The Diamond...Anyone down?

I've been itching to climb the casual route on the Diamond for several years, but finally am confident enough to give it a go (thanks to a couple seasons in Indian Creek for getting me there!). Anyone out there game to rope up a climb it? I've got plenty of pro and would love to climb such a classic route. I lead 5.10+ trad, and 5.12 sport. Would prefer a partner that has done the route before but, as long as you've got the experience and can rig a bomber anchor with your eyes closed (although it's probably be safer to do it with your eyes open), I'm down.

I'm moving to Eagle in July but will be bumming around the front range until then and am leaning towards a weekend in July for the climb itself. Would prefer a few practice multi-pitch climbs in Eldo just to get comfy with a new partner beforehand.

Anyhow, let me know!

You should consider doing it on a weekday not a weekend. It can be a gangbang on the weekends.

^^^I have witnessed one of these gangbangs. I got to the top of the north chimney and there was a group of 10 with no clothes on. Super weird. A guy asked if I wanted to join. I declined(I am pretty soft core). But my girlfriend....

My self employed schedule completely agrees with that!

Unfortunately, most climbers out here seem to be on the weekend warrior schedule though so I figured it'd be easier to find someone. That being said, I'm totally down for weekday climbing and do prefer it over weekends anyhow.

On serious note. The casual is a good(very busy) route on a incredible alpine face. I hope you find a partner. As you probably know the north chimney can be a quite the hazardous approach. Its best to be first in it and climb with diligence and care. Good luck!

Or bivy at Chasm View, and rap into Broadway, or just bivy on Broadway. Thats what I plan to do next time. The 500 foot North Chimney solo or simo is dangerous if you have any careless climbers above you. Plus it kills time if your trying to get the climb done before any bad weather rolls in.

On a Thursday last season I bivied on Broadway and by 3am no fewer than 4 parties had rapped in to wait in line for sunrise. By the time the sun rose 6 parties stood in line... Good luck I hope you have better weekday luck than we did.

Ps I will never bivy on Broadway again in my life.

Michael - I'm available for weekday outings in July. I've done the Casual Route once before (maybe 4 years ago? yeesh..) and would be game to go again. I live in Boulder and am happy to climb in Eldo in the next week or so to see if a bigger objective makes sense. Some afternoon/evening next week? PM me if you're still looking.