Sharkstooth, Blitzen Ridge Conditions?

Anyone been up into Loch Vale yet this summer season? Wondering how the approach is and if Sharkstooth itself is clear of most snow. Also, anyone been up to Blitzen Ridge the last few weeks?

I'm sure a laborious early season approach is ahead but can't wait to get into the alpine!

I was up at Zowie on Saturday and Sharkstooth looked climbable (free of snow on the main rock portion). There was a boot track up to the base so someone has at least made the hike. The approach is fully snow covered and getting to the gash may involve some post holing. Snow shoes may be a good idea for the amount of snow you have to cover.

Also, if you are comfortable with alpine 5.8+, Zowie is a great climb (with the direct start and finger crack finish). Definitely better than Sharkstooth IMO.

Hard pack snow trail to the Loch a week ago. Most of the traffic goes left to Sky Pond, but a decent number of people have gone up the Gash. The biggest problem we had a week ago was that the bootpack kept zig-zagging across the creek heading up to the Gash and it was all melting out.

Haven't been up to Ypsilon this year, but in years past I've gone around this time and typically encountered: dry, snow-free trail from TH past the river crossing and up the slope until you reach a little bit of a clearing. From there I've had continuous (and deep) snow all the way to Spectacles Lake and have had some navigation difficulties without a GPS.

James, yea I did Blitzen Ridge last year around this time and the last mile and a half was brutal post-holing and we experienced some snow near the summit and that in itself is an experience in summer alpine soloing.

Seems like its not bad in the Loch, its a hot week so hopefully more and more snow will melt. Seems like it gets pretty wet for the descents in the noon/afternoon times.

Anyone planning on being up in the Loch on something this weekend?

The snow is still quite deep out there but here is a shot of Blitzen and Donner from the SE Ridge of Chiquita.

Just a heads up too if anyone is interested, the cornice at the top of the Y is fat as .... :-)

Legs Magillicutty wrote:Just a heads up too if anyone is interested, the cornice at the top of the Y is fat as .... :-)

You read my mind. Thanks!

Legs Magillicutty wrote:The snow is still quite deep out there but here is a shot of Blitzen and Donner from the SE Ridge of Chiquita. Just a heads up too if anyone is interested, the cornice at the top of the Y is fat as .... :-)

How's the trail to ypsilon? Mostly hiking or enough snow to skin?

James Kersey wrote: You read my mind. Thanks!

You bet. I should clarify that the photo and report on the Y is from just over 1 week ago.

James Kersey wrote: Haven't been up to Ypsilon this year, but in years past I've gone around this time and typically encountered: dry, snow-free trail from TH past the river crossing and up the slope until you reach a little bit of a clearing. From there I've had continuous (and deep) snow all the way to Spectacles Lake and have had some navigation difficulties without a GPS.

Our GPS crapped out and we got quite lost in the trees on the way down. We just kept heading south and it eventually worked out. Its a maze.

Don Ferris wrote: How's the trail to ypsilon? Mostly hiking or enough snow to skin?

We didn't go all the way up to Ypsilon Lake but headed NW from Chipmunk Lake up the slopes towards Chiquita. Snow began to get really annoying about 1-1.5 miles past the the Roaring River crossing. In the morning we were able to stay on top of it quite nice almost to Chipmunk. It soon got deep and the tracks ended so flotation was necessary since we were breaking trail. If there is a boot pack now up to Ypsilon Lake from Chipmunk, I'd personally skip the skis. Its been over a week since I was up there.

Legs Magillicutty wrote: Our GPS crapped out and we got quite lost in the trees on the way down. We just kept heading south and it eventually worked out. Its a maze.

It amazes me because that part of the trail is dead straight for miles, yet I still find it nearly impossible to follow if there's snow on the ground.

Legs Magillicutty wrote: We didn't go all the way up to Ypsilon Lake but headed NW from Chipmunk Lake up the slopes towards Chiquita. Snow began to get really annoying about 1-1.5 miles past the the Roaring River crossing. In the morning we were able to stay on top of it quite nice almost to Chipmunk. It soon got deep and the tracks ended so flotation was necessary since we were breaking trail. If there is a boot pack now up to Ypsilon Lake from Chipmunk, I'd personally skip the skis. Its been over a week since I was up there.

Thanks for the info. How was the river crossing?

Don Ferris wrote: Thanks for the info. How was the river crossing?

The water was moving fairly swift and calf to hip deep in spots. My partner bear crawled over a log and I went for the good old straddle technique. It wasn't too bad.

Legs Magillicutty wrote: The water was moving fairly swift and calf to hip deep in spots. My partner bear crawled over a log and I went for the good old straddle technique. It wasn't too bad.

Cool. This weekend will be my first time in the area. Is the log fairly easy to spot in the dark? We will be getting an early start. Also, if you have any other photos I'd like to see them to get a better feel on current snow conditions. Thanks a bunch.

Impossible to miss, unless something has changed drastically. Take the trail till it hits the river, turn upstream (right), walk a bit until you encounter giant tree laying across the river.

There used to also be a bit of a foot bridge just a tad downstream (left) of where the original crossing was, though it may be under water right now (or washed away) as it is much lower than the big tree upstream.

I'll be up in Loch Vale climbing the Sharkstooth this Saturday, I'll take some pictures of the approach/gash for reference. Judging from the heat this week its gonna be a wet one...

Climbed blitzen ridge yesterday. Had a blast and snow was only a minor inconvenience from chipmunk lake to ypsilon lake. At no point on the ridge was it mandatory to step in snow.

Oh man. Yeserday? I was gonna go up with a buddy but the weather forecast looked too ominous to be up on Blitzen, so we bailed and did a big linkup in the Flatirons instead (13 miles, ~2500' of climbing, then 15 pitches each at the BRC).

I guess I know what I'm doing next weekend!

Awesome Don!

Dylan Thomas TX wrote:I'll be up in Loch Vale climbing the Sharkstooth this Saturday, I'll take some pictures of the approach/gash for reference. Judging from the heat this week its gonna be a wet one...

Did you end up going to the Loch Dylan, any info on conditions?

Thomas H wrote: Did you end up going to the Loch Dylan, any info on conditions?

Approach is easily done in approach shoes or trail runners. A second pair of socks may be helpful. I can't speak for the Gash, but Skypond was easy firm snow. The bit around the falls could get interesting once the current snow bridge between the rock steps and snowfield collapses.