Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13

You think CCC will be climbable by the weekend or no? Any Idea on Deadbolt? I bet its not touching yet either.

Anyone have any info on Provo Canyon? Millers Thriller in? Or Upper Falls? I am sure the Apron is thickening up nicely... Just have done so many laps on it over the last few years its boring to me now lol!

Has anyone been up to Timp above Aspen grove since this cold weather began? How does the east face of Roberts look? Does anyone have any beta on any other Alpine routes in that vicinity?

I have never climbed any of the routes up South Fork above Vivian park. Are they fun? Does anyone have any beta on them?

I'm in Provo for a week for work. I'll be available Sunday the 16th. I can bring my tools/pons but not a rope or rack. No idea what current conditions are there but if anyone is interested let me know...

If I don't go skiing I might be up for something Sunday. I got a rack and a rope.

Bridal Veil WI conditions 12/12/12 @ 8am

I top roped laps on the apron of stairway this afternoon. It was pretty wet and not really thick enough to protect with 16 cm screws. There was a lot of water running behind the ice as well. It looks like temps will be dropping a bit over the next few days. The question is whether it will be enough to build ice or just to maintain.

We're gonna be able to make a time lapse video of the pricicle by the end of the season. It certainly looks better than the last time I was there.

I haven't seen a piece of trash get this much attention since Snooki got pregnant

notmyname wrote:I haven't seen a piece of trash get this much attention since Snooki got pregnant

WIN!

Anybody interested in climbing ice tomorrow in provo canyon? Shoot me an email gafoto@gmail.com.

notmyname wrote:I haven't seen a piece of trash get this much attention since Snooki got pregnant

Well I passed up the opportunity to tap Snooki (read the dirtcicle) on the ass and went on to CCC in Joe's - the first pitch is in. The pillar has not touched down ant the top looks to be worse connected than I remember.

Chadneusmeyer: Did you get a look at the deadbolt?

Forecast for Joes is below freezing all week with with snow throughout. Id expect many routes to be in with the temps I just saw. Does anyone else think so?

Check out the forecast

weather.com/weather/tenday/…

Cheers,

Here's another name we've used for 20+ yrs for the "dirtcicle" - the "Mudcicle". But late Jan this yr, it was blue-white, fat & dead vertical top to bottom. Best time to do it is @ night. But don't dismiss this general area; higher up above the Mudcicle is a fair amount of Joe's-type ice. In fact, lots of "secret ice" (up to WI4+ & 2-3 pitches all over) higher up along the mountain side. Well worth a day finding it & a week to climb it. But don't tell anyone.

Any updates on the Ice in Provo Canyon? Anyone attempt Stairway on the weekend, or did the rain on Friday kill it again? Thanks.

Nathaniel Holt wrote:Chadneusmeyer: Did you get a look at the deadbolt?

Just from the road...The river was flowing and I didn't want to cross it and do the hike. It looked big enough to be touching down. That was all I could really see.

This morning I went and did pitch 1 and the Ramp on the GWI.

I didn't swing a tool once, slung trees and bushes on the left side of pitch 1, and no pro on the ramp. Furthermore, I didn't need a shower when I got to the office (breaking through the crud on the ramp took care of that).

What's worse, we weren't the first ones up there. There was one set of tracks that looked a couple of days old. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.

Spent some time up in Joe's today. Deadbolt is a thin, lanky pillar touching down. Climbable, maybe. Highway to Heaven (the bouldery approach to Deadbolt) is pretty much just a hike right now. Went to try my luck at CCC but found it thinned out with all sorts of water running down. Hopefully lower temps this week will firm it back up. What a year.

chadnuesmeyer wrote:. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.

Indeed we are... But forecast shows cold temps in the future... cant be too much longer until we have some thick stuff come in. Esp with this snow.

Matt Selman: What do you anticipate the dead bold will be like later this week with the cold temps and snow? I rather enjoy "Highway to Heaven" when it's in all thick ice. It's like canyoneering ice climbing to get to a fun wall of ice "the deadbolt"

Anyone else been to Joes? I am going Thursday morn-Friday. I have only climbed CCC and the Dead bolt. I loved the dead bolt. Any recommendations on a fun route?

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what it takes to form the complete Deadbolt curtain. I would bet by the end of the week the pillar will be nice and fat, at the very least. And there's enough water to get Highway to Heaven in nice shape, if the temps stay down.

Took all these today 12/19 on my way back from the swell:

Pricecicle

Bridal Veil Falls

Stairway To Heaven

Went to Joe's today and found the Donorcicle starting to make its presence known. The climbing was good.