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Bay Area Cracks. Where are they?

Original Post
dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95

Howdy all. Sometimes we Bay Area folk are relegated to climbing locally because there's rain in the Valley, or snow in Tahoe, or for dozens of other reasons. What's an aspiring crack head such as myself to do?

So far, this is the list I've got compiled...

Mt Diablo: Chouinard Crack, Diagonal Crack, Beach Crack.

Mt St Helena: Bear Crack.

Remillard Park: Finger Crack.


My question: what other crack climbs are there in the Bay Area?

Ben Kraft · · Mammoth · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 99
James T · · Livermore · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 80

^nice

Periodontal Fracture and Dingleberry Crack in Pine Canyon

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

a couple other cracks at St. Helena

Hailstone Crack 9, Hailstone Rock - mostly face climbing though
Bear Fingers 10a/b, Bear Cliff - a good one
Bear Cub Crack 7, Bear Cliff
The Beast 11c, Bear Cliff - short crack section
Bushy Crack 9, Far Side - short crack section
Koka 8, Far Side - some good jams

There are several more trad climbs, but they are not necessarily crack climbs.

Sea Crag as some crack climbs too. There is a great but short 5.8/9 crack through a small roof below the sport wall face.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 186

Planet Granite in SF has a few cracks. A few adjustable ones which get reset?! Sent u a PM

Todd Ulz · · oakland · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 25

could u post (or pm me) a cross street for the crack under the 24? sounds rad but there are tons of overpasses. thanks!

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35

I think you should go for Trauma at the Pinnacles or Psychedelic Tree at the Leap.

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
Max McKee wrote:I think you should go for Trauma at the Pinnacles or Psychedelic Tree at the Leap.

When did the Leap and Pinnacles become the Bay Area???

There was a decent but short crack we TRed awhile back up on Mt. Tam - the name slips my memory.

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
Tapawingo wrote: When did the Leap and Pinnacles become the Bay Area???

I guess my idea of area is larger than others, I don't mind driving 3 or 4 hours for a day trip

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
Max McKee wrote: I guess my idea of area is larger than others, I don't mind driving 3 or 4 hours for a day trip

Most of us don't mind that either but the OP said specifically in the Bay Area for when weather or timing is a factor in places like Yosemite and Tahoe.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257
Max McKee wrote: I guess my sense of entitlement is larger than others, I don't mind driving 3 or 4 hours for a Bay trip

Fixed that for ya!

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
Tapawingo wrote: Most of us don't mind that either but the OP said specifically in the Bay Area for when weather or timing is a factor in places like Yosemite and Tahoe.

I'm sorry, but I would still consider the Pinnacles to be Bay Area, I don't give a damn if I'm technically wrong, that is my opinion. I climb there every weekend, unless I am in Yosemite, Tahoe or the Sierras, and even when it is raining in Monterey or even Soledad, the Pinnacles is almost guaranteed to be dry enough to climb. I believe the guidebook says it's a bay area climber's destination as well, but what hell do I know.

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
Colonel Mustard wrote: Fixed that for ya!

San Francisco is actually just about two hours from here. And I can leave my house and be at the Pinnacles west side parking lot in 45 minutes. Fixed that for ya!

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
Max McKee wrote: San Francisco is actually just about two hours from here. And I can leave my house and be at the Pinnacles west side parking lot in 45 minutes. Fixed that for ya!

Rationalize your opinion how ever you want, not here to argue it. Was just pointing out that your suggestions were not relevant to the op.

Oberman's Crack was the route I was referring to btw.

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

"Bay Area" cracks. San Francisco Bay or Monterey bay.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

Damn, Max, it sounds like you're local everywhere!

As an aside (aka actually addressing the OP question), I can only think of some Castle Rock climbs as having some crack you'd actually want to climb in the Bay Area.

I only recently got to the Bear and it's not the kind of rock where I'd want to be flexing my jams. Same on Tamalpais. Diablo could be peachy on the mitts. Pinnacles: knobaneering only, please.

Gym cracks might really be the best option.

Max McKee · · Monterey, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 35
Colonel Mustard wrote:Damn, Max, it sounds like you're local everywhere!

I wouldn't say I'm local everywhere. I believe the only places I would consider myself a local is in Big Sur and the Pinnacles, everywhere else is just another destination. You're right though about Castle Rock, there are plenty of decent cracks, Pyramid is a good one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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