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khalifornia
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Apr 26, 2016
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Colorado
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
Grew up climbing at the Gunks in the 90s. Moved away a decade ago but am headed back for the first time since then for a couple days of climbing. Anything change in the past 10 years? Not asking because I'm worried about logistics or beta or anything, really just curious for the sake of nostalgia.
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Marc801 C
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Apr 26, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
john2.71 wrote:* Everyone wears clothes when leading Shockley's. * You are no longer permitted to attempt a route without reading as much insta-beta as possible on your phone. * There are staircases from the carriage road instead of paths. * The rap trees are all dead; don't let that stop you. * That classic route you remember fondly is now a permanent TR with a party of three on it as well. * Now the girls wear the spandex tights. * You can now poop in a toilet. Unless you're past the guide wall. Then nevermind. * The peregrines have been replaced by invasive vultures. * The nears is cleaner. * There are 10-20 times more bolted rap stations, yet the ropes are 10-20 meters longer. * The beer is better, stronger, local and hoppier. * The VW buses in the parking lot have been replaced by Subarus and Audis. * That fixed rigid stem friend is still there. All of that sorta happened more like 20 years ago.
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khalifornia
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Apr 26, 2016
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Colorado
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
Great news about the spandex, John - and thanks for the list!
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Gunks Jesse
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Apr 26, 2016
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Shawangunk Township, NY
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 111
Hey Cotopaxi - did I climb with you at Cojitambo last January? Also - you'll get made fun of if you have shiny gear
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Gail Blauer
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Apr 26, 2016
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Gardiner, NY
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 1,262
john2.71 wrote:* Everyone wears clothes when leading Shockley's. * You are no longer permitted to attempt a route without reading as much insta-beta as possible on your phone. * There are staircases from the carriage road instead of paths. * The rap trees are all dead; don't let that stop you. * That classic route you remember fondly is now a permanent TR with a party of three on it as well. * Now the girls wear the spandex tights. * You can now poop in a toilet. Unless you're past the guide wall. Then nevermind. * The peregrines have been replaced by invasive vultures. * The nears is cleaner. * There are 10-20 times more bolted rap stations, yet the ropes are 10-20 meters longer. * The beer is better, stronger, local and hoppier. * The VW buses in the parking lot have been replaced by Subarus and Audis. * That fixed rigid stem friend is still there. The Best ever.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 27, 2016
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
for some reason i don't remember every 3rd party haveing dogs back in the eightys..
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Christian Fracchia
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Apr 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 80
There are several newish routes like Modern Psychedelic down by Modern Times, and Tough Existence at the Mac Wall. Most notable is the amount of hard R & X headpointing going on. There are more strong climbers from bouldering/gym climbers and with C3s, Aliens, better micro wires many of the really hard and dangerous routes have been repeated. Even several topropes have had seen leads. Everything at the Workout Wall has been led without preplaced gear, including 5 ascents of El Kabong just last year. Jane Fonda's, Techno Stuff, and Future Shock Direct have all seen leads as well.
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Luc-514
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Apr 27, 2016
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 12,535
No camping at the west trapp, slime, road below hairpin and soon MUA. Spring at trashcan overhang is dry. Mountain Bistrot is gone with its positive vibe. Drivers will not pickup hitch-hickers going up the hairpin. My Hero pizza and fat bob's closed, Mexicali Blue is still there (I think they changed name late 90's? ) Rock n snow is still rocking. 87 motel now only lodges roaches.
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khalifornia
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Apr 27, 2016
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Colorado
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
THE SPRING DRIED UP!!??? :(
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Suburban Roadside
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Apr 27, 2016
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Abovetraffic on Hudson
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 2,419
Yes no water that thing "dried up" more than 15 years ago. Is there Still A pin On 'NO GLOW' At the start of the white, groove/ face(3rd pitch) I have a pin with No Glow painted on it. ready to replace the gaffer thats been there since A Raubenhiemer replaced the broken original.(1979)
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Luc-514
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Apr 27, 2016
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 12,535
Gilded Otter menu hasn't changed, Mountain Brauhaus still has a line-up at the door. New AAC camping with WiFi
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Brian
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Apr 27, 2016
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North Kingstown, RI
· Joined Sep 2001
· Points: 799
And...the $3 day pass is now $17.
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Marc801 C
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Apr 27, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Brian wrote:And...the $3 day pass is now $17. Ten years ago - the time the OP mentioned that he left the Gunks - the day pass was ~$13-$15. It hasn't been $3 since the late 70's.
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mbk
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Apr 27, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 0
There was a pin on the No Glow move as recently as 4/24.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 27, 2016
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
I thought it was $2.00 in the early eightys? we still jumped off the carridge road and hid from the litle blue pick up truck. A sixer of Bud was $2.35
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Marc801 C
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Apr 27, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
mbk wrote:There was a pin on the No Glow move as recently as 4/24. It's not that there's a pin there, it's that the pin that's there is ancient.
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