Family Friendly at Lower Mount Lemmon

The title says it!

I am planning on taking my family and another family out climbing on New Years day. We were planning on going to Jacks Canyon, but the weather up there is going to suck on Tuesday. S AZ is going to be much nicer, so Mt Lemmon gets the nod! The only problem is that I haven't climbed there since the mid 90s and don't know where to go on the lower part of the mountain.

Both of us have young kids, so we are looking for a relatively short approach and a nice kid friendly area to hang out in when not climbing. Easy routes are a plus since a few of our group have a limit of 5.7. Leading sport or trad to set up TRs is not an issue.

Any guidance from the Tucson locals would be greatly appreciated!

Look up The Nursery (Mt Lemmon->Bear Canyon->The Nursery). It was developed solely for beginners and kids. I haven't climbed there, but I heard its close to the highway and easy climbing. Should be low enough to not be too cold. Still, bring a few layers to keep warm.

There's always: mountainproject.com/v/jailh…
Or: mountainproject.com/v/hairp…

The best place for kids is almost certainly Hairpin, and specifically the Lefthand Wall. Below the belay area it is essentially a giant sandbox with kid-sized boulders and caves to play in. If one or two parents take turns watching the kids while the others climb above, it could keep the kiddos occupied and having fun for most of the day (digging toys are a great thing to bring along). The downside to this is that the climbing above is not that great - it is a popular area, and has easier climbs, but I've never thought the climbing was too good. Good bouldering there, though, if that is an option, even as a way to pump out at the end of a day of setting up 5.7 TRs for your friends.

Jailhouse might be good, but chilly in the shade, and I don't remember when the walls are shady/sunny, but you might be able to chase sun most of the day. Good range of grades though, from pretty easy to pretty hard.

The first wall at Sun Spots would be pretty good, but the easiest climbs are about 5.9. Once you start moving to the upper areas, the approach is a little tricky and maybe a little unsafe with kids.

Have fun!

Thank you for all the responses!!! How is the approach to the Left-hand wall and the Nursery? Short is great, but am more concerned about flat and easy.

I think Prison Camp is the best option. The climbing is good, there is full sun after 1030 or so at the 2 easy walls, there is easy-moderate climbing, a big sandy area beneath the steep wall (with 11s and 12s - shady this time of year), and the approach is casual. The nursery would be my last choice as the climbing is not that good. Another place that has some good flat spots for kids to play and is in the full sun is the Ruins - steep 25 minute approach though.

The Nursery will be perfect when your kids are learning to climb, but for now it's got the least kid-friendly area to hang out in, and the routes are intended for kids and absolute beginners.

You guys are great! Thanks for all the awesome info. I think we will try Jailhouse!