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Suggestion: New Section of MP.com - The Science of Climbing

Original Post
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35

I suggest a new section be added to the School of Rock section of MP.com called The Science of Climbing. There seems to be a growing interest in the science/physics/math/engineering of climbing as seen by activity in the forums. The articles would provide some background knowledge into the science aspects but also provide some usable take-away information. The main intent would be general knowledge and entertaining people's inner climbing nerd but it could also help people understand some of the technical jargon thrown around in the forums. Some of my suggested topics would be:
-Fall Factor: What is it and what does it mean to a climber?
-The american death triangle, a general look at the static forces in anchors
-The difference between carbon steel, plated steel, and stainless steel
-The difference between general corrosion and SCC
-Is aluminum stronger than steel stronger than titanium?
-A general introduction to metallurgy
-A general introduction to plastics/nylon
-Cam shape and logarithmic spirals
-UIAA: Industry standards for climbing gear
-Basics of geology and plate tectonics

Some of the topics to stay away from because its really beyond the scope of School or Rock would be:
-No hard and fast guidance (ie Should I use platted/SS/Ti for bolts)
-No "gear review" type articles and nothing regarding specific companies
-No "is this specific setup safe" type articles

In the end the articles would be meant for general information, not a technical reference.

I am an engineer (and can provide credentials) and would be happy to write the articles and others may be as well. I could get most of the articles to a 80/20 or 90/10 finished state but they would require review to ensure accuracy by experts (inside and outside the climbing industry), some of which frequent this site. Their review may be a show stopper as it would require getting a hold of them in the first place, their time, and getting their review may be challenging logistically but I'd be willing to try.

If there is interest please let me know.

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

I would love this!

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,958
Mike Slavens wrote:I suggest a new section be added to the School of Rock section of MP.com called The Science of Climbing. There seems to be a growing interest in the science/physics/math/engineering of climbing ... Some of my suggested topics would be: -Fall Factor: What is it and what does it mean to a climber? -The american death triangle, a general look at the static forces in anchors -The difference between carbon steel, plated steel, and stainless steel -The difference between general corrosion and SCC -Is aluminum stronger than steel stronger than titanium? -A general introduction to metallurgy -A general introduction to plastics/nylon -Cam shape and logarithmic spirals -UIAA: Industry standards for climbing gear -Basics of geology and plate tectonics Some of the topics to stay away from because its really beyond the scope of School or Rock would be: -No hard and fast guidance (ie Should I use platted/SS/Ti for bolts) -No "gear review" type articles and nothing regarding specific companies -No "is this specific setup safe" type articles In the end the articles would be meant for general information, not a technical reference. I am an engineer (and can provide credentials) and would be happy to write the articles and others may be as well. I could get most of the articles to a 80/20 or 90/10 finished state but they would require review to ensure accuracy by experts (inside and outside the climbing industry), some of which frequent this site. Their review may be a show stopper as it would require getting a hold of them in the first place, their time, and getting their review may be challenging logistically but I'd be willing to try. If there is interest please let me know.

I like the idea, but the title "Science" seems incorrect. I would say that topics like these are not at all science, but engineering. So, perhaps "Engineering aspects of climbing".

I acknowledge that my traditional view of science as the subject of understanding how the world works has been rapidly losing ground in popular usage in which science = anything technical. But I can hope, can't I?

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I think this should be complimented by an FAQ section:

First trad rack
TR anchor set up
Where to camp at Jtree
Etc

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
Jon Nelson wrote: I like the idea, but the title "Science" seems incorrect.

Agreed. I picked "science" for two reasons though. 1) Terms like engineering, physics, trigonometry and the like tend to intimidate or bore people away. I'd like the section to be inviting and show that what appears to be a complex subject can be understood be almost anyone with a good explanation. 2) I'm an engineer and so the subjects that come to mind for me are going to be engineering related. However I'm sure there are subjects out there that aren't engineering related but would still be relevant and interesting. Things that come to mind are geology, weather/climate, and kinesiology.

However I'm open to whatever title makes the most sense. Maybe "Basic Engineering for Climbers" or "Mechanics of Climbing" would be more appropriate.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306
Mike Slavens wrote: Maybe "Basic Engineering for Climbers" or "Mechanics of Climbing" would be more appropriate.

"Mechanics of Climbing" seems like a good choice to me.

C Limenski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15

Regardless of what it's called this would be a great addition to the site.

As a non-engineer but educated person interested in climbing I lean towards the science of climbing or the mechanics of climbing as being both intriguing and approachable.
Engineering of climbing directs my thoughts immediately to things like the manufacture of hardware or placing of bolts, which are interesting in their own right but a different subject.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

This would NOT be a forum of "climbing", but "of climbing gear". It'd be like a forum of "cycling", but instead of talking about watts, cadence, body position, training, etc, it'll be all about measurbating the weight of each bike component.

Shannon Davis · · Lyons, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 140

Cool ideas. I'm working on developing content like this for MP. Any of you know anyone with an engineering mind who can also write? If so, send them my way! shannon@adventureprojects.net

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Here is some interesting science: unews.utah.edu/theoretical-…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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