Central CT Bouldering?

I've been scouring the internet looking for some comprehensive info on central CT bouldering. I work in Cheshire and live in Hartford, and would love to find a good "after-work" spot that's not too far out of the way. Guidebooks seem few and far between - I've seen a short PDF on Seven Falls and some info on Hurd State Park on MP. Is there any good info on the areas around Southington and Plainville? What's the status on bouldering at the Bradley/Firewall areas?

I moved here from CO late last summer, and am just getting back into climbing regularly. If anyone with some good local knowledge would be willing to show me around, I'd be happy to buy a beer (or six!).

Kung Fu cave on Rattlesnake Mountain is in the old Fasulo guidebook, but its a HIKE. only legal access in the aforementioned areas are sport/trad/TR at the firewall. the "B" word has been blowing up thanks to social media and is once again under the radar of the NBWD. No guidebooks or anything on those (and other) areas, only tribal knowledge.

Topo Gigio wrote:the "B" word has been blowing up thanks to social media and is once again under the radar of the NBWD.

Funny how that works isnt it? People have gotta know its closed to climbing yet they just have to post pics and videos of themselves trespassing.

There is a bunch of boulders on the backside of East Peak in Meriden, you can see them from I-691. I thought a few of them have been documented, its good rock.

T Roper wrote: Funny how that works isnt it? People have gotta know its closed to climbing yet they just have to post pics and videos of themselves trespassing. There is a bunch of boulders on the backside of East Peak in Meriden, you can see them from I-691. I thought a few of them have been documented, its good rock.

Indeed. it pisses me off. That's why I am reluctant to tell anyone I don't personally know and trust of any of the blocs in CT that aren't documented. CT is a boulderers paradise if you know the right people. Access is a major issue in CT, Browning, and you will find many will be reluctant to show off the wonders of CT in fear of word spreading and people showing up, ultimately ruining what little access there was.

Some of my buddies who grew up in town like to call some of their friends who work for NBWD (and who really don't care about climbing), to just show up and scare out non-locals. they call it "defending access"

Topo Gigio wrote: Access is a major issue in CT, Browning, and you will find many will be reluctant to show off the wonders of CT in fear of word spreading and people showing up, ultimately ruining what little access there was.

That's really too bad - some places an Colorado had there struggles for sure, but it seemed the community there was a bit stronger in regards to the above. In any case, I'll be exploring some boulders in the area, maybe I'll catch you around!

Topo Gigio wrote:Kung Fu cave on Rattlesnake Mountain is in the old Fasulo guidebook, but its a HIKE. only legal access in the aforementioned areas are sport/trad/TR at the firewall. the "B" word has been blowing up thanks to social media and is once again under the radar of the NBWD. No guidebooks or anything on those (and other) areas, only tribal knowledge.

Are you saying Hurd and seven falls no longer have legal access?

Browning Gentry wrote: Are you saying Hurd and seven falls no longer have legal access?

oh, my apologies. Those places are totally fine for climbing. Seven falls is a pretty decent circuit. the rock quality isn't the finest CT has to offer, but there is a fairly decent amount of problems to try (pending on the level of difficulty you climb). Fair warning about 7falls, wear bug repellent as we start to transition into springtime. Ticks-a-plenty in that area

All the bouldering at Hurd should be perfectly legal since it's in a state Park. I used to work at Hurd and not many people seem to visit that Park. you can use the map on Hurds page to easily find all the problems listed on it.

Topo Gigio wrote: oh, my apologies. Those places are totally fine for climbing. Seven falls is a pretty decent circuit. the rock quality isn't the finest CT has to offer, but there is a fairly decent amount of problems to try (pending on the level of difficulty you climb). Fair warning about 7falls, wear bug repellent as we start to transition into springtime. Ticks-a-plenty in that area

I used to climb out at 7 falls all the time when I lived in CT. Something about wandering around solo under the buzz of the powerlines. haha I probably have cancer now.

Anyways there were alot of "classic" problems, but many were dirty with low traffic. Bring tape for sure cuz you'll be flapping. I thought it was a fun place with longer, but not too long walks. And then you can go drinking at Eli Cannon's or harbor park (if it's still there).

I walked around with that wesleyan climbing club PDF for years, but I remember having a version with pictures. It was much longer than what is online now.

Browning Gentry wrote:I've been scouring the internet looking for some comprehensive info on central CT bouldering. I work in Cheshire and live in Hartford, and would love to find a good "after-work" spot that's not too far out of the way. Guidebooks seem few and far between - I've seen a short PDF on Seven Falls and some info on Hurd State Park on MP. Is there any good info on the areas around Southington and Plainville? What's the status on bouldering at the Bradley/Firewall areas? I moved here from CO late last summer, and am just getting back into climbing regularly. If anyone with some good local knowledge would be willing to show me around, I'd be happy to buy a beer (or six!).

Hey there.

About a decade ago I spent a lot of time at 7 falls. There's an ok amount of rock there, but as others have said, most of the stuff outside of bible rock and the pancake boulder is very sharp.

At the time I wasn't climbing very hard, but I remember most of the problems being somewhere between v0 and v5. If that's your range, it's worth a trip out. I'm not aware of much in the harder grades, maybe someone else can chime in.

Anything on NBWD property is sadly closed.

There are a number of boulders scattered at the base of Ragged, and further down the hill, which isn't too far out of the way for you in Southington. They're not documented, they're small, but are fun and going out on your own to check them out is a bit of an adventure itself. Best done before the tree cover is back.

The same can be said for boulders/bouldering at the base of Pinnacle.

Really the best thing to do in CT is hike around and search for boulders. Access is a tough one around here, keeping places on the DL is a norm especially in central CT. One can put the puzzle together from searches on social media/internet.

If you have time to drive the best places IMO in the state are all around Chatfield on the gneiss which is well documented on this site. I would go there 99 times to the one time I hit up Seven Falls and really its not too far from Cheshire.

The new stuff that CZD posted for West Rock looks decent and is really close to Cheshire. Frankenrock is near there too.

Or just stop in to Cathole and solo TR some hard shit.

I found Frankenrock to be a fun little spot. If I were local, I could see making that into a good workout spot with many variations, eliminates, and linkups...

Joe M. wrote:I found Frankenrock to be a fun little spot. If I were local, I could see making that into a good workout spot with many variations, eliminates, and linkups...

Too bad CT doesnt have a few more of those erratics sitting around on the tops of hills. Even the landings are good which is kinda hard to find around here.

Thanks all for the advice - I'll do a little exploring and see if I can't conjure up some more local knowledge in person!