 to Fixe Lites, including some mastercams, regular fixe aliens, DMM, mastercam, CCH alien... a real franken-rack of fingers, so perhaps Johnny Derp as Edward Camhands could appreciate the mish mas of lobes. I just added DMM pee nuts to the mix. Daddy likes. The offset aluminum DMM/HB Copy for my mainstay of stoppers works great. Some brass offsets to fit the most slim of pickings about does her.
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Bill Kirby
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Jul 24, 2016
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
Just looked in my tote and: BD C4 .3-4 doubles 1-3 WC New Friends .5-4 Totems black-red BD X4 doubles .1 .2-.75 Aliens black-red TCUs 00-4 BD nuts 4-13 DMM offsets
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EJN
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Jul 24, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 273
Hooks. Duct Tape. Double sided tape for tricky hook/tape placements. Deck screws for soft rock. Quicklinks for racking. Cable-knit sweater for padding the hip belays. Polyester boat rope. Used on alpine dirt.
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eli poss
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Jul 24, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
Bill Kirby wrote:Just looked in my tote and: BD C4 .3-4 doubles 1-3 WC New Friends .5-4 Totems black-red BD X4 doubles .1 .2-.75 Aliens black-red TCUs 00-4 BD nuts 4-13 DMM offsets Jeez, how do you climb with all that weight? That's Luke a triple set of cams
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Bill Kirby
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Jul 24, 2016
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
eli poss wrote: Jeez, how do you climb with all that weight? That's Luke a triple set of cams I ask myself that everytime I rack up! Er, wait, you talking bout my gear?
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FrankPS
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Jul 24, 2016
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
eli poss wrote: Jeez, how do you climb with all that weight? That's Luke a triple set of cams Who's Luke? I thought it might mean "like" but the L was capitalized. Maybe the joys of autocorrect?
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eli poss
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Jul 24, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
FrankPS wrote: Who's Luke? I thought it might mean "like" but the L was capitalized. Maybe the joys of autocorrect? damn auto carrot...
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