Timothy.Klein wrote:This post makes me wonder: are there any standardized rules about accepting money for climbing instruction? I would think you would need licenses and stuff to do that, but I don't know. I imagine it is only regulated in federal and state parks, but I'm curious. (I'm not looking to do any informal guiding like that at all, I'm just curious.)
in america, you can do anything for money. if they pay it, you can keep it. if you don't get caught, you can keep doing it. my business suffers quite often, from uninsured, unlicensed people, conducting business without the necessary permits, and are therefore able to underbid those of us that do operate legally and legitimately.
Brendan Blanchard wrote:To address the belaying aspect, I've been told by a guide in the North Conway area: "You get really good at soloing as a guide. Guides are always soloing when they're on the job."
This is true but I don't guide for money. When I guide I take out friends for laughs and fun times. When new people want to learn I want them to be safe belayers first. Like someone else posted, this can be learned easily in a gym before going outside and wasting a ton of time.
What license do you need? Wouldn't an AMGA single-pitch instructor course be enough to take someone out, and legally accept payment? Or would you have to be affiliated with a guide service? Curious as I'm off to take that course this weekend (although I have no intention of guiding).
I agree with the others about the mentorship...find some folks you like at the gym or on MP and have them take you out to Clear Creek and cover their beer and gas. No need to lay cash out.
Be careful about jumping into trad too quick--sport climbing is just an extension of gym climbing, but there is a lot of misinformed trad climbers out there who would be more than happy to teach you the wrong way.
All very good info guys! It seems that there are enough people willing to help me out without requiring a payment. 2 birds! dont upset those who are certified instructors, and Ill have extra money for gear!
Brendan Blanchard wrote:To address the belaying aspect, I've been told by a guide in the North Conway area: "You get really good at soloing as a guide. Guides are always soloing when they're on the job."
I've heard guides from North Conway to Arizona say things like this, and I think it's total macho, self-aggrandizing crap. It takes me ten to fifteen minutes to teach my clients how to lead belay, and generally it takes one to two pitches for them to stop short roping me and give a smooth lower. If I'm sketched out I'll give them a grigri or have them use a backup belayer, or both. Are most guides, including myself, going to fall on that 5.7 the twentieth time we've climbed it? No, but that's not the point. Guides should be instructors, not too reckless and lazy to teach a simple skill. Anyhow, good luck to the OP!