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Finger Crack aficionado want to teach me the ropes at Berkeley IW?

Original Post
dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95

Well, the title should say it all. Any interest in going over finger stacks and ring locks with a budding crack addict at the sweet finger crack in Berkeley Iron Works?

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 147

Just wait around till someone cruises up it, and ask them for advice!

I can only get about 1/3 of it... Most people I talk to say it is 5.11+/5.12-, so maybe not the absolute best place to learn the technique. I mostly learned on Rawhide at the Grotto; an awesome, sustained 5.10+ crack.

Todd Ulz · · oakland · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 25

I've been skipping the overhang and trying to work the top, and using foot chips until I get the fingers dialed. it's hard!!

dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95
Ben Horowitz wrote:Just wait around till someone cruises up it, and ask them for advice! I can only get about 1/3 of it... Most people I talk to say it is 5.11+/5.12-, so maybe not the absolute best place to learn the technique. I mostly learned on Rawhide at the Grotto; an awesome, sustained 5.10+ crack.

Fair advice.

The person who taught me how to hand jam said the jam crack went at 5.6, the fist at 5.8, and the fingers at 5.10... Regardless consensus is that the fingers are 10+ or more.

I'll just bug whoever is romping up the wall next time I'm there!

Also, thanks for pointing me to Rawhide.

EDIT: Ben I just realized you were partnered with the girl who got her hair caught in the ATC rapping down Royal Arches!

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 147

Dylan: Its true! She isn't too scarred from the experience fortunately; still go climbing with her every few weekends.

I would say that those ratings are a pretty crazy sandbag. I would say... 5.9, 5.10, 5.11+ personally.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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