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tahoe/eastside ice

Original Post
david krivan · · truckee · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Experienced New England ice climber in need of partners to do some ice cragging this winter. Psyched to get out but don't really know where or when. Have all gear.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926

David,

We don't have a ton of ice in CA unfortunately. If you get to know some Tahoe locals, then they can probably help you with finding some relatively obscure stuff. Your best bet though, is to pick up this book:

maximuspress.com/shop/prodd…

Just don't go to Lee Vining on a weekend!!!
Good luck.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Always looking to get out on some ice. I'm down for local ice or road tripping to find some. Didn't climb any last year but was leading WI4 a few years ago. Let me know if you want to get out.

jack s. · · Kamloops, BC · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

I moved to British Columbia, so I certainly won't be going to California to ice climb with you any time soon, but your best bet is Coldstream Canyon right outside of Truckee. The ice is located right on the south side of the canyon and is the only place that it could be located if you check it out on Google Earth. The road up Coldstream Canyon can be a bit heinous, but there is an alternative approach from the ski area (which I have never done). If approaching up the road, I seem to remember that you need to take a right a few miles up the canyon. I think the sign says Coldstream Canyon is to the left, but this takes you to an angry private property owner.

Another option, of course, is to head across Nevada and climb in the Salt Lake area (guidebook = Utah Ice Climbing). Lamoille Canyon a bit south of Elko, Nevada also has better ice than most of California if the conditions are right (you can get the somewhat limited guidebook from Cedar Creek Clothing Company in Elko, the ice is on the last page of the rock guide). Clyde Couilor is also potentially very good in early summer (May to June). The stuff in the Eastern Sierra Ice Guidebook tends to see way too much traffic, but it is a good book to own and use. Hopefully this helps answer the "where" question.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
jack s. wrote:.... Coldstream Canyon can be a bit heinous, but there is an alternative approach from the ski area (which I have never done). ....

Yeah, this is one of the areas that I was suggesting that you will need a local to help you get info. Not that you can't figure it out on your own, but....

Also, there is a section at the back of Mike Carville's rock climbing lake Tahoe book. You may want to pick up a copy of this book and look through it.

Also, I would disagree with Jack S. that the eastern Sierra ice is too busy to be worth it. During a weekday, the climbing at Lee Vining can be fantastic and not nearly as beat out as one would think (way less beat out than the ice in Vail, CO).

jack s. · · Kamloops, BC · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10
J. Albers wrote: Also, I would disagree with Jack S. that the eastern Sierra ice is too busy to be worth it. During a weekday, the climbing at Lee Vining can be fantastic and not nearly as beat out as one would think (way less beat out than the ice in Vail, CO).

I have been pretty spoiled when it comes to ice. Coming from Hyalite, California has very chopped ice, but I suppose this is a matter of perspective. Like I say, the ESI guidebook is still worth owning and using, but the climbs certainly aren't anywhere near my favourite.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
jack s. wrote: I have been pretty spoiled when it comes to ice. Coming from Hyalite, California has very chopped ice, but I suppose this is a matter of perspective.

Yeah, Cody and Hyalite are indeed in their own league, but you get your sticks where you can. Cheers.

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

I'm always looking for partners. I'm in bay area and come up on weekends. Been climbing ice last few season. let me know.
Cheers

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

I am looking for trips as well.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Thinking of taking my ice gear for a long walk on Sunday into Coldstream. I know it's a long shot, but hoping something forms with the three days of cold temps. Anyone interested in joining?

PatCleary · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Complete ice newbie here, but I'm hoping to get a few trips to Tahoe in (between the ski trips). I have my gear (except screws), and I'm more than happy to trade cold belays, cold beers and gas money for experience. I'm located in the North Bay/Santa Rosa area.

Pat

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

Hey pat we can set top ropes in Tahoe. Alos if your totally new I recommend the Sierra Mountain guides ice 101. Really helps you get good skills from the get go.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Anybody want to get out and swing some tools this weekend in/around Tahoe?

david krivan · · truckee · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

weather got cold this week. I think this weekend probably still too early. If it stays cold I might be interested in getting out next weekend.

Yen Kha · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

i'm looking for ice climbing partner(s) in jan for lee vining. anyone climb at lee vining? do you recommend it? anyone interested to go, let me know! I'm also free in februuary too.

Yen Kha · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

i'm also open to ice climbing anywhere in with good ice in the sierras/tahoe area based on the threads i've read.

any great ice guides around the area?

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

Sierra mountain guides

Sam Beeduhl · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 443

I'm in Reno through the 3rd. If anyone wants to get out to cold stream or some other ice between now and then I'm available at 7seven5 3one3 31six4.

Ryan Huetter · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 395

Sierra Mountain Center runs Lee Vining ice trips. Going to be real good after this cold snap!

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I've got Sunday-Thursday off and looking to get out on some ice.

PatCleary · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

I'd had a Tahoe ice climbing trip planned for next weekend, but my partner's sick (another's a maybe). I've been itching to take my tools out, anyone interested in heading out? I'd initially been planning on a trip to Eagle lake, but I'm game for anything.

This will be my first time out on ice, so I'm looking to top rope stuff for now (or follow). Have all my own gear except screws.

Patrick

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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