Sportiva Exum Pros

Komito Boots (PO Box 2106, Estes Park, CO 80517; 970 586 5391) has done a great job resoling my La Sportiva Exums and Boulders with 5.10 dot tread and has even rebuilt a raised heel on one pair.

Dammit. This was one of the best shoes Sportiva made. EVERYONE I knew who had/has a pair LOVED them. I bought a backup pair just in case long ago. Now I'm wishing I bought more as I'm about to bust out the last pair.

The Boulder X is NOT the same shoe AT ALL. It's toe box is narrow and pointy unlike the Exum which fit my fat feet like a dream.

Anyone know how the Ganda fit compares to the Exum? I will NOT be buying the Boulder X.

Sportiva - Get it together.

When I tried the Ganda, it felt like a comfy rock shoe. I could not imagine myself walking any nontrivial distance in it--with or without insole. So, I left the store with a pair of Exums instead... I'm sure it's partly a matter of fit, but the Ganda is very unlike the Exum Pro. Maybe the "hi top" version is different.

brenta wrote:When I tried the Ganda, it felt like a comfy rock shoe. I could not imagine myself walking any nontrivial distance in it--with or without insole. So, I left the store with a pair of Exums instead... I'm sure it's partly a matter of fit, but the Ganda is very unlike the Exum Pro. Maybe the "hi top" version is different.

Makes sense. The Exums, to me, were a souped up trail running shoe. Comfy but a bit more supportive in the sole area (no sharp rock poking through etc). The BIG thing for me was the wide toe box. The boulder x (and ganda it sounds like) have that pointy toe that just KILLS you on a descent.

Anyone try Scarpa? Looks similar and Scarpa and Sportiva have similar lines. Didn't one of Sportiva's designers defect to SCARPA?

Kevin Landolt wrote:Totally different shoe - one was a light, runnable and climbable sneaker, the other is some heavy hot wierd fitting piece of shit boot/shoe hybrid. I used the Exum Pros to combine a trail-run with my easy soloing circuit, something I just wouldn't want to do with those damn BoulderXs. I attempted to do my run/circuit with my Sportiva Fireblades the other day and had to change into a comfy pair of Mythos halfway up a route because they just were cutting it. The BoulderXs have served me well for long approaches with a heavy pack, and long alpine scrambles, but it's a completely different shoe. Also - which shoe would you rather clip to your harness while climbing a route you'll be walking off? No question it would be the Exums.

Spotiva has a couple trail runners with the same last. I wonder if you picked one up and resoled with sticky rubber if that would be a good replacement.

Love my exum pros. I'm going to be careful with them now and only wear when needed.

It looks like Sportiva may have heard your cries, a possible replacement for the Exum's that I love and miss may be here

Anyone try 'em out yet? I am trying to find a really fast, relatively sticky shoe for trail running ridge traverses in the Sierra. Anybody have ideas?

Haha. I am glad this thread made it back to the top. I inquired last fall about this issue and recieved this response from the La Sportiva President. I have tried the shoe on and it is very similar but not exactly like the Exum. I will be getting a pair however. So Andy, I think this would be a perfect shoe for what you are describing and exxactly what I used my Exum's for (although many many other things as well). It was cool that they gave me a timely response to my legitimate concerns..

Thanks for your email. I agree. I love the Exum Ridge. I have about 4 pairs that I rotate through and use for everything from soloing the first, climbing the Diamond, running in the high country, hiking with a heavy pack or just approaching. That shoe is awesome.

Unfortunately, dealers stopped ordering it after 5 years. Therefore, we took that as a sign to redesign it. The new Xplorer, the name is not as cool but it works better internationally, will be here in January 2012. The new shoe has better rubber, better edging capabilities and more protection. The tech sheet is attached. The Overwrap rand technology addresses the issue that the Exum had where it would roll off edges when weighted heavily. The rubber is AMAZING and the fit is sublime. This is a true descendant of the Exum Ridge. All synthetic, highly breathable and very stable.

I have also been using the Raptor in the interim. It has very similar qualities and climbs great.

Thanks for the spirited email and feedback and I apologize for the one year market absence of the perfect synthetic approach shoe.

Sincerely,

I have a pair of Xplorers and have taken them on 4 Sierra alpine routes/approaches so far, in addition to some slab approaches in Eldo (e.g. approach to Ruper). They are stickier and climb cracks better than the Exum Pros. In fact, they climbed so well that I didn't bother to change into climbing shoes when I soloed the E Buttress of Whitney.

Width-wise they are narrower but then have a higher volume in the vertical direction (I can use insoles in them where I couldn't with the Exum Pros). On the downside, the stitching around the top of the toe box came apart from crack climbing so I had to Seam Grip that, but then again I did the same with my Exum Pros.

Thanks for the feedback y'all. I'm divided between the Salewa Firetails, Scarpa Epics, and the Xplorers. Has anyone done any running in the Xplorers? I loved how the Exum's sailed along trails and such, wondering if the Xplorers are light/flexible enough to comfortably run approaches.

Hey Fossana or whomever knows the answer... How's the shock absorption in the heels of the Xplorers?

Chris Miller wrote:Hey Fossana or whomever knows the answer... How's the shock absorption in the heels of the Xplorers?

I have a slightly skewed view since I wear them with insoles, but they are pretty cushy in the heel area.

fossana wrote: I have a slightly skewed view since I wear them with insoles, but they are pretty cushy in the heel area.

Awesome, that's good news. I use insoles too. Thanks.

Boo! Xplorers are only available in sizes 38 and bigger. I wear a 37.

Im on my second paid of xplorers and absolutely love them. I have used them primarily for hiking/approaches and canyoneering. I also have used them some for rock climbing (5.8 and easier). They seem more comfy and supportive than the exum pros and are still lightweight. I size them 1/2 size bigger than both the boulder x and exum. I like the extra rubber around the toe box for climbing and overall durability. I like the lacing system as it allows an insert or heavy pair of socks as well as the ability to crank them down if you are doing more technical terrain. Overall I think they are a big upgrade from the exum's.

Cindy Mitchell wrote:Boo! Xplorers are only available in sizes 38 and bigger. I wear a 37.

I wonder for how long they will make them down to 38 since none of the shops (online or otherwise) bother to carry them smaller than a 41 or 41.5. I've been having to get them directly from La Sportiva.

The Scarpa Epics I ordered just came in. The length is right, but they're way too narrow. It's unfortunate because this is a really nice shoe. If you have a narrow foot and are in the market, check em out. Ordered from Backcountry and they're return policy is awesome, so they're going back Sunday or Monday after climbing. Just ordered the Xplorers, hope they fit cause they look pretty awesome. If only the Ganda's didn't have a retarded price tag on them.

The Gandas run pretty narrow also and there's no way they'd fit an insole for me.

I have a pair of the Scarpa Epics. They are well ventilated, the uppers seems to dry quickly, but seem to retain water a little longer underneath the footbed.

The grip as well as the Sportivas but don't feel as sticky. I don't know how to explain it, they hold well but just don't feel as confident, I'll just have to learn to trust them. They even hold fairly well on slippery rock stream crossings.

I have narrow Sportiva feet, but with a medium weight sock the Epics fit well.

Anybody tried Salewa approach shoes?

Sad to see this thread is 5 yrs old and La Sportiva still hasn't been able to duplicate the perfection that they once had....