Petzoldt or Lower Exum

Planning an August trip to the Tetons and I'm going through beta/routes on the Grand.

We're planning on linking either the Lower Exum or the Petzoldt ridge to the Upper Exum.

Which route do you prefer and why??

(We'll be starting the day from the caves campsite.)

Also, if we end up doing the Lower Exum, should we try for the 'Thin Man' variation described in the Ortenburger guide? It looks like it starts at the bottom of the third step and goes all the way up to the base of the Black Face pitch...

I preferred the Lower Exum for the Black Face pitch. On the other hand, if you're there in August, especially on a weekend, the Exum may be crowded, making the Petzold a better choice. Fortunately, you walk right by the start of the first on the way to the second.

Direct petzoldt. The lower exum only has one good pitch on it and the petzoldt has at least two plus the option of climbing over or through the hole in the wall.

Thanks for the input. I'll look harder at Petzoldt.

We'll be there for a full week with the days st aside for the Grand on weekdays.. hoping to get in Irene's Arete as well and then maybe SW Ridge of Symmetry or the Snaz.

If you do the lower exum you have the option of the gold face variation on beautiful golden rock...

ChrisN wrote: hoping to get in Irene's Arete as well and then maybe SW Ridge of Symmetry or the Snaz.

Definitely do Irene's. I haven't done the nearby Open Book, but it is supposed to be good as well; if you're camped out at the Caves, you might be able to do both in a long day. Symmetry is a lot of walking for some so-so climbing, and the Symmetry Couloir is nasty and loose. I've heard nothing but good things about the Snaz.

EB wrote:If you do the lower exum you have the option of the gold face variation on beautiful golden rock...

...with a 5.10- crux and 5.7, 5.8, and 5.9 pitches, a bit of a step up from either the Lower Exum or the Petzoldt.

rgold wrote: ...with a 5.10- crux and 5.7, 5.8, and 5.9 pitches, a bit of a step up from either the Lower Exum or the Petzoldt.

I saw the Gold Face and have heard some positive things about it... although 5.10 trad with a backpack on, in the cold, at altitude is a different ball game than a sunny sport crag.

Are the grades out there in-line with most other places?

Having done both...I like the climbing on the Direct Petzoldt a bit better. Fun route. And climbing over the arch is pretty cool.

Disadvantage of the Petzoldt is where it connects with the upper Exum, you miss the golden staircase pitch on the lower (or standard) Exum, which is a great pitch.

Both great routes. Plan on coming back and gettin' whichever one you didn't do this trip!