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Crags with easy approaches

Original Post
alan carne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

I have a knee injury which hasn't improved in 8 months and looks like it may become a permanent disability. This limits what I can climb, but even more so it limits crags I can walk to. The most I can manage would be about a 10 min walk for "normal" people. Preferably without scrambling, loose scree etc. Flatter is better!

So I am looking for ideas for crags I can get to. In particular this is for a 3 month trip to Western USA, from early march to late may. Provisional plan is start at J Tree, move on to Red Rocks and maybe Utah, then come back over to North Cal later in the trip.

I don't boulder, but any style of climbing - trad or sport, single or multi-pitch. (Multi-pitch routes MUST have the possibility of abseil descents - I can't do walk-offs.) Any grade from 5.6 to 10a.

Very grateful for any suggestions........

I'm particularly interested in the Tahoe area (Donner summit etc), which I've never been to.
Which specific crags might fit my criteria?
And, how early in the season is it possible to climb there?

(PS I'm Kate, posting on Alan's account.)

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,693

Alabama Hills in Lone Pine, approaches are as short as it gets. Red Rock might be tough, a lot of the approaches are 3rd class or quite long.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Your knees will not be happy with you at Red Rock. They may disown you.

Kyle Goupil · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 908

City of Rocks would be a perfect place.

alan carne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
C Brooks wrote:Alabama Hills in Lone Pine, approaches are as short as it gets.

Oh, yes I just remembered about that place and posted it on another thread. I loved it, in spite of the grainy rock.

alan carne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:Your knees will not be happy with you at Red Rock. They may disown you.

Yes, I do know it's not really a good choice and I know I've no chance of getting in to Black Velvet, let alone the Eagle Wall!
But my partner wants to do some sunny sport climbing, and I'm hoping that I
might make it in to something like Johnny Vegas. Also I seem to remember some small crags with short approaches somewhere just before Icebox Canyon - Chicken Eruptus, and some classic 5.9 crack?

Joshua Hunt · · clinton, ut · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Maybe maple if you make it up this way?

alan carne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
Kyle Goupil wrote:City of Rocks would be a perfect place.

Yes, I'm really keen to get there. (Tho maybe not this trip.)
When would be the best time of year?

alan carne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
Joshua Hunt wrote:Maybe maple if you make it up this way?

Thanks. I think I can feel a separate trip to CO/UT coming on some time...

Kyle Goupil · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 908

Spring and Fall are great for the City. Summers are warm but people still climb there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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