Evolv Astroman???

Well, I don't have the Evolv Astroman's, but a buddy of mine swears by the evolv rubber and I have two pairs of shoes that need to be resoled + their "Yosemite Bum Resole" is cheaper than the other resolers I use and have a faster turnaround time. Just hoping it is as good as the Five Ten rubber I have been using.

Coppolo wrote:I bought a pair. Love them. I wanted a super stiff hightop. I have mortons toe and couldn't the sizing right on the TC Pros. I wear 12 street and bought 12 in astroman for an all day, flat-toed crack fit. My review (after 8 pitches in lumpy): - by far the stiffest shoe I've ever worn (my "tight" shoes are miuras) they feel as stiff as the board lasted boreal ballet golds (another shoe I courted) - they edge excellently all over the sole....but you definitely need to see the hold, you can't feel a thing. -they smear well enough for me to not notice any difference from the miuras....I'm sure if you've worn supermocs these smear horribly. -they are fantastic in the cracks. Smallest I've been in with them is tight hands. Where I really noticed the benefit of that stiffness most is in lumpy water grooves and incipient cracks. I could ratchet in a groove and feel really solid, like it was (almost) a splitter. These shoes almost made me feel like I was cheating. -I haven't worn them in finger cracks, I don't think the toe profile is low enough. I'll try it and tell you all how much I flail. -Durability is solid, the leather is really thick and the laces are set back from the toe so they don't get hammered jam after jam. -The tongue....it lets in a lot of debris on walk offs. I've never worn evolv rubber, I'm impressed with it. That being said, I am looking forward to wearing them out and having RocknResole put C4 on them. OVERALL: A great all day trad/crack shoe alternative to the TC Pro. If the TC Pro last doesn't work for your foot shape, or you want to save 30 bucks, the astroman is a super comfy, super stiff, super durable winner.

I hope I agree! I also wear a 12 and I'm trying on a pair in the same size tonight when I get off work. Have a brand new pair of TC pros (in a 46) I might return because the toe box is still a little tight and I also have mortons toe. I'm also picking up a pair of super moccs. Then I'll have 3 pairs of shoes including the katana laces, I think that rounds out nicely for different styles of climbing.

Just tried a pair on at bentgate in a 12. All around much better fit and a lot more comfortable than the TC pros I bought from them last week in a 46. Returned the TC pros and kept the Evolv's. Taking them to red rocks for a week next week, if I remember I'll make a write up.

Comparing them they look and feel like they're a lot better made, the sole is WAY thicker which I'm sure will remove some sensitivity but I didn't think TC pros were very good in that category either. The toe box is wider, therefore a lot more comfortable. I wear a 12 in street shoes and also have a slight mortons toes for anyone else looking. I can definitely see getting them resoled with some stealth rubber but we'll see how the evolv stuff does.

Weston L wrote:Well, I don't have the Evolv Astroman's, but a buddy of mine swears by the evolv rubber and I have two pairs of shoes that need to be resoled + their "Yosemite Bum Resole" is cheaper than the other resolers I use and have a faster turnaround time. Just hoping it is as good as the Five Ten rubber I have been using.

It's not bad. I don't get resoles with it anymore though. I miss the Yose Bum deals though!

Any updates on these? Would you wear these on routes at your limit?

Yes. I Climbed a 12.A slab in them about a month ago over here in Korea. For slab 12.A is the hardest grade I have climbed. I have climbed up to 12.C in the gym with them on some really overhung stuff as well. I pretty much always climb in them because of how comfortable they are which is something really hard for me to find in a shoe due to a nasty mountain biking accident that left my ankle/achilles tendon area all scared up. After they break in(about 1 month of 4-5X a week climbing) they are awesome for just about everything. I sized them to fit where my big toe is completely flat and my small toes are just barely curled. You can literally put these shoe son and not take them off for the entire day and have little to no foot discomfort. The longest time I have worn them was 6 hours straight on a 10.C ridge route that had everything from splitter cracks that turned into slabs to bulgy overhanging off widthy weirdness and at no point felt the shoe held me back in any way.

1UP:

How did you size your astromans? Street shoe, +/-???

sweagan wrote:1UP: How did you size your astromans? Street shoe, +/-???

doesnt wilsons have em in stock (I thought I saw em on the wall in december)? you could just go try a pair on?

Not in a 13. No store ever carries a 13. I hate my huge feet. I'm so ugly.

sweagan wrote:Not in a 13. No store ever carries a 13. I hate my huge feet. I'm so ugly.

ahhh, they wont order you a pair to check out? (I dont know what their policy is on trying stuff on)

Big feet is definitely ugly man, you should get that looked at.

I went with street shoe size. I don't feel like they'd hold me back on pretty much anything once you get used to the thicker sole and trusting them.

I went with street size as well for an all day type shoe. I really like the shoe for trad specific climbing.

Fukc it, I found a new pair of TC Pros on Ebay for $75 including shipping. Too bad I don't actually have any extra money right now, but come on baby I had to buy them for that price, okay I'll sleep on the couch. You want me to sell stuff? Like what? I need a surfboard in Bishop, I might go to the beach in the next 10 years!!! My other 50 pair of climbing shoes??? But they need to get resoled, which I can't afford cause I just bought a new pair TC pros. God dammit, I guess I'll go to the truck stop for a few hours, I should get close to $75 by the end of the week. . .

sweagan wrote:Fukc it, I found a new pair of TC Pros on Ebay for $75 including shipping. Too bad I don't actually have any extra money right now, but come on baby I had to buy them for that price, okay I'll sleep on the couch. You want me to sell stuff? Like what? I need a surfboard in Bishop, I might go to the beach in the next 10 years!!! My other 50 pair of climbing shoes??? But they need to get resoled, which I can't afford cause I just bought a new pair TC pros. God dammit, I guess I'll go to the truck stop for a few hours, I should get close to $75 by the end of the week. . .

haha, atta boy. you got a pretty mouth.

Like the others said I went with street shoe size. One thing I forgot to mention, I don't lace the top lace hole's. They kind of restrict your movement a little bit if you do. This might just be a personal thing YMMV.

I finally had the opportunity to try the Astroman in a 13, they are tighter than my bouldering shoes!!!

Thank god I found the TC Pros for so cheap, but I still hope that they stretch 1/2 a size or so.

just ordered a pair in 13 (my street shoe size is 14). hopefully they aren't excruciatingly painful, that would be really lame.

Good luck, my toes were all knuckled in a 13 and I wear a 13 in almost all street shoes (exception to scarpa zens which are still a touch tight in a 48/14).

I'm betting that they stretch a little bit, 1/2 size for a leather shoe is typical, although these are lined.

mine were painfully tight the first few days I wore them. Now they fit perfectly. size them fairly tight, so they hurt after maybe 5 or 10 minutes of just having them on your feet (no climbing). that's how mine were

As a guy who has a lot of evolv shoes, just let me say this once more -

Don't size down your evolvs.

These are made in the US, sized in the US shoes. They make them to fit the way they should without a ton of guessing. I wear the following in evolv:

Defy - 11.5
Geshido - 12
Shaman - 12
Astroman - 12
Pontas - 11.5

In other shoes:
Running Shoes - 12
Street shoes - 11.5/12
(don't wear them anymore, but) all La Sportiva - 10-10.5

As far as stretch on the Astroman, I've found that they'll stretch a bit. They are leather, unlike most evolvs. If you're going to size down, go at most 1/2 size down from your street shoes.