Interesting Ice Screw Design from Salewa

Yea, I was thinking that too. The sling appears to slide on the shaft, which should mean a longer screw that is placed and hits rock would be able to perform like a shorter screw in a pinch.

I would still think a 22cm Express would be ideal for Vthreads

Clint White wrote:Yea, I was thinking that too. The sling appears to slide on the shaft, which should mean a longer screw that is placed and hits rock would be able to perform like a shorter screw in a pinch. I would still think a 22cm Express would be ideal for Vthreads

Nah, hottest V-thread screw right now is the Petzl Laser Speed. 30% less weight thanks to the aluminum tube. That's the only alu screw I purchased. I rack it with the cap and one of those mesh thread protectors over the teeth and threads. I typically don't need it till the end of the day (or never) so I prefer to have the softer aluminum tube protected.

Clint White wrote:These look really innovative. Aside from the points above,it looks like: 1- integrated draw cuts down on weight of one biner, but to run a longer sling wouldn't save you any trouble or weight. Still perfect for placements where you dont need longer runners. The cost increase is buffered bu the integrated sling.

Sorry, I didn't mention the integrated draw much, I just noted it as a negative because it's like the CAMP Radion (or Grivel Speedy) that do the same thing and I'm not a fan of those :)

Yes, it functions as a tie off and saves you the trouble of clipping a draw, but it also tends to spin around when you're cranking it in, so you frequently have to flip it into the right position after you've placed it. Net zero in my book.

However, you do have less ice to clear than with an express screw, and more importantly, you can stop cranking whenever you want. No forcing the ice screw one more turn to make the hanger / crank combo end up in the down direction. So maybe if I used them a bit more I'd be a convert.

Also, if any one is interested in buying these, they're only $60 each plus some shipping from trekkinn in Spain. I've bought other stuff from them before and it turned out alright. I'd buy some now if I had the cash.

mtnmandan wrote: Sorry, I didn't mention the integrated draw much, I just noted it as a negative because it's like the CAMP Radion (or Grivel Speedy) that do the same thing and I'm not a fan of those :) Yes, it functions as a tie off and saves you the trouble of clipping a draw, but it also tends to spin around when you're cranking it in, so you frequently have to flip it into the right position after you've placed it. Net zero in my book. However, you do have less ice to clear than with an express screw, and more importantly, you can stop cranking whenever you want. No forcing the ice screw one more turn to make the hanger / crank combo end up in the down direction. So maybe if I used them a bit more I'd be a convert. Also, if any one is interested in buying these, they're only $60 each plus some shipping from trekkinn in Spain. I've bought other stuff from them before and it turned out alright. I'd buy some now if I had the cash.

Thanks Dan! Just what I need an opportunity to buy more screws. :)

Tying off screws has been a thing of the past ever since we started placing screws with a upward angle. The sling or in this case the draw will just slide down the shaft.

rocknice2 wrote:Tying off screws has been a thing of the past ever since we started placing screws with a upward angle. The sling or in this case the draw will just slide down the shaft.

I was told by more than one person that tied off screws will break if fallen on. There was some testing that resulted in this?

I'm not sure if you CAN break a modern ice screw. Yes they'll pull out of the ice, the shaft will bend, maybe even fold the shaft over 90°. But actually break????

So BITD when screws were placed at a downward angle a tie-off somehow made sense. Now that we place them at an upwards angle it doesn't make sense at all. The sling just slides down towards the hanger.

I can't remember where I saw it but I recall a study that showed that an upward placed screw with 1-2" sticking out was stronger than a downward tie-off.

Now there are ways to make tie-offs stronger but it requires 2+ screws and getting the sling adjustments correct.

I've been playing with them for close to two years now. Seen them go through some slight changes as well, but I think they are great to have a few in the quiver.

I don't think I would use a full rack of them when I am strictly in Ice World, but when I am in Ski world that is not expedition related I like having 1 or 2 for my Glacier Quiver ski kit.

If you have not placed one, I don't think anything on the market starts as easy as these.

My 2 worthless cents. I live in France though so we see most everything that comes to the states a year or 2 prior in the climbing world and as far as ski gear some times 2 years or more.