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What route is this on Looking Glass?

Original Post
photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

I was climbing Hyperbola with a friend today and decided to walk around further to the right (towards sun wall) since neither of us had been over there before. Not too far to the right of Hyperbola we saw this dihedral that had some bolts right on the face. It looks like it would be a good and potentially thin aid line. Looks like small fingers towards the bottom but it looks like it thins out considerably higher up. I was just wondering if anyone knew what this line was called, what the free rating was and if it is a line that gets aided much. Thanks for the help.



Bryan Haslam · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 71

It's Electric Kool-aid Acid Test.... C2. Excellent aid or 5:12e free. Do it.

photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

Awesome, been looking for some good aid practice. As soon as I saw it I thought, damn that would be a good aid line. Thanks for the help

photocodo

Bryan Haslam · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 71

It's excellent clean aid climbing. No nailing. Strangely, the crack contracts and expands so that it has squashed nuts just during the time it takes to lead the pitch. I once had two pieces get stuck, a nut then a loweball. Impossible to retrieve. Came back the following day and they were both on the ground, the loweball with a pulverized cone of granite on it. The nut looked like a piece of chewing gum.

photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

Any other gear beta? Looks like RPs might come in handy. Any need for hooks? Or is it just small nuts? Im 230lbs and hate using micros and since this has bolts it looks like a good place to get my tiny nut fix (pun intended).

Chris Watford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 11

Cam hooks

Parker Kempf · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

at least a single set (though more is better) of brassies
i also used doubles in the 000/black alien range.
the second pitch is now just a bolt ladder (new bolts as of 2013) and a 5.9 section

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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