Quickest to dry in NH - Cannon, White Horse, Cathedral

Anybody have suggestions for the best routes to climb after a week of on and off rain? I am looking to get out on Sunday, but I am not sure any of the bigger walls will be good to go.
My other requirements - at least 4 pitches and must be 5.7 or easier.

Dry ? or climb able ?

Most routes on the WH Slabs will be dry Standard and Sliding Board are very good but extra popular and Sliding is a bit stiff for 5.7

Cormier-magness a , newer line is very good and 5.6 sections are a bit run out, but not bad.

not much else <5.7 that's quality here.

You can do a link up at Cathedral of Funhouse/Refuse 5.7 (short section) but again very popular

There are several longer climbs in Crawford Notch that should be dry-ish and in your grade range

All those routes you mentioned are on my list, but I was essentially wondering which ones dry out the quickest. As far as climbable goes - climbable for a relatively new 5.7 leader.

The arch on WH Standard may be a bit wet, but you can do the Direct 5.6/7 a couple moves then run out this is always dry.A good way to pass others.

The Dike route is a decent easy line that is dry down low, you can rap after several pitches

W-G is a tough 5.7 actually a kinda 5.8 i think

Good luck

lukeweiss wrote:...climbable for a relatively new 5.7 leader.

Relatively new to leading or new to leading 5.7?
If the former, Cannon is not the best choice right now.

How about the eaglet? Though there may be falcon closures.

Zac, closed until August 1, I believe.
I don't feel up to leading all of Whitney g quite yet, (my Sunday partner doesn't lead) but if Lakeview was dry I would do it.

I think so,,, but really only one pitch of climbing

A really out there, fun climb ( doesn't top out though) is the first 3 pitches of Diagonal on Cathedral an easy dike on perfect stone in a wild location. It's a bit run out but 5.6 at the most and a spectacular rappel down the Mordor Wall ( 2 long raps with 2 ropes)

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/endeavour/106511942

Endeavour in Bartlett NH is a good choice for 5.7 more than 4 pitches.

Basically there has been virtually no rain, so pretty much everything is dry if it is not currently raining. Yes it has been "raining" off and on for a week, but my garden is wet down maybe 1/16 inch and I have been watering so the plants don't die.

Dry it will be.

Routes on Cannon tend to seep on the slabs and big wall. Lakeview is really nice climbing for four pitches, the the crap middle pitches due to the old man and then the last two are stellar. The last pitch is a grunt up the "man eater flake" (as I've always called it).

If you want solitude and adventure - the rock route on Percy Peak (north if I remember).

Oh yeah, Endeavor. I always forget about it for a fun longish route. Use halfs or bring an extra rope for rappels though.

...I've always finished to the top of Endeavor and walked off Zac! Oh, probably gonna stop by tomorrow!

Mark NH wrote:...I've always finished to the top of Endeavor and walked off Zac! Oh, probably gonna stop by tomorrow!

I didn't realize there was a legit walk-off.

See you then. Ill be around until 430.

Cormier-Magness is great if you're looking for a big slab climb. The 5.6 sections are well protected by Whitehorse standards (20-30ft between bolts?) the upper easier sections are run out, but you would have to throw yourself down to really fall on those parts. It goes fast.. Mostly bolts and bolt and tree anchors.

Endeavor is a great adventure style climb. The walk off to the trail at the top involves a lot of thrashing and 4th class scrambling but it's worth it for the view. Bring some beet for the top. The first three pitches (usually combined into two) have a few PG sections maybe, but it's super fun climbing. The upper two pitches are really cool. Fairly easy, but cool rock and a great easy crack.

Whitney-Gilman is a lot to bite off for a new 5.7 leader.. Not much margin but it's doable if you avoid the harder variations and aren't freaked out by exposure.

Edit: and don't forget Thin Air! Just get there early.

2nd pitch of endevor is pretty spicy post rock fall.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:2nd pitch of endevor is pretty spicy post rock fall.

I had never done it before the rockfall and have done it a few times now. Luke I think you could handle it.

Awesome. Thanks everybody. I think corner magness is the way to go, perhaps with a bit of the 5.6/7 p6 variation.

lukeweiss wrote:Awesome. Thanks everybody. I think corner magness is the way to go, perhaps with a bit of the 5.6/7 p6 variation.

I love Cormier-Magness, mellow, but still fun.

Definitely check out the variations... the hard spots have bolts right where you want them.

I know it doesn't fit your credentials, but Longstack usually dries really fast (or so I'm told).

If you're going out to do a route on Whitehorse on Saturday - bring sun screen and water! You'll bake on those slabs on a hot day.