Tetons in early June?/ Looking for partner

Hello everyone!

I'm looking for advice on climbs that would be doable in a day in early June (June 7th to be exact). I'll be on geology field camp but we have a free day in the Tetons and I'd like to get some climbing in. I was hoping to possibly do the Grand (via owen-Spalding route) if I could find a partner, but it seems like the conditions are still too snowy/icy in June. As for experience, I'm a ~5.11/12 climber and have experience with both trad and multipitch climbing, and am comfortable leading trad up to ~5.9 and multipitch systems (climbed Epinepherine in Red Rocks this past spring). I am unfortunately lacking in Alpine experience, although I've done a good bit of backpacking, did one 14er and seem to acclimate fairly well.

That being said, are there any good recommendations for climbs that could be done in a day at my skill level? I have all my own gear, with the exception of ice gear. Is ice gear necessary that time of year?

Thanks for your input guys, hoping to find something suited to my skill level!

Early June is pretty snowy, and having a single day limits your weather flexibility. All the higher peaks will involve lots of snow travel and solid alpine skills (the OS stays icy into July). Some of the lower, south facing rock routes (Guides Wall, maybe Irenes, etc.) would probably be dry but I'm guessing the descent routes would be steep snow. I'd suggest contacting the Jenny Lake Rangers when you get there, and monitor tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/ for conditions. And then there's always Blacktail Butte, Rodeo Wall and Hoback Shield...

The routes in Death Canyon are all good...There may still be some snow on the approach but the Snaz, Caveat, Aerial Boundaries are worth doing if you have a day...The descent gully may have snow as well but you can rap the Snaz

I would look into doing the Snaz, Open Book, or even Baxters Pinnacle. All pretty moderate trad routes that should be fine to climb by mid may. If you want to sport climb at the local crags, blacktail butte, rodeo wall, the goat cave, and the shield are all within a 30-40 minute drive and already climbing fine.

Ali Beach wrote:I would look into doing the Snaz, Open Book, or even Baxters Pinnacle. All pretty moderate trad routes that should be fine to climb by mid may. If you want to sport climb at the local crags, blacktail butte, rodeo wall, the goat cave, and the shield are all within a 30-40 minute drive and already climbing fine.

Baxter's Pinnacle might be closed for raptor nesting

mountainproject.com/v/baxte…

Thanks for all the replies guys, very helpful. Open Book looks like a climb i'd be interested in, however it seems that it requires doubles in the mid size cams and doubles of some nuts. I Only have a single set of nuts and C4's from 0.3 - 4. Is Open Book doable with that rack? If not, other route suggestions are greatly appreciated. You guys are awesome! Thanks for the input.

http://tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/05/baxters-pinnacle-temporary-closure.html

Christian Black wrote:Open Book looks like a climb i'd be interested in, however it seems that it requires doubles in the mid size cams and doubles of some nuts. I Only have a single set of nuts and C4's from 0.3 - 4. Is Open Book doable with that rack?

Very. Especially for a feller that leads 5.11/5.12.

I did it many moons ago (mid 80's) on a rack of single cams/nuts. Don't recall any issues with not having enough gear.