Can I climb the Grand Teton next month? Anyone want to join me?

I'm thinking of heading to Jackson Hole from Golden, CO from April 21st to the 25th to camp out at the Petzold Caves and climb a couple of routes. I'd like to tick off the Middle Teton and do the Exum Direct on the Grand. How are conditions up there? I know the Middle is traditionally a snow climb, but will the Exum Direct be free of snow and ice?

I'm also looking for a ride share and a partner for those days, but I've got some flexibility in scheduling a week before or after those days. Any takers?

Is this real life?

EricSchmidt wrote:Is this real life?

Yeah, not super familiar with the range. I take it that that's a no? What about alpine ice in the range? Or even just snow climbs? I just want to get away from the office and play in the Tetons.

I am not super familiar with the area either but I would think it is common knowledge that a 14,000 ft mountain in a snowy range is not going to be snow free in April.... Perhaps you are not ready for this climb if you have to ask such a basic question?

EricSchmidt wrote:Perhaps you are not ready for this climb if you have to ask such a basic question?

Perhaps I am asking for resources from a web forum so that I can continue to do research to decide if my skills are up to the task at hand. I know a thing or two about 14,000 er's, I've done many in winter and I'm not ruling out the possibility of doing one of the rock routes as a scratchy snow/mixed climb.

(And technically, there's no place in Wyoming that's 14,000 ft above sea level. The Grand is 225 feet shy of that mark)

aed wrote:http://www.tetonrange.com/gtcr/webcam.jpg

Like that, thank you.

EricSchmidt wrote:blah blah blah

Mountain Project wrote: This is also a good winter route as it melts off quickly.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/upper-exum-ridge/105933562

I'm guessing dick will always trump knowledge, eh?

be ready to ski into the lower saddle area. as far as routes Exum can be done year round, maybe deal with some snow on the ledges, be ready for a monster day out in the cold...

Given conditions thus far this year, anyone have predictions on the possible state of the Black Ice Couloir then?

Access will be weird, perhaps skiing, perhaps slogging... climbs are certainly good choices if weather works with you. They'll likely be in winter conditions without winter temps. Afternoon avalanches will be a real concern. What route on MT? Complete XM could be very enjoyable... or not. Again, watch the weather immediately before your trip... low snowpack in valley doesn't translate to upper elevations, where there's lots of snow. Black Ice... guessing here but probably starting to accumulate snow, with warmer temps and warmer snowfall, could still be water ice, however. Crapshoot without a fly-by or other look-see. Ask the Park, might be able to track down a climbing ranger... or avalanche specialist.
If weather's stable there will be lots of people skiing. If weather's been stormy, probably should bail on this plan, or have a Plan B ready to implement. Have a fun safe trip.

Dave Bn wrote: BLAH BLAH BLAH

He asked if the grand will be snow free by April... I told him no, read a little closer next time dickhead.

willeslinger wrote: Perhaps I am asking for resources from a web forum so that I can continue to do research to decide if my skills are up to the task at hand. I know a thing or two about 14,000 er's, I've done many in winter and I'm not ruling out the possibility of doing one of the rock routes as a scratchy snow/mixed climb. (And technically, there's no place in Wyoming that's 14,000 ft above sea level. The Grand is 225 feet shy of that mark)

Good point, only the last 225 feet will have snow because obviously a climb that is 13,500+ feet is just too low to have snow... I was obviously rounding up but thanks for pointing out the painfully obvious.

One more thing...

YER GONNA DIE!!!

Eric...lighten up Clarence.

alpinglow wrote:Eric...lighten up Clarence.

Alpinglow... Stop stalking me and get off my nutz!!