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Found: locking carabiner on rap chains at Lover's Leap (Morrison, CO)

Original Post
Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230

Normally I wouldn't bother posting about a carabiner, but I am very curious why you would attach a locker to rap chains? First off, if you need to bail, why not use an old non-locking carabiner (ideally with the gate taped shut); secondly, when a rap anchor is available, why not do what everyone else does and thread your rope through the lowest links of the rap chains (rather than threading a locker through those links and then rapping off the biner)?

In any case, I'd be happy to return your locker.

Mark D · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 40

If it was at the chains in the cave area just below the last pitch, I recall not being able to fit my rope through those chains. Everybody has different tolerance levels when their lives are on the line, so while you are okay with a single old non-locking carabiner, someone else may not be. At any rate, you got a free locker out of it, so I'm not
Sure why you would be upset.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

You shouldn't be rapping from the chains in the cave, FYI (barring an emergency). There is a designated rap route west of the main line that won't have you rapping over anybody's head while climbing.

Three raps to the ground, just west of the summit of the main line, on a slab underneath the tree.

Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 851

this is all very disturbing

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230
Mark Derham wrote:If it was at the chains in the cave area just below the last pitch, I recall not being able to fit my rope through those chains. Everybody has different tolerance levels when their lives are on the line, so while you are okay with a single old non-locking carabiner, someone else may not be. At any rate, you got a free locker out of it, so I'm not Sure why you would be upset.

The locker was on the top chains of the designated rap route west of the main line. The other (two) sets of anchor chains were clear. I assume all the chain links were about the same size, so I am simply very curious why the party ahead of us apparently chose to rap off of a locker rather than the chains. My best theory is that they were worried about reducing friction when pulling their rope, due to a bit of sloping ground at the top. Or perhaps they wanted to spark a silly thread on MP . . .

By the way, a couple of comments about your response: First, I have no idea how you could conclude from anything I said in my post that I was upset. Nope, not even a little bit, just curious. Second, I am now curious about something else: I believe risk management is an essential part of climbing, and I consider myself to be a very risk-averse climber; for example, I will back up an old rap ring with a quick link. However, I have absolutely no qualms about rapping off a "single old non-locking biner" -- as long as the gate is taped shut. I checked my biners, and they are all rated to at least 23kN, so I don't understand why you or anyone else would feel that they are risking their lives by rapping off a biner (which subjects the biner to, what, a few kN at most?). Granted, redundancy is critical in most aspects of climbing, but I have never heard of a biner failure when weighted on a rap, have you?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Maybe the locker in question was on the end of PAS or sling? Maybe the person rapped off and left part of their tether? I've never heard of anything being left anything behind at a rap station like ice tools, a backpack, a freshly packed bowl and lighter, a sling with cams and draws etc..

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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