Roger's Rock. Pre season info and a question

CaptainMo wrote: Ben - I think your response is pretty typical of why the bolting topic becomes overly exaggerated. The first and main point of my post was to ask about any projects and open undone lines on rogers (which I have visited several times now, have you?) and if adding bolts was allowed in developing new lines. You somehow turned that into a perception that I was intending to take a trip up there to bolt a sport route and even over someone's existing route... wtf dude... give a guy a little more credit. And for your reference CT is a traditional area with a handful of NEW mixed routes with a few NEW sport routes, pretty much exactly like the daks. So if you want to try to make comparisons it's helpful to actually have visit and climbed in the states (and the persons routes) you are trying to compare or degrade. Your pretty much batting 0 with this whole comment. May I suggest doing a little less assuming in the future. When you do actually visit Rogers you'll see there are plenty of bolts on established lines.

Maybe you took a little too much offense to my post. I just thought of the slab (CP) being bolted for a second and it made me sick! Never been to Rogers Rock yet, but I know there are bolts on that slab from some pics I've seen.

That's alright with me, as I don't climb there that much. That said, I definitely appreciate a good bolt anchor sometimes, like on the p1 anchor of Gamesmanship at Poke O.

I assumed you wouldn't come up and bolt things unnecessarily, and you are doing the right thing by asking here first, which is good. My response must have seemed overly snarky...sorry!

In response to NYClimber: of course people will get hurt! That's part of the fun! I like that Mellor was intentionally vague with his route descriptions (that said, I definitely appreciate the crystal clearness of ADK Rock). I like that Mellor didn't describe the mountain routes like at all. A sense of adventure is what I'm looking for when I climb, so that unknown makes it a lot more fun!

I got defensive when the topic of bolts in CP slab came up. It's such a cruiser, popular route. Such a classic of the area and the runouts make it what it is! I'll admit, they freak me out for sure! But I wouldn't have nearly as good of a time climbing it if I were clipping bolts. The slab is perfect for teaching the leading basics, Italic including Text the head-game part of it. I also know that tons of people solo it, and I'm sure it'd be an eyesore to see some big Fixe bolts when soloing a nice, smooth, monolithic chunk of natural stone!

Well, those italics got me! Aint nobody got time for that!

Ben Brotelho wrote: I just thought of the slab (CP) being bolted for a second and it made me sick!

Amen. I must be getting trolled here.

My bad for getting involved in obscuring some dude's trip report.

Oh shit...Albany holding down the fort for our Northern brethren.

Since the topic of taxes were brought up by NYclimber: what about illegals climbing in NY? God-damn outrage!

Ben Brotelho wrote: Maybe you took a little too much offense to my post. I just thought of the slab (CP) being bolted for a second and it made me sick! Never been to Rogers Rock yet, but I know there are bolts on that slab from some pics I've seen. That's alright with me, as I don't climb there that much. That said, I definitely appreciate a good bolt anchor sometimes, like on the p1 anchor of Gamesmanship at Poke O. I assumed you wouldn't come up and bolt things unnecessarily, and you are doing the right thing by asking here first, which is good. My response must have seemed overly snarky...sorry! In response to NYClimber: of course people will get hurt! That's part of the fun! I like that Mellor was intentionally vague with his route descriptions (that said, I definitely appreciate the crystal clearness of ADK Rock). I like that Mellor didn't describe the mountain routes like at all. A sense of adventure is what I'm looking for when I climb, so that unknown makes it a lot more fun! I got defensive when the topic of bolts in CP slab came up. It's such a cruiser, popular route. Such a classic of the area and the runouts make it what it is! I'll admit, they freak me out for sure! But I wouldn't have nearly as good of a time climbing it if I were clipping bolts. The slab is perfect for teaching the leading basics, Italic including Text the head-game part of it. I also know that tons of people solo it, and I'm sure it'd be an eyesore to see some big Fixe bolts when soloing a nice, smooth, monolithic chunk of natural stone!

It's all good I took 0 personal offence - I mentioning projects and you jump to oh it must be a sport route go look elsewhere when you've never even climbed there. And then you did it again with the CT asusmption. That's all, no beef just trying to clarify because this is what folks do in CT all the time... "oh you want to place a bolt? Well that guy must want to grid sport bolt that classic trad climbing area." When it's just not true in the least bit. It creates extremes when in reality there is little between the people.

Rogers is GREAT you'll absolutely love it if you like slab. Just don't go when it's too warm or if you do bring a heat sink for your brain.

Ummm how did joking around about wishing for some bolts on one pitch manifest into all this. All I said was I get a little scared leading pitch 3 or 4 of Empress, The pitch that has no pro and wish their was a bolt or two. I ended by saying guess I'll have to man up. So instead of taking as a joke Kevin and Ben you guys get on your soap box? Typical MP..

Next time lighten up.

Kirby1013 wrote:So instead of taking as a joke Kevin... get on your soap box? Typical MP.. Next time lighten up.

Huh?

Kirby1013 wrote: So instead of taking as a joke...Ben you guys get on your soap box? Typical MP.. Next time lighten up.

huh?

Does anybody know the number to rock and resole?

Greg Pouliot wrote:Does anybody know the number to rock and resole?

I almost typed the number to Plattsburgh shoe hospital before realized what's really up! Haha..

Ben and Kevin.. What? Where? not me.. couldn't of been..

I feel like the people out west always get some sort of "beer night" going. Maybe we should get some "beer night" going in the East. South Meadows campsite would be perfect for rolling a keg in!!! Or at the base of CP slab...midnight drunk naked solo of Bob's knob?!

Ben Brotelho wrote:I feel like the people out west always get some sort of "beer night" going. Maybe we should get some "beer night" going in the East. South Meadows campsite would be perfect for rolling a keg in!!! Or at the base of CP slab...midnight drunk naked solo of Bob's knob?!

I don't know where South Meadows is, but if you tell me, I'll show up with a few 12 packs and a bottle of moonshine. Hell, I'll show up to CP with the same.

CaptainMo wrote: It's all good I took 0 personal offence - I mentioning projects and you jump to oh it must be a sport route go look elsewhere when you've never even climbed there. And then you did it again with the CT asusmption. That's all, no beef just trying to clarify because this is what folks do in CT all the time... "oh you want to place a bolt? Well that guy must want to grid sport bolt that classic trad climbing area." When it's just not true in the least bit. It creates extremes when in reality there is little between the people. Rogers is GREAT you'll absolutely love it if you like slab. Just don't go when it's too warm or if you do bring a heat sink for your brain.

That's why we carry water to drink Ben and hydrate and swim after the climb! LOL. Plus one gets to work on their tan on a sunny day - which never hurts! :)

Kirby1013 wrote: Ummm how did joking around about wishing for some bolts on one pitch manifest into all this. All I said was I get a little scared leading pitch 3 or 4 of Empress, The pitch that has no pro and wish their was a bolt or two. I ended by saying guess I'll have to man up. So instead of taking as a joke Kevin and Ben you guys get on your soap box? Typical MP.. Next time lighten up.

:) Good points Kirby! I don't think 1 decent bolt on CP would be so outrageous! Jesus - it's a mere bolt. Better to protect someone from getting severely hurt than keep savoring this 'purist' attitude!

We have 'Sport Climbing' all over these days. I was once a 'diehard' Trad climber but recently introduced to sport climbing and found I liked it a lot. And why not? Who wouldn't like solid, safe bolts on a climb and not have to worry about IF they can get a decent piece of pro into something and have to run it out 50 ft!

People worry about defacing the rock up there, etc. Hell - the 'Dacks have suffered more wear and tear on their hiking trails alone versus wear and tear or scarring on the rock!

Ben Brotelho wrote:CaptionMo: We have pretty strict no-bolts ethics most places in the 'Dacks. I can't really speak for the southern region around Lake George, but I know that if CP slab were bolted, there would hell to pay. The 'Dacks are a primarily traditional area...we really don't want it to turn into Connecticut!! If you want to develop some sport lines, please only do it at the already established sport areas, which I am sure someone on this site would be able to point out to you. I also plan on doing little finger this summer, looks awesome!

What's the issue with CT Ben? I think the 'Dacks have for too long been 'over protected' my locals who don't wanna 'share' it with others. Hell - even Mellor admits to that when we have met years ago.

They hate Haas' copy of the ADK Rock guidebook for the very reason that Haas did a great job is CLEARLY describing route descriptions, parking, finding 'starts' to each climb - rather than Mellor's 'method' of sketchy route finding info so one can bushwhack and wander aimlessly with a topo and a compass for hours trying to FIND the start to climbs. He feels that's part of the 'Dacks 'experience.' I don't particularly find that fun. We don't play that kinda 'game' in the Gunks, do we? Mellor or no one else 'owns' the 'Dacks. It belongs to all people, not only from NY but all states to enjoy. It's there for ALL - no one owns it but the State of NY. Not Mellor, Chouinard, Clune or anyone else. Period. That place with be more 'forever wild' than it ever needs to be!
Jesus - let's just let climbers get on it and enjoy it. That's what it's there for - not just to stand and stare at for eons!

Ben Brotelho wrote:I feel like the people out west always get some sort of "beer night" going. Maybe we should get some "beer night" going in the East. South Meadows campsite would be perfect for rolling a keg in!!! Or at the base of CP slab...midnight drunk naked solo of Bob's knob?!

Ever been to the Bivy?

Kirby1013 wrote: Ever been to the Bivy?

Who ME Bill?

Nope. never even heard of it!

Never been to the bivy...I've heard of it though! The great, late Joe Szot's hangout, right?

NYClimber wrote: That place will be more 'forever wild' than it ever needs to be!

Bravo. Excellent troll.

Eric G. wrote: Bravo. Excellent troll.

That and the comparison to the Gunks...ha!