Lyons/South Fork St. Vrain Canyon climbing info

I am planning on checking out some moderate trad or sport climbs in the Lyons area, specifically in the South Fork of the St. Vrain Canyon.

Does anyone have recent climbing experience in that area they could share?

I don't hear many people in Boulder talking about climbing up there and what I have heard (from climbers who may or may not like adventure climbing) is that its not worth the rattle snakes, poison ivy, and chossy routes.

I live in Longmont so it seems a shame not to check out that canyon. And I personally love adventure climbing so if the approach is a bit insane Im totally down.

Thanks
Rob

Go to the monkey skull first. Great selection of climbs, steep but short approach. Faces west so it gets morning shade.

I've really enjoyed climbing in the SSV Canyon. The crags are mostly pretty small and some are tricky to get to, but not all. Scout Rock is right off the road, and the Observatory is almost the same (short scramble). Lower, Upper and Left Infirmary Slabs are pretty easy to access and have no river crossing. The Coliseum, Arch of Titus, and Pantheon have a Tyrol traverse. I really enjoyed The Coliseum.

Scout Rock is, imo, the obvious place to start.

Thanks for the info!

I have been there twice this spring. First time to the coliseum, and then to the infirmary slabs. The Coliseum was great, with some good moderate trad lines. The infirmary slabs were so so, and lots of poison ivy on the approach. Overall it can beat dealing with crowds if you are looking for something different.

I live in Longmont also, and the previous commenters have been mostly right on. Holiday weekends have been really reasonable compared to the crowds in Eldo and Boulder Canyon.

+1 to the Monkey Skull. "Sunshine Dihedral" is great, as is "Upside the Cranium"

Definitely looking forward to exploring more up there...

I've lived in the Lyons area for the past 3 years. I love SSV and actually prefer it to the jam packed BoCan crags.

+1 for Monkey Skull: Upside the Cranium and Casual Corner are two of my favorite routes.

+1 for watching for poison ivy. Monkey Skull and Infirmary Slabs (imo) are almost impossible to get to after the Spring rains. I haven't been out there this year, but last year I pretty much stopped going to Upper Infirmary Slabs after May until the fall.

+1 for Collesium. Some really fun routes here. Especially if you drop in do the top pitch of Lost In Time. Do Handcrack-a-rete to get to the top and then rap in for P2 of Lost in Time.

If you're ever interested in going out just let me know.

What is the current poison ivy situation at the Monkey Skull? Can it be avoided?

Mathias wrote:The Coliseum, Arch of Titus, and Pantheon have a Tyrol traverse.

Is there really a tyrol at the The Coliseum? There wasn't last time I was there (last year, I think) and I thought tyrols were frowned upon in S Vrain, as the idea was to keep it a bit adventurous.

The Coliseum Tyrol is cherry.

Xam wrote: Is there really a tyrol at the The Coliseum? There wasn't last time I was there (last year, I think) and I thought tyrols were frowned upon in S Vrain, as the idea was to keep it a bit adventurous.

There was last time I was there, maybe 2 months ago. Well set up too, from what can tell.

I haven't noticed anyone else suggest Scout Rock. What's up with that? Rock quality, route quality?

J Marsella wrote:Tyrol was there 2weeks ago. Dips in the middle significantly with heavier climbers. Difficult to dismount for shorties.

I wonder how much the rope stretches over time. I had a pack on when I crossed so I'm guessing over 250lbs easy, but it didn't seem bad when I did it. Is the dismount rock on the far side still there?

J Marsella wrote: Scout is fine for getting a feel of SSV rock or for a quick jaunt, but the proximity to the roadway and only fair-to-middling route quality are detractors.

I hear what you're saying. It just seems to me to be a better place for moderates than Monkey Skull which seems only to have one route under 5.10 (though a few of them sound and look very nice). Scout also seems like a good "taster" outing for the SSV without having do bushwack or cross the river.

river is pretty low, just wade across.

Last minute request for a partner for tomorrow Friday July 15 for any of the above crags? I just got stood up...

Aaron Mojica wrote:What is the current poison ivy situation at the Monkey Skull? Can it be avoided?

Yes, with care the poison ivy can be avoided. I was just up there on Tuesday and none were able to touch their shiny devastation leaves to my skin.