Chamonix May 2-May15

I had a trip planned to the Alaska Range in early May that just fell through due to my climbing partner getting injured. I was going to be heading to France later in May to visit family and I thought why not get some climbing in while I am there. My initial thought is to head to Chamonix during the first part of May and I am searching for someone to climb with while I am there. I have visited Chamonix a couple of times in the past, but don't know the Mont Blanc range well enough to have specific routes in mind. The only goal I have right now would be to attempt a climb of Mont Blanc. My thoughts were to do some snow and ice climbs and possibly some ski/snowboard descents in the area as well, but I am up for any type of climbing within my skill range. I am happy to discuss my climbing background and skill set in greater detail should anyone be interested in climbing with me. Any leads, advice, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

JP Zamarron

How's it going. Honestly can't offer much in terms of advice on French climbs but if you have gear and are looking for a lead belay etc maybe we can work something out. Visiting from the states and itching to get on some rock.
Robert

Hi Robert,
I am doing well, thanks for asking just busy trying to plan for this trip on short notice. Thanks for the response and offer. I would definitely be up for meeting up and getting on some rock while we are there. I have to be honest that most of my training this winter has been for snow climbing/mountaineering and not so much for rock climbing. However, I have still been going regularly to the rock climbing gym here in Juneau. I feel I am in decent rock climbing shape. I haven't been leading in the gym much, mostly top-roping. My understanding of the rock climbing in Europe is that it is predominantly sport climbing. For rock gear I have a 70 meter rope and and a rack of 12 quickdraws as well as a basic trad climbing kit. I would feel comfortable leading 5.9 sport to start off and see how it goes with the possibility to lead some more difficult climbs. Not sure how many rock climbs there are in that grade range around Chamonix. I ordered the Francois Damilano guidebooks, and they should arrived early this week. Hopefully, they will help me get better acquainted with the climbing in the Chamonix area. Let's stay in touch and see what we can make happen. I hope that all is well with you.

Hey Robert,
A quick update for you. I fly into Geneva on the 2nd and should arrive in Chamonix that afternoon. I plan on sticking around till the 15th or so. What rock gear were you planning on bringing?

JP,

Unfortunately the only gear I have with me is a harness, belay device and shoes. Hopefully that isn't too much of an issue. Have you come across any climbs you might like to try? As of now I and still trying to coordinate my schedule for next week so lets keep in touch and see how the plans develop.

Robert

Hey Robert,
That is good to know. I just wanted to see exactly what you had as I am putting together my packing list. I will see how everything fits, given that I am also bringing gear for mountaineering in the range. At this point I don't think it should be a problem. As for my research, I got a copy of the snow, ice, and mixed guidebook for the Mont Blanc range, but it only hints at some of the rock climbing in the area, which is mostly Alpine rock climbing. The one reference that I came across mentioned the "superb rock routes" in L'Envers Des Aiguilles. Otherwise I have not yet had a chance to research much in the way of rock climbing. I am not sure if you have seen this site, but I just came across it. This web page seems to do a good job of providing a decent overview of some of the crags accessible in the valley.

chamonix.net/english/mounta…

I am taking a class this weekend, but I should have some more time starting Sunday night to research. Also I was able to have my US cell phone set up to receive calls internationally so my number is 1-603-370-1486. I will stay in touch and proceed from there. Getting Excited!

JP

JP,

What days would you be free to climb while here?

RB

Hey Robert,
I have no set plans while I will be in Chamonix, but the focus of my visit will be to get out and climb as much as possible. My main goal is to attempt an ascent of Mont Blanc. I am very excited about the prospect of doing some rock climbing. I also saw that one of the ski areas is going to be open until the seventh so I thought of hitting the slopes one day and I am considering taking a day trip to Zermatt and Interlaken to see the Matterhorn and the Eiger. Again, I have no set plans and I am going to play the weather game for the attempt on Mont Blanc. If any of these other trips interest you at all, you would be more than welcome to join me. Right now I am planning on staying at a campground in Les Bossons called Camping Les Deux Glaciers. As I mentioned in my last e-mail I will have my phone and access to the internet.

JP

JP,
A trip over to Zermatt sounds great, I tried to get over there a few years back with no success. Anyways, at this point I am trying to find a ride to Chamonix from the Lyon area using a ride share service. So everything unfortunately hinges on this. It may not be too much of a problem I just have to plan it well and be able to get to Paris after climbing. Wanted to make sure you knew my situation. I will update you as soon as possible.

Robert

Robert,
Thank you for the heads up about your travel plans. Best of luck. I know it is not easy to get to Chamonix from Lyon. Just let me know if you aren't going to make and we can go from there. Safe travels and I look forward to meeting you in person.

Hi Robert
I made it to Chamonix yesterday afternoon. I am staying at les deux glaciers in Les Bossons. I have WI-FI access in the campground I hope your travels are going well.

So how is Chamonix? What is the camping situation like? Any sites open? Am looking to head over either monday or tuesday and stay through sunday. Ill keep you updated.

RB

Hey Robert,
Chamonix has been great! The weather has gotten better since I have been here. I got out and enjoyed the closing day of Les Montets ski area. I have linked up with a Kiwi by the name of Sam thanks to Mountain Project. He and I have some mountaineering plans in mind. The campground is pretty good. Quiet, clean, has showers, laundry, and Wi-Fi. Still plenty of spots available. On a walk from the campground to Chamonix there is a great little bolted crag that looks like real fun to mess around on. Keep me posted and I look forward to meeting you here in the next couple of days.

JP

JP,

Im planning on hitching tuesday, would say it is reasonable to plan on arriving in sometime wednesday. Looking forward to getting on some french crags. See you soon.

Robert

Adam,
I will be in France until May 26th, but my time in Chamonix will probably not extend past the 13th or so. I will be headed to Paris afterwards and do plan on trying to get to Fontainebleau for some climbing if you are interested.
Take care,
Robert

JP, have you decided on any specific plans? I got into Lyon last night and am trying to find a way over. Curious as to what days you will be free.

Hi Robert,
Still unsure of my plans. I am meeting with Sam later this afternoon to talk over our plans to climb Mont Blanc. I will write back later with more details. Glad yo hear that you made it to Lyon.

JP,
I will be to Chamonix tomorrow around noon I am guessing. Will get to the camp and look for you there. See ya!
Robert

Hey Robert,
I have had a crazy afternoon in a good way. About a half an hour after I spoke with you I got an invite to join this French guy on a three day alpine climb as a result of a message I left at l'office de haute montagne in Chamonix. It was too good of an opportunity to pass up. I should be back Saturday afternoon/ night. I apologize for the inconvenience this last minute development may have caused you. However, I mentioned that I met Sam from New Zealand in our previous correspondance. He is a really good person and knowledgeable climber. I did mention to him that you were arriving tomorrow. Here is his e-mail address: samhenehan@gmail.com phone number:+011 33 78 67 98 58 1. He knows that I am going on this excursion and I know he would be up for climbing. The weather is supposed to be good for the next three days. I will try and get in touch with him to leave my rope that way you both can use it while I am gone. Otherwise there is supposedly a good bouldering area not far from the campground. Free reference guidebooks for the area are available at l'office de haute montagne.

At the campground take your first left and then walk until a small road to the left. My tent is up on a small crest underneath four trees. It is a green and grey Nemo tent. I was also wondering if I could ask a favor? While I am gone would you mind keeping an eye on my tent? I will have all of my stuff with me except the tent And maybe some non valuables inside. It sure would give me peace of mind knowing someone is keeping tabs on it while I am away. Sorry for any inconvenience this new development in my plans has caused you, I owe you a drink when I get back. Hopefully we will meet Saturday afternoon/night. Safe travels tomorrow.

JP

JP,
No worries, enjoy yourself, there will be plenty for me to do. I cqn keep an eye on your tent for sure. We'll see you in a couple of days.
Robert

JP, are you around today? I am looking to head out tomorrow and will probably be at elevation 1904 cafe most of the day. It is right across from the Gare chamonix mont blanc. See you later if not.
Robert